MidSouth Shooters SupplyRepackboxLoad DataWideners
Lee PrecisionInline FabricationReloading EverythingRotoMetals2
Titan Reloading
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 21

Thread: Replacing the lube stick - a cautionary tale

  1. #1
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Inland from Seacoast New Hampshire
    Posts
    2,744

    Replacing the lube stick - a cautionary tale

    I just completed a manic run of 2000 H&G #51's and ran them through the heated Star.
    The 51's (Phil Sharpe designed bullet for the original 1930's 357 load) have a VERY large lube groove so I use a fair amount of lube.
    I use Magma lube and have for many years.
    I was at the very tail end of the run and had maybe three or four turns left on the pressure screw assembly so I thought I would add a new lube stick and be ready for the next run - whatever that might be.
    Well, WRONG!
    Unless you are dead out of lube, adding another stick with ANY lube left in the sizer was a nightmare. Trying to get the cap started when it is too high is a frustrating experience. I finally stood up on a chair and put all my weight down on it a got it started.
    The moral of the story? Run out totally THEN add a new stick.
    Life is easier that way.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Martinsburg, WV
    Posts
    3,211
    Why not cut a 1/4 of the stick?
    A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Inland from Seacoast New Hampshire
    Posts
    2,744
    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatch-1 View Post
    Why not cut a 1/4 of the stick?
    Excellent idea.
    That will be the plan moving forward if I do it again.
    However, I think i will just run out completely, reload, and solve all the problems.
    No muss, no fuss...............
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    1,910
    I sometimes pour my homemade lube into a short piece of PVC tube then push out however much I want to replenish the sizer.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    tja6435's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Westcliffe, CO 81252
    Posts
    898
    I use a heat gun to melt the remaining lube down into the bottom of the tube to make room for a fresh stick. But cutting 1/4 off the new stick sounds much more reasonable and quicker
    8500' Wet Mountain Valley, Colorado

  6. #6
    Boolit Master super6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    S.C
    Posts
    558
    Quote Originally Posted by FISH4BUGS View Post
    Excellent idea.
    That will be the plan moving forward if I do it again.
    However, I think i will just run out completely, reload, and solve all the problems.
    No muss, no fuss...............
    I am with Fish4BUGS on this one, I did the same thing he did twice! Will never do it again.
    Give me something to believe in. Poison
    Arosmith What it takes
    A 12 step program

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

    alamogunr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    4,509
    I resembled the OP, ONCE! Never again.
    John
    W.TN

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    metricmonkeywrench's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    1,107
    Having run into the same issue where i had to dig out a 1/4+ stick of lube i took the opportunity to scratch my head (or was it the other end or both ends?) and create a dipstick for my Lyman 450/4500's. the end state goal was to be able to get a positive indication of what the level really is and at what point a full stick could be inserted without any drama. More or less if the level falls within the two lines there is a reasonable amount of confidence i can drop in a new stick and get both the piston and cap back on. The top mark is obviously the point where the piston is bottomed out minus the stack tolerance of the cap and piston. By the math I should be good as the various lube sticks i have on hand were shorter than the available space. I did not take into account the squishifation factor of the lube sticks installed when the piston comes down and smooshes the lube down to fill in around the body and threaded rod the first time..


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Picture1.jpg 
Views:	13 
Size:	44.6 KB 
ID:	310488

    PS- I'm also wafting for one of my Lyman 45s with the original style pistons to run down to see if it will work there as well

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2022
    Location
    MPLS
    Posts
    1,486
    I just cut the lube sticks in half, no problem then...

  10. #10
    Boolit Master super6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    S.C
    Posts
    558
    Quote Originally Posted by metricmonkeywrench View Post
    Having run into the same issue where i had to dig out a 1/4+ stick of lube i took the opportunity to scratch my head (or was it the other end or both ends?) and create a dipstick for my Lyman 450/4500's. the end state goal was to be able to get a positive indication of what the level really is and at what point a full stick could be inserted without any drama. More or less if the level falls within the two lines there is a reasonable amount of confidence i can drop in a new stick and get both the piston and cap back on. The top mark is obviously the point where the piston is bottomed out minus the stack tolerance of the cap and piston. By the math I should be good as the various lube sticks i have on hand were shorter than the available space. I did not take into account the squishifation factor of the lube sticks installed when the piston comes down and smooshes the lube down to fill in around the body and threaded rod the first time..


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Picture1.jpg 
Views:	13 
Size:	44.6 KB 
ID:	310488

    PS- I'm also wafting for one of my Lyman 45s with the original style pistons to run down to see if it will work there as well
    I just let it run out and put a fresh stick in. I avoid the math and all the other stuff that goes with it.LOL
    Give me something to believe in. Poison
    Arosmith What it takes
    A 12 step program

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master

    imashooter2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    7,899
    I’m a melt and pour kind of guy.
    ”We know they are lying, they know they are lying, they know we know they are lying, we know they know we know they are lying, yet they are still lying.” –Aleksandr Isayevich Solzhenitsyn

    My Straight Shooters thread:
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-shooter

    The Pewter Pictures and Hallmarks thread:
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-and-hallmarks

  12. #12
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Inland from Seacoast New Hampshire
    Posts
    2,744
    Quote Originally Posted by super6 View Post
    I just let it run out and put a fresh stick in. I avoid the math and all the other stuff that goes with it.LOL
    ....and thus ends the lesson............as the pastor used to say after his sermon.
    I will run this puppy dry and go from there!
    One lesson is enough for me.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  13. #13
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,484
    For handguns, I melt my pot of lube, then pour it into the sizer.
    For rifles, I take out the die, melt it all out, then put in a stick of Orange magic.

    After all the rifle boolits are done, I melt & pour more home made lube on top of it for the refill.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master AnthonyB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1,380
    Since the drift has started already, how do you like that Magma lube? I have a bunch of it from old trades but have never used it.
    Tony

  15. #15
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Inland from Seacoast New Hampshire
    Posts
    2,744
    Quote Originally Posted by AnthonyB View Post
    Since the drift has started already, how do you like that Magma lube? I have a bunch of it from old trades but have never used it.
    Tony
    That's all I use. That is all I have used for as long as I can remember.
    I am not sure of the composition but I was told it was beeswax and paraffin. The colors mean nothing. They are one formula - period.
    I shoot mostly Keith style SWC bullets (38/357/44) which have a tendency to have lube grooves the size of the Panama Canal. They are a bit smokey but coupled with 231 you can shoot a TON cheap.
    My alloy is 5lbs ww to 1 lb lino. I have never leaded a barrel in any way shape or form.
    I owe a lot of that to the generous lube groove and Magma lube.
    Maybe I am just lucky.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    581
    I don't let mine run out. I just cut to what length I need. As for colors I use mostly one company and the darker the color the more heat it needs. Yellow needs no heat and Orange very little but purple always more. I use blue mostly on 44's and 45's.
    Last edited by 45DUDE; 02-16-2023 at 02:06 PM.

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Switzerland of Ohio
    Posts
    6,314
    Quote Originally Posted by imashooter2 View Post
    I’m a melt and pour kind of guy.
    THIS^^^^ That's how Harry Pope told us to fill lubricators, and who are we to argue? I have a glass 1-cup measure that goes in the microwave. Seconds later it's ready to add JUST the right amount.
    Cognitive Dissident

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy

    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Eastern North Dakota
    Posts
    466
    For a curious mind? How do you know how much to melt and pour? GW

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Switzerland of Ohio
    Posts
    6,314
    Melt more than you need, save the rest for next time. In a Tupperware container to keep it clean.

    (One stick for a Lyman 450 is about half a cup.)
    Cognitive Dissident

  20. #20
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Inland from Seacoast New Hampshire
    Posts
    2,744
    That's the beauty of this site. Many different opinions and ideas.
    I once asked about how to get the pressure assembly out when ready to add a new stick of lube.
    It was a bear trying to get it out.
    Someone suggested coating the bottom washer with lithium grease.
    It makes it far easier to get it out.
    Thanks for all the ideas guys (and maybe even ladies if they are here).
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check