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Thread: NEF .22 hornet

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Wolfdog91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fishoot View Post
    Okay, how about a link to those parts, please?
    Sorry for taking so long to reply
    https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/846090

    I'd also reccomended ordering a new hammer spring because you need to bend the old one out more for it to work properly and depending on yours it might be too old and break. Honestly you could probably just order a spring that perfect from a hardware supplier but I'm not good at all when it comes to measurements
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  2. #22
    Boolit Master Wolfdog91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tunnug View Post
    Yes to what TBG said, I've got a .410 that had a broken transfer bar that's giving me trouble still, new transfer bar drops too soon so hammer barely hits the firing pin, changing to rebounding would solve the problem I believe.
    A broken transfer bar is actually what led me down this route! Their some stuff you can do with modifications to the existing hammer but the thing isn't completely case hardens so att the work you do gets ground off after a few dozen firings. Alot of folks hat the idea of a rebounding hammer because if you drop it while fill cocked it can't save you but honestly walking around with a hammer gun in full cock just goes against basic safety imo. The only time mind gets kicked is right before I pull the trigger and I'm on target.
    I will say though I wish I could find someone who makes parts because these are going to run out eventually and the current one could use some tweaks
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  3. #23
    Boolit Master Wolfdog91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shawlerbrook View Post
    I wish someone would resurrect the NEF/H&R line like Ruger is doing for Marlin.
    Me to but from my understanding all the tooling was bought and scrapped. That being said I feel a company like PSA or heck ,bear creek even could come up with new tooling fairly easy compared to other guns
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  4. #24
    Boolit Master Wolfdog91's Avatar
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    So.... Found out I do t have really any 1" scope rings any more swear I had 10 extras but guess not.any how stole the pic mount off my Ultra Varmint because even though I pefer how thick the original factory ones are , they just suck when it comes to mounting a scope like i need . ( I'm a smaller guy so I need my scopes lower and further back then most people) and since I can seem to find any of my 1inch rings I had to use a 30mm scope aaannd the only one I had to spare was my big 8-24 Muller. Looked kinda goofy so I tooth the 4" sub shade off it and added one of my Amazon special strap on cheek risers and honestly I don't think it looks too bad. Little more then I'd like but it's close to the tactical/traditional mix I like.


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  5. #25
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    Thanks Wolfdog91!

  6. #26
    Boolit Master hoodat's Avatar
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    I wonder If my NEF .410 would accept a Hornet barrel?? AND-- are the hornets these days .223 or .224 groove dia.? jd
    It seems that people who do almost nothing, often complain loudly when it's time to do it.

  7. #27
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ID:	310524Mine is an H&R with the transfer bar bought it 35 years ago for my oldest son to hunt deer with. He killed a 14 point with 1 shot (his first). My other son got his first one with it also. I’ve killed a few gobblers with it. Also got a few coyotes with it.

  8. #28
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    Thanks @Wolddog91 now I gotta get in the shop and figure out which spring I need!

  9. #29
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    Another plus is that the old style rebounding hammer has a lower spur- making lower scope mounting possible. My transfer bar(NEF called it a striker) model 158 requires higher scope rings than my rebounding model 490 does.


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  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    Another plus is that the old style rebounding hammer has a lower spur- making lower scope mounting possible. My transfer bar(NEF called it a striker) model 158 requires higher scope rings than my rebounding model 490 does.


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    How do you know if it’s the old style or not?

    My hornet scope is high as well but my 25-06 scope sits much lower.


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  11. #31
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    These are Toppers, not NEF.
    The taller hammer spur in the middle is a transfer bar action. The other two are rebounding hammer style.
    I’m not sure if they used the RH style after NEF took over.


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  12. #32
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    Good looking rifle Wolfdog91.
    I have two in 30-06 one has a factory fit 44 mag barrel. Never shot the 30-06, just the 44.
    According to NEF all shotguns are on a SB-1 receiver ang can't handle the pressure of rifle rounds. Rifles are on a SB-2 receiver. Barrels need to be head spaced by a gunsmith.
    James

  13. #33
    Boolit Master Wolfdog91's Avatar
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    So the weather finally evens out and I got a chance to shoot it ! Problem is everyone was out planting or fertilizing the pastures so couldn't shoot my usual spot.
    So dragged myself to the local public range and as much as I hate it lol I shot off the bench . Caldwell Rock BR front rest little crappy wedge rearbag so nice and steady

    So gotta say it's not the worst thing in the world but man I hate glass break triggers with no creep and I definitely hate them when their 5+lbs ! Also the grip isn't the best if you have small hand like me. Never felt super comfortable especially compared to my Ultra Varmints thumbhole stock ( don't use the thumbhole in a traditional fashion but it's much closer to the trigger and better fits my hand). But anyhow 50yd 5rd groups PPU 45gr SP


    So looking like this girl may suffer from the cure many handi's have of split grouping but I'm not sure yet. Once I put this rebounding hammer in and adjust the trigger we'll see. Will probably do the o ring trick as well

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  14. #34
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    Not a great solution but if you need to get the scope back more you can use both rings in front of the turret for low recoil applications.
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  15. #35
    Boolit Master Wolfdog91's Avatar
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  16. #36
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    Hey Wolfie, Thanks for posting the video. I hope you do one on the trigger mod with the new parts. Also, what is the O-ring trick? If you lived a little closer, I would cut a beefier rail to fit. I fell for one of the NEF guns too. It was also in .22 hornet but I made a .32 H&R stub-barrel job for the rifle just because I could. I love messing with rifles!

  17. #37
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    Wolfedog91, liked your video. My handirifle also had a terrible trigger and the ejector was quite astonishing with it power! I’ll shoot you a PM about some Hornet stiff that may interest you!
    Your fan, Tim

  18. #38
    Boolit Master Wolfdog91's Avatar
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    Okie dokie I'm back, shot video on this whole deal but can't find my flash drive for my phone so I can't edit anything through now.
    Anyhow, was able to to get to Putin the rebounding hammer and work the trigger. No in short for the first time you basically gut the receiver of about everything except the firing pin assembly all your going to need is you new hammer the hammer spring ( always use a new one ,the old one can be brittle and break)the the trigger group. Can toss about everything else.
    I like to buff all the pins with really light grit and paper then fine steel who'll to make them silky smooth and ad with a nicer trigger as well a re greasing every thing. Btw something that I've found to be a big hel is to make a jig with a bit of 2x4. I trace out my receiver to keep myself in line then pop my pins intot he wood enough to leave indents for each pin location. Then I just trill the holes out. Makes life a lot easier.



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    Last edited by Wolfdog91; 03-06-2023 at 05:08 AM.
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  19. #39
    Boolit Master Wolfdog91's Avatar
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    Bow I do modify the hammer spring by bending the legs out butttt I'm staring to wonder how necessary this is. Honestly if you can just find a hard war store spring with the right legs you'll probably be better off.
    The rebounding hammer on the left compared the the factory transfer bar hammer on the right. As you see you need to add a roll pin and trim it to the rebound hammer. It's don't pretty easy with the use of a Dremel cut off wheel and a tiny hammer. Fitment does take a little bit but when it's in enough the hammer should have free movement until you add the spring back

    Now to adjust your trigger pulley you need to file our sand these two points. The set notch ,tooth or TL what you want to call it and the top of the trigger. Personally I like to round off the top of the trigger ever so slightly and then sand doin the tooth's height and widen the angle . BE VERY CAREFUL HERE !!!

    All that a long with a spritz of graphite lock lube and I've gone from 5+ lbs to 1.4lbs. would probably be right under 2 lbs but that graphite lube is some kind a SLICK !

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  20. #40
    Boolit Master Wolfdog91's Avatar
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    Ok so since I'm trying to pinpoint what actually does " the trick" with this I'm trying to do everything the same and I lay changing one thing at a time. So from the "base" meaning how it was from my first shots I will do the same thing not messing with anything else except one thing at a time. That way I can ,again , be able to pin point the exact moment I see noticable changes. So right now , same scope , same stock, same reset same shooting style , same ammo same target ect. Everything is the same except the trigger job.

    So was a beautiful day , range was dead empty so was able to have a nice uninterrupted hour to shoot.

    Caldwell rock BR with a read bag nice natural point of aim was shooting main 24x I think on the 50yd target. Parallax set to 50 and crystal clear on the head


    So basically what I did was 5rd at 50yd then moved to 100yd 10rd ( was told by some people that shooting too close may have been a problem) then back to 50yd then Rd then 5rd more same target lower sticky aannnd .


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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check