1911 Barrel Link Question

[Four-Sixty]

I have a new Tisas Duty in 45 ACP.

The slide locks up at random. I also get a FTF from time to time. I noticed the barrel link gets trapped between the "ears" it is pinned between. Shouldn't the barrel link swing freely back and forth? When my barrel link goes backwards, towards the chamber, it can get wedged pretty tight.

[Daver7]

The 1911s I have the link swings free.

[Hick]

Should swing free. If it was mine, I would try honing the metal a little where it wedges to get it to swing free-- BUT don't remove much metal.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

The link is staked into the barrel's "ears". If you feel competent, you can drift out the link (which will destroy the staking job) and then either spread the ears a bit by gently pounding something wedge shaped like a screwdriver between the ears, or using a needle file to take a bit off the inside of the ears. Then reinstall the link and pin and stake the pin again with a prick punch. Perhaps if you move the link all the way forward toward the muzzle you can file a bit off the sides of the link without removing it from the ears. Either way, it won't take much to free it up. Also, be advised that failure to lock open or cycle properly can sometimes be the length of the link. Often enough that they make the links in different lengths, available in a kit of several links, and you'd need one a bit longer than what you've got installed. Again, replacing the link involves pounding out the link pin and ruining the stake job. The first time you replace a link you'll look at the several in the kit and say to yourself, "I don't see any difference." But the difference is in the distance between the hole for the slide stop pin and the hole for the link pin, and you'll notice the holes slightly farther apart on the longer links.

DG

[Four-Sixty]

Thanks for the replies folks. I'll probably take it to a local gun Smith who has done great work in the past for my family. I am kind of heavy handed and prefer to pay to have it right.

[Stephen Cohen]

Interesting DG. I have had 3 1911 45s and none of the link pins were staked and in fact one would fall out if I was not careful. All shot well till our powers that be deemed the 45 to be too much for us to be allowed to own. Regards Stephen

[schutzen-jager]

four sixty, if it shoots reliably i would not worry about it -

Der Gebirgsjager, i currently have 6 1911 + 1911a1's GI + commercial + none are staked - i can find no references about staking in GI + factory repair manuals - any idea what purpose the staking would serve ? - the one i checked the lugs are a close fit to channel in frame + pin could not move sideways when installed + are a snug fit in lugs - could it be to keep A loose or worn pin from falling out when taking down pistol ? -

[Four-Sixty]

I have almost 400 rounds through this pistol. It fails to feed about five percent of the time. The slide does freeze up at random, and require a fair bit of force to unjam. I had to use a rubber mallet the last time to unlock the slide. You can even see the bluing on both sides of the link has rubbed away in spots. Yet, I can't detect a bur. It's as if that "channel" was cut too narrow. With the barrel out of the slide, but the disconnect pin inserted in the link, I can push the link rearwards and firmly lodge it into the "ears". Note, that is with the pin in the link's hole, so the link did not travel too far backwards.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

My very first 1911, a WW I Colt, was not staked either. Every time I'd disassemble it for cleaning the pin would actually fall out onto the table! I think I was about 15 or 16 at the time, and wondered about what seemed to me to be a deficiency in design. But after studying the situation for awhile I realized that once the barrel is carefully inserted into the slide, and then the slide onto the frame, the pin can't go anywhere in the fully assembled pistol as it's trapped in the well between the side stop holes.

However, as the years passed I acquired a couple dozen 1911s of various makes, and all of them are staked including the military issue pistols. Sometimes it is difficult to see, but it is there; and sometimes it is done with a prick punch applied at the joint of the edge of the pin and the edge of the link's hole on both sides which causes a deformation that has then been buffed or filed smooth so as to be less noticeable. Sometimes the edge of the pin only has been sort of smushed with a flat faced punch just expanding it a bit.

So, you're right, in that staking the pin is not critical to the operation of the pistol; but again, on the other hand, having it easily slide in and out of the link and ears creates a loss possibility, and not one you'd want to risk in the field as it is easily lost and your pistol worthless. I'd also just mention that I've never seen 1911 disassembly instructions that involved removing the link and the pin from the barrel for routine maintenance. Yes, they are shown as separate parts in exploded diagrams, Numrich sells them separately, but for most purposes they are considered one unit.

I'm searching through my foggy memory here, but I think I've still go at least a dozen 1911s. WW I Colts (2), WW II Ithaca (2) AMT Hardballer, (3)Colt civilian (3), SW1911 (2), Essex (probably shouldn't count, as I built them) (2), RIA (1), probably a couple more. Also, numerous Llama and Star Spanish 1911 types in abundance, plus some Argentine Ballester Molina pistols (I'm sort of a Spanish pistol collector). The lock work on the Spanish pistols may differ, but they use the Browning swinging link barrel system, and none have loose pins.

Just for what it's worth-- as there are guys here on this fine forum than doubtless know more than I do about most things including women, automobiles, fine wine, and chocolate!

DG

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Four-Sixty: It does sound like that for starters the link should be removed and the inside of the ears filed a bit. The link should swing freely in a not quite 180 degree arc. Here's an idea for you. 1911 parts now days are highly interchangeable, no matter where made. Not completely with the small parts, but barrels largely are. So, why not beg, borrow, or scrounge another 1911 barrel complete with mounted link and swap it out for a test run? If it works properly with the replacement barrel you've isolated the problem to the OE barrel that came with the pistol. If it still doesn't work properly I'd replace the OE barrel and send the pistol back for repair/replacement.

DG

[JimB..]

Forget all the advice above.

You bought a new pistol, it needs work, send it back.

BTW, the binding could be that the pin isn’t square to the ears, that the pin isn’t straight, that the link wasn’t properly drilled, that one or both ears are misaligned. Thinning the link or creating clearance on the ears would most likely fix the problem of the link binding…but nobody knows if that’s what’s causing your problem.

You have a low cost or free option, take it.

[schutzen-jager]

jmho
i would not alter anything, after 400 rounds + still not functioning properly any alterations done by you would probably void warranty - i'd send it back for repair or have the shop that sold it save you the hassle + send it back for you -

[alfadan]

How many rounds through it so far?
I would think recoil spring pressure and momentun would overcome a tight link.
You say you have FTFs, is it not closing the last, say, 1/16th of an inch? Are these reloads you have used before? May be a problem with your crimp. Maybe looke over the locking lugs for burrs.

[Gtek]

If it were me I would take the slide stop and put through link on removed barrel. If it goes forward till you can't no more and goes back up ramps and hit rear lug wall with no binding I would grease it and put it back together. At what point in the assembled cycle operation is the total link pushed aft of lugs? I have and do take 320 wet paper and chamfer lug edges inboard and outboard and remove link edges for the softening and removal of the knife edges. Removing hard/sharp contact edges digging on stop and which does not let my grease roll back in there.

[Gtek]

Something else you can check while your playing. Hold assembled weapon in right hand clear and magazine free. Cycle slide full rear and let go, when in battery reach over top with left thumb and push down on barrel. If it drops any they have over cut lugs and I would bet your slide stop pin measures .198"ish. An after market .200"-.201" will help snug that up before a good wear pattern is established.

[elmacgyver0]

I never pay attention to firearm warranties. If it is broken, I fix it.
If they didn't get it right the first time, maybe they can't get it right the second either.
I guess you have to know your limitations.
If you feel uncomfortable to fix it yourself, by all means send it in.
I have several firearms that do not function properly, all I have built myself.
No place to send them, except to myself.
I have just not gotten around to it yet.

[Kosh75287]

All my 1911s had free-swinging links. When you mention "ears", I want to be sure I understand exactly what you are referring to. If you hold the barrel horizontal, are the "ears" the parts to the rear of it, that point straight down the greatest distance?
If yes, then VERY gentle deburring may cure it. You might also hit the exposed sides of the link, itself. If you hone the "ears" too much and the width is out of spec, about the only remedy is to replace the whole barrel, or "weld up" where you polished, which (for all I know) may not even be possible. If you over-polish the sides of the link and its width is out of spec, you get to replace THAT, too, but it's far easier.
I don't know what the spec is for the distance between the holes on the link, but it's available somewhere. If you completely remove yours, take note of the distance & avail yourself of one of the after-market link kits that Herr Gebirgsjager mentioned.

[Gtek]

"The slide locks up at random" maybe expand definition? After discharge, locked to the rear, out of battery, slide stop engaged, etc..?
Please google (1911- riding the link).

[1006]

The link does not move past the ears in an aft direction during normal operation. I may not have an accurate visualization of the movement, but, so far, it sounds like you are looking at the wrong symptom.

There are some tests to verify that the link is the correct length.

This article at Brownells give an idea of what to check. Barrel link fitting starts a few paragraphs down.

https://www.brownells.com/guntech/bu....htm?lid=10306

I had one that would mysteriously lock up….it turned out to be the guide rod flange was undersized and ill fitting. Changed the guide rod…..problem went away.

[Four-Sixty]

Alfadan's comment about the last 1/16" got me thinking. When the slide is fully forward, the link is probably furthest back towards the ears. I had a couple times found the slide was not closed when I was shooting. It did not go that last 1/16".

So, anyway, I must confess this is my first 1911. It was so difficult to rack the slide I had to cock the hammer first. I watched videos of people effortlessly racking the slide and wondered if my hand strength was gone.

So, today I filed and sanded away at the inside of the "ears" where the link swings between. In about 15 minutes I got it so the link easily passes between those ears. I reassembled the pistol. It is now considerably easier to rack the slide, even with the hammer down. I could not do that before!

Since the link was being trapped. I suspect it took a lot more energy to unlock the slide than it otherwise should. A test at the range in the next week or so will tell.

Thanks all for the great replies and insights.