A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.
Thanks Mega. You read more carefully than some. I haven't done that powder under the nipple test, don't guess I realized it goes there. I thought it stayed in the chamber and the spark went around the corner. . I'll test that. Yes, I'm using CCI #11 mag primers. For some reason, the GM snail, which is otherwise identical to the T/C snail, has no clean out screw. When I clean, I run water down the barrel with the nipple off (after vigorously pumping a jag/patch up and down the barrel with the breech in a bucket of hot soapy water) from the tub faucet and water flows freely altho I haven't really thought to compare the flow with the original barrel's flow.
I bought a new Invest Arms .58cal Hawken back in the late 80's. From day 1, it had a slight delayed ignition using #11 caps. It always went bang, but it was a noticeable millisecond delay. I tried a few of the simple things first, cleaning, different caps and powder brands. Nothing really worked, so I bought a musket cap nipple and some musket caps, and Bob's yer Uncle! instant ignition with any powder type, light loads, heavy loads, wet weather, it doesn't matter.
You might consider giving them a try. Another side advantage is that they are easier to handle, especially with gloves or cold fingers.
Deplorable infidel
thanks fast. I agree, musket caps are easier to handle. I use mag #11 they are supposed to put out as much fire as musket caps from what I've read. Don't know if I could find any right now anyway.
That's a bit odd that there's no clean out screw. If it were mine I would drill and tap it for one.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
Waksupi, I called it a "clean out screw" because I thought that was what it was. I've heard others call it that, but never found the need to remove it to "clean out" anything. What is it? If it's not to be removed, why is it there? Or not there in this case.
I need some clarification. When you are talking about the cleanout area, are you talking about the drum that the nipple screws into?
A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.
These screws we're talking about, are on the side of the drum/snail that the nipple screws into. My GM drop in doesn't have one
I thought that was what you were talking about. I just never heard it referred to that way.
A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.
Like many others, I much prefer black powder over substitutes. If that’s what you can get however, it will work just fine in the TC breech as well as the GM, Rice, or other plugs. I’ve been using only nipples with an orifice over .028” (Hotshot is one) successfully along with Remington #11 caps. Clean well (haven’t pulled a “clean out” screw in many years) and protect your bore with Eezox or Frog Lube, both of those will dry to a film and do not foul powder. A solid whack on the side of the rifle after your powder is dropped and before the bullet is seated helps to settle powder under the cone. Fires every time.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
WOW!.....ok Learn sump'in every day! Talk about thread drift!
Maybe, maybe not.
I found a reference indicating that in caplocks, the vent hole was intended to relieve the back pressure of a sealed breech for safety reasons - that online site is not longer. https://web.archive.org/web/20170310...erger-part-20/
Within the text of the article it states ...
"For the caplock shooters, I should mention that James Purdey, one of the most famous of the British gunmakers, also put platinum vents into his percussion breeches (Fig. 1) to relieve back pressure. In the early percussion days, it was feared that a completely sealed breech would be under too much pressure for safety. A platinum vent was inserted in the breech under the nipple to relieve pressure. Observe the shape of the vent hole that was designed to be removed with a turnscrew. "
There is also further reference that "The vent hole on most percussion guns and rifles was never meant has a safety blow out device, the main reason for these were to act has air vent for faster ignition with the ignition of the cap, on the later guns they were nearly all platinum but the early ones were screwed in iron ones. The most early ones were patent by Samuel Nock."
Don't much matter to me, I prefer flint locks to cap locks.
Last edited by FrankJD; 02-13-2023 at 04:02 PM.
The .45-70 is the only government I trust.
@FrankJD, the problem is you are inferring an early 1800's advertisement for an extra flash hole on a shotgun can be used as evidence why Thompson Center would put a screw into their breech plug. That's besides the fact one is a hole, and the other is a screw.
Again, that screw in the TC breech plug is not for blow off or any kind of safety reasons.
Well, that's all great, I'm gonna call it a clean out screw, that I've never used. I don't care that my drop in GM barrel doesn't have one. Back (somewhat) to the original purpose of this thread. I went to the range today and took the 1/2 lb of Goex 2F that a friend gave me probably 20 yrs ago. Got some cleaning patches, Ballistol/H2O mix, proceeded to go "old school". I shot, swabbed, then reloaded, shot again etc. I had nothing but excellent ignition, and as far as accuracy, at 50 yds with 70 gr, 5 shots looked like 2 ragged holes about 1/2 in apart. I can't even shoot that well I didn't think. Shot 80 gr for 2 shots, and they were close but slightly higher than the previous shots. But nothing but hard, positive ignition on all 7 shots. Nothing but real black will go in this gun from now on. I had more fouling but was removed easily.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |