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Thread: Best place to get black powder

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by T-Bird View Post
    I don't have a bore scope. If real black doesn't "fix" the condition, I'll investigate further.
    If you have one of the smart phone/handheld computer (I still use a flip phone) you can get a bore scope on Amazon for under $10.00 for the really cheap ones and between $30.00 and $40.00 for one of what should be a better quality.
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  2. #22
    Boolit Master

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    Thanks Mega. You read more carefully than some. I haven't done that powder under the nipple test, don't guess I realized it goes there. I thought it stayed in the chamber and the spark went around the corner. . I'll test that. Yes, I'm using CCI #11 mag primers. For some reason, the GM snail, which is otherwise identical to the T/C snail, has no clean out screw. When I clean, I run water down the barrel with the nipple off (after vigorously pumping a jag/patch up and down the barrel with the breech in a bucket of hot soapy water) from the tub faucet and water flows freely altho I haven't really thought to compare the flow with the original barrel's flow.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master fastdadio's Avatar
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    I bought a new Invest Arms .58cal Hawken back in the late 80's. From day 1, it had a slight delayed ignition using #11 caps. It always went bang, but it was a noticeable millisecond delay. I tried a few of the simple things first, cleaning, different caps and powder brands. Nothing really worked, so I bought a musket cap nipple and some musket caps, and Bob's yer Uncle! instant ignition with any powder type, light loads, heavy loads, wet weather, it doesn't matter.
    You might consider giving them a try. Another side advantage is that they are easier to handle, especially with gloves or cold fingers.
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  4. #24
    Boolit Master

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    thanks fast. I agree, musket caps are easier to handle. I use mag #11 they are supposed to put out as much fire as musket caps from what I've read. Don't know if I could find any right now anyway.

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy
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    That's a bit odd that there's no clean out screw. If it were mine I would drill and tap it for one.

  6. #26
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jackrabbit1957 View Post
    That's a bit odd that there's no clean out screw. If it were mine I would drill and tap it for one.
    Those are not clean out screws, and are not intended to be removed.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  7. #27
    Boolit Master

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    Waksupi, I called it a "clean out screw" because I thought that was what it was. I've heard others call it that, but never found the need to remove it to "clean out" anything. What is it? If it's not to be removed, why is it there? Or not there in this case.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master fastdadio's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    Those are not clean out screws, and are not intended to be removed.
    Now you tell me. I have 3 side lock muzzle loaders that have them. I remove them every time I clean and punch the hole with a bristle type pipe cleaner. Been doing it for 40 years.
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  9. #29
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    I need some clarification. When you are talking about the cleanout area, are you talking about the drum that the nipple screws into?
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  10. #30
    Boolit Master

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    These screws we're talking about, are on the side of the drum/snail that the nipple screws into. My GM drop in doesn't have one

  11. #31
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    I thought that was what you were talking about. I just never heard it referred to that way.
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  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by T-Bird View Post
    I haven't shot real black powder since the early '70's. I had a cap and ball revolver that I shot a lot of it in. When I was older and bought my first bp rifle, the store that I got my bp from had closed, and the LGS didn't carry real black. Pyrodex was the choice so I went with it and have had no problems......until now. I bought a drop in Green Mountain 54 cal slow twist barrel for my T/C Hawken and it will give fairly frequent hang fires with both 777 and Pyrodex. I was thinking that if I go to real black powder, these will probably stop. I know I'm gonna have to get it online but didn't know where was the best place. I've seen it at Powder Valley. I knew that y'all would know the best (cheapest) place.
    Like many others, I much prefer black powder over substitutes. If that’s what you can get however, it will work just fine in the TC breech as well as the GM, Rice, or other plugs. I’ve been using only nipples with an orifice over .028” (Hotshot is one) successfully along with Remington #11 caps. Clean well (haven’t pulled a “clean out” screw in many years) and protect your bore with Eezox or Frog Lube, both of those will dry to a film and do not foul powder. A solid whack on the side of the rifle after your powder is dropped and before the bullet is seated helps to settle powder under the cone. Fires every time.

  13. #33
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

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    Quote Originally Posted by T-Bird View Post
    Waksupi, I called it a "clean out screw" because I thought that was what it was. I've heard others call it that, but never found the need to remove it to "clean out" anything. What is it? If it's not to be removed, why is it there? Or not there in this case.
    They are a manufacturing expedient used when they put the breechplug in
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  14. #34
    Boolit Master fastdadio's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    They are a manufacturing expedient used when they put the breechplug in
    In what way? I can't see how that drilled and tapped hole would expedite any manufacturing process. It takes time and adds another process.
    Deplorable infidel

  15. #35
    Boolit Buddy FrankJD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastdadio View Post
    In what way? I can't see how that drilled and tapped hole would expedite any manufacturing process. It takes time and adds another process.
    It's a blow out "safety" vent that will do just that if the load is either too much or incorrect.
    The .45-70 is the only government I trust.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master

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    WOW!.....ok Learn sump'in every day! Talk about thread drift!

  17. #37
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankJD View Post
    It's a blow out "safety" vent that will do just that if the load is either too much or incorrect.
    I can say with certainty that is NOT what it is. Whatever it's true purpose, it can be removed easily, and does allow a pipe cleaner in easily. I don't remove mine for normal cleaning. It doesn't matter though since apparently Green Mountain barrels don't have them.

  18. #38
    Boolit Buddy FrankJD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    I can say with certainty that is NOT what it is. Whatever it's true purpose, it can be removed easily, and does allow a pipe cleaner in easily. I don't remove mine for normal cleaning. It doesn't matter though since apparently Green Mountain barrels don't have them.
    Maybe, maybe not.

    I found a reference indicating that in caplocks, the vent hole was intended to relieve the back pressure of a sealed breech for safety reasons - that online site is not longer. https://web.archive.org/web/20170310...erger-part-20/

    Within the text of the article it states ...

    "For the caplock shooters, I should mention that James Purdey, one of the most famous of the British gunmakers, also put platinum vents into his percussion breeches (Fig. 1) to relieve back pressure. In the early percussion days, it was feared that a completely sealed breech would be under too much pressure for safety. A platinum vent was inserted in the breech under the nipple to relieve pressure. Observe the shape of the vent hole that was designed to be removed with a turnscrew. "

    There is also further reference that "The vent hole on most percussion guns and rifles was never meant has a safety blow out device, the main reason for these were to act has air vent for faster ignition with the ignition of the cap, on the later guns they were nearly all platinum but the early ones were screwed in iron ones. The most early ones were patent by Samuel Nock."

    Don't much matter to me, I prefer flint locks to cap locks.
    Last edited by FrankJD; 02-13-2023 at 04:02 PM.
    The .45-70 is the only government I trust.

  19. #39
    Boolit Grand Master


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    @FrankJD, the problem is you are inferring an early 1800's advertisement for an extra flash hole on a shotgun can be used as evidence why Thompson Center would put a screw into their breech plug. That's besides the fact one is a hole, and the other is a screw.

    Again, that screw in the TC breech plug is not for blow off or any kind of safety reasons.

  20. #40
    Boolit Master

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    Well, that's all great, I'm gonna call it a clean out screw, that I've never used. I don't care that my drop in GM barrel doesn't have one. Back (somewhat) to the original purpose of this thread. I went to the range today and took the 1/2 lb of Goex 2F that a friend gave me probably 20 yrs ago. Got some cleaning patches, Ballistol/H2O mix, proceeded to go "old school". I shot, swabbed, then reloaded, shot again etc. I had nothing but excellent ignition, and as far as accuracy, at 50 yds with 70 gr, 5 shots looked like 2 ragged holes about 1/2 in apart. I can't even shoot that well I didn't think. Shot 80 gr for 2 shots, and they were close but slightly higher than the previous shots. But nothing but hard, positive ignition on all 7 shots. Nothing but real black will go in this gun from now on. I had more fouling but was removed easily.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check