PB Gas Check Question

[fjrdoc]

I have used plain base gas checks on my hand gun cartridges and my 45-70 Winchester 1885 with excellent results. I own several Mannlicher-Schoenauer rifles in 6.5mm, 8mm, and 9mm. Since I have a large supply of jacketed bullets for these rifles, I have not cast for them. I hope to be purchasing a 9.5mm in the near future and I thought that it would be fun to shoot cast boolits in it. Would plain base GC work at velocities around 2000 fps? If so, does anybody know of a source for .375 plain base GC? I haven't been able find any to purchase.

[ascast]

Does PB mean PLAIN BASE ? I am a bit confused on that one. I have shot about any every 38-55 bullet in my 9.5 Turkish Mauser. They work fine, given the normal fit issues. My gun is 139 yrs old so I have not tried to push it too much. Factory as PP at about 1800fps IIRC.

[fjrdoc]

I'm sorry about the abbreviation. PB (plain base). Ascast, do you use copper gas checks or aluminum plain base? Do you make your gas checks or buy them? I would like to purchase some aluminum plain base for 9.5 but haven't been able to locate any.

[Larry Gibson]

What is the cartridge for the .375 bullets?

If a modern cartridge for smokeless powder I suggest you get a mould designed for GCs. Reason being a GC suitable for 2000 fps on a bullet with alloy/BHN suitable for 2000 fps can be troublesome to size on.

Suggest a read through of this thread paying attention to my posts and the problems/solutions the OP has come up with in the last couple posts;

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...ere-uses/page2

[fjrdoc]

Thanks Larry. I will read through the posts. This would be for a 9.5x56 Mannlicher cartridge. I understand what you're saying about bullet hardness and and sizing.

[gloob]

Total sidetrack. Maybe.

I'm not sure what the ideal height of a PB check would be. But if a .500 disc size worked, a PB checkmaker for .376 could be coincidentally darn easy to make.

punch: 1/2" OD, 3/8" ID. Very common size. Easily purchased as raw tube. Also a common size of swinging hinges. Only need some light opening up for the relief.
Die: 5/8" OD, 1/2" ID tube is also very common. Can also buy as wheel bushings.
Button: quickly made from a piece of 3/8" round.

So darn easy, I could be tempted to make one... if I had those parts, already. Barely any boring involved. Potentially none, at all, to just hammer a few out and tap them out the punch with a rod. In two steps if that's easier for you. Then "finesse" w/e you end up with onto the bullets for testing. Can't find the post, but it has been done that way quite crudely, and the guy even liked his own checks better than Sage's.


If you're not into tinkering, normal gas checks with shanks are potentially easier or more automatic to install, properly, and they're readily available. In a caliber like this, I doubt you'll shoot that much where the cost of regular checks is a big deal. So unless you plan to coat, I don't see a big incentive to buy a PB mold.

[ascast]

FJRDOC - I buy copper checks, mostly Hornady. Never used an aluminum. Can't see making my own when the tool is about $90 ( call it $100 with postage) and I can buy 2000 for that money. Your either shooting a lot or have a weird specific need; I would like some 11mm checks, but.... I have a lot to learn re: gas checks. Are you taking about mashing a check on a plain base bullet that has no allowance for the check? If so, I would recommend using a regular gas checked bullet with regular gas checks. I know there are a bunch of Ideal/Lyman molds that have a tapered shank. I think this is to allow a gas check to be loaded but NOT crimped on. It separates cleanly from the bullet not far done range. I have also known peeps who load them upside down. I cant speak to the effectiveness of either. I think I will read the link posted by Larry.

ps I could send you some regular gc's if you need them. pm me