MidSouth Shooters SupplyTitan ReloadingReloading EverythingWideners
Load DataRotoMetals2RepackboxLee Precision
Inline Fabrication
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 47

Thread: Ruger Redhawk don't shoot no more?

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Boonesborough, KY
    Posts
    6,925
    Glad to hear it. You may want to replace the mainspring as I'm pretty sure it controls several different functions in these guns. I've taken my Service Six apart a few times and didn't find it any more difficult than my Smiths.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    DonMountain's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Mid-Missouri
    Posts
    1,159
    So, now that I have found this design defect in the Ruger Redhawk with the hammer link merely hooked over a roll pin on the spring attachment, leading to total failure of the firing system at the worst possible time, what would be a better similar replacement for this design? I can't believe Ruger engineering staff didn't link the two together with a hole in the hammer link and another roll pin linking the two together? So, what would be a more suitable double action revolver with 7-1/2" barrel all in stainless with included scope mounts that I might replace this pistol with? I don't see this Ruger as suitable for deer hunting any more. Only plinking with low power loads when I bring other more serious firearms to the range with me.

  3. #23
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    48
    Super redhawk

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master


    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Aberdeen, South Dakota
    Posts
    7,136
    Quote Originally Posted by DonMountain View Post
    So, now that I have found this design defect in the Ruger Redhawk with the hammer link merely hooked over a roll pin on the spring attachment, leading to total failure of the firing system at the worst possible time, what would be a better similar replacement for this design? I can't believe Ruger engineering staff didn't link the two together with a hole in the hammer link and another roll pin linking the two together? So, what would be a more suitable double action revolver with 7-1/2" barrel all in stainless with included scope mounts that I might replace this pistol with? I don't see this Ruger as suitable for deer hunting any more. Only plinking with low power loads when I bring other more serious firearms to the range with me.
    The super Redhawk, despite the similar name, is completely different inside. It is nearly identical to the GP100. That failure will not happen with a super Redhawk.

    That said, more than likely the cause of your failure was just gunk and grime over the decades caused your spring or action to jam, yet your hammer continued to fall. Now that you have cleaned and lubed it, it is probably not going to do it again for 30 more years. Or just clean it every couple of years and it will never happen. While the super Redhawk will not have this problem, it can have it's own problems such as a trigger that doesn't return, or a horrible trigger pull if you don't clean it for 30 years.

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    132
    I understand when you've lost confidence in your firearm to perform. Sad deal...as the gun has served you well for a long time.

    In any case, I've got a Ruger Super RedHawk in .480 Ruger. I like BIG holes and lots of weight. You might too if you're shooting 310 grain .44s. Barrel length is 7.5" and it is set up for scope mounting. Different insides than the RedHawk. I just got my cylinder back from DougGuy; the insides look much better now! He had to hone the throats and ream the chambers to 6degree 30min. angle. My trigger is, I think, the worst of any gun I own. Not too heavy, but it is very gritty. I'll be tinkering with the trigger as I have time. Now that I've taken the gun apart to get to the cylinder I'm braver about getting into it again.
    Last edited by LeonardC; 02-08-2023 at 08:46 PM.

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master


    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Aberdeen, South Dakota
    Posts
    7,136
    Quote Originally Posted by LeonardC View Post
    I understand when you've lost confidence in your firearm to perform. Sad deal...as the gun has served you well for a long time.

    In any case, I've got a Ruger Super RedHawk in .480 Ruger. I like BIG holes and lots of weight. You might too if you're shooting 310 grain .44s. Barrel length is 7.5" and it is set up for scope mounting. Different insides than the RedHawk. I just got my cylinder back from DougGuy; the insides look much better now! He had to hone the throats and ream the chambers to 6degree 30min. angle. My trigger is, I think, the worst of any gun I own. Not too heavy, but it is very gritty. I'll be tinkering with the trigger as I have time. Now that I've taken the gun apart to get to the cylinder I'm braver about getting into it again.
    Are you talking about single action, or double action trigger? The two biggest problems I've seen with double action pull on the super Redhawk and GP100 are problems in the trigger return, and binding with the hammer and trigger, although binding probably isn't the right word. With the trigger return, the best thing to do is take the plunger and spring out, then run that size drill bit in there with your fingers. There is almost always some kind of shavings, or burr or something in there that causes all kinds of issues. After that is cleaned up inside, verify the plunger can slip right through there with no resistance at all. If that checks out, lightly oil, and I recommend putting them back together with the lightest trigger return spring Wolff sells. As for the "binding" it can be from a few areas. The trigger itself is usually pretty good. They sell shims for them, but I feel they don't offer anything. The hammer dog shims can definitely be worthwhile, but that usually isn't the source of a gritty pull itself. It is worth cleaning up the hammer dog and matching surface on the trigger with a stone. Lastly is the hammer, they almost always rub somewhat on the frame. Definitely use shims here, this can be a big source of gritty or heavy pulls. A lighter hammer spring can lighten the double action pull, but it does not have a huge effect on the single action pull.

    As for the single action trigger pull, that's really just a function of the fit between the hammer sear and trigger. The quick trick is to pull back the hammer, hold the hammer forward with mild force, and pull the trigger at the same time. Repeat a number of times. Sometimes this will knock a burr or smooth a bad spot off to improve things. Often it doesn't do a whole lot. If that doesn't fix it, then the only real solution is to manually adjust the fit of the parts. this is advanced level stuff. The safe answer is to gently run a stone on both surfaces to smooth them, not removing any edges, or changing any angles. If you really want to get into it, it is possible to *slightly* shorten the sear which reduces trigger creep. Obviously you have to do this very carefully to do it safely. You can also *slightly* alter the angle of the nose of the trigger, I would not mess with the hammer, only make sure that shelf is smooth. I would only do this if your smooth and crisp trigger pull is still very heavy. If it is already 3 or 4 pounds, you are already about as good as it gets.

    These tips apply to the GP100, Redhawk, and super Redhawk, except of course the Redhawk does not have a trigger return spring or plunger.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
    DonMountain's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Mid-Missouri
    Posts
    1,159
    Wow! These recommendations sure eliminate another Ruger gun from any consideration for hunting deer! I don't want to spend all that money to purchase a new Super Redhawk and receive such a poor example of machining and fitting to a point that it doesn't function well. And not being a gun mechanic I don't have the necessary skills to refit the gun myself to bring it to an acceptable level of performance. I have a World War Two vintage Smith and Wesson double action revolver that is smooth as glass and always fires any 45 ACP ammo I feed it. I want a deer hunting gun that works as smooth as that old S & W.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
    contender1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Lake Lure NC
    Posts
    2,412
    I don't think it's a design flaw or anything like that. The Redhawk has been around for decades & trusted by many, many handgun hunters. I'm not saying all of them are perfect,, or that the Super Redhawk is superior,, just that with ANY mechanical object,, there can be the occasional fail or hiccup. No matter who made them or how they are built. (Even a Freedom Arms can have an issue.)

    And the internal design of the Ruger,, when compared to a S&W is like comparing apples to pears. Totally two different action designs. It's well known that a S&W will often be "slicker or smoother" than a Ruger,, but that a Ruger will be stronger in the long run.

    Deer season is now months away. Take that Redhawk out,, shoot it,, a LOT & see if the problem happens again. You can learn to trust it again.

  9. #29
    Boolit Grand Master


    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Aberdeen, South Dakota
    Posts
    7,136
    Quote Originally Posted by DonMountain View Post
    Wow! These recommendations sure eliminate another Ruger gun from any consideration for hunting deer! I don't want to spend all that money to purchase a new Super Redhawk and receive such a poor example of machining and fitting to a point that it doesn't function well. And not being a gun mechanic I don't have the necessary skills to refit the gun myself to bring it to an acceptable level of performance. I have a World War Two vintage Smith and Wesson double action revolver that is smooth as glass and always fires any 45 ACP ammo I feed it. I want a deer hunting gun that works as smooth as that old S & W.
    That post #26 was for LeonardC, not for you. You have the advantage of not having bought a lemon. You seem to have taken my post in that all Ruger's need that to work, and that is not the case at all. You don't need to be a mechanic to see major issues. The great thing about Ruger is they are tolerant of a lot of mistakes in manufacturing that S&W's are not. The worst thing you will find in a Ruger is a thread choke in the barrel where the barrel threads into the frame. If you really want to be certain you don't have this, bring a couple of pin gauges with you to the store. Chances are good most guns don't have this issue, some do. All you need is a pin gauge just under bore diameter, say .419. If it slips easily in the muzzle, and it falls freely all the way through the barrel, you have no choke. As for trigger problems, that's easy, just dry fire them. You will know within a couple of pulls if there is anything wrong. Most new Redhawks and super Redhawks have decent double action pulls, and acceptable 4-5ish lb pound single action pulls. If it passes those two tests, there's almost nothing that will cause issues. I've never heard of any issues with cylinder endshake, they never skip like S&W's, even with super hotrod loads. The only thing that can make them fail is neglect or abuse.


    If you want a S&W model 29, I could make a list for that as well. The good thing about a S&W N frame trigger is that there are so many gunsmiths out there that worked on them, that you can easily find someone who will do it for you. They work in a similar manner to the Ruger's, but they are built way different. You definitely need well fitting screwdrivers to work on a S&W. It takes a special tool to change the trigger return springs on them (it is possible, although difficult to do without the tool). If you have a gunsmith work on your trigger, make sure that you have them replace your cylinder stop spring with an extra power one from Wolff. These guns work ok with moderate 240 grain bullet loads, but if you are shooting H110 full power 250+ grain bullet loads, the model 29 cylinder stop does not handle that level of recoil well. Some people's are ok, many don't. The worst part about that problem is you never know if it is going to happen or not. You can go 2 full cylinders, and then the next all of a sudden it skipped one under recoil. The extra power spring for the cylinder stop definitely helps. They will handle most 44 mag ammo then. I currently have a 41 magnum version, and it will still do it with 280 and 295 grain bullets, but under that is fine. The other problem that can develop over time is cylinder end shake. N frames are very sensitive about this, and even .004" endshake you can start to see issues. Basically an N frame is a fine gun if you are ok sticking with normal 44 magnum 265 gr and under loads, nothing hot-rodded.

    As for buying a S&W, you can do the same tests as Ruger, but another one I would advise if buying a new one is to run a patch on a cleaning rod down the barrel. Some of those ECM rifled barrels can be absolute junk. If I had done that on the last new one I bought, I would have saved myself a lot of headache. It had a large void in it, accuracy was non existent. S&W did nothing, said it was fine. If you are buying used I would always advise bringing feeler gauges to check barrel to cylinder gap and cylinder endshake, no matter the brand.
    Last edited by megasupermagnum; 02-09-2023 at 03:26 AM.

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    132
    I did not mean to imply that my Ruger or Rugers in general are lemons. I think MINE needed and still needs some work to be the best it can be for me.

    megasupermagnum: thank you for the suggestions. I shoot 99.99% single action. I will "lightly" try to get the trigger pull smoothed out. Gun must be safe. Gun must be reliable. The rest is just icing on the cupcake. If I can improve it safely I will.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master murf205's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Dead center of Alabama
    Posts
    2,367
    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    The super Redhawk, despite the similar name, is completely different inside. It is nearly identical to the GP100. That failure will not happen with a super Redhawk.

    That said, more than likely the cause of your failure was just gunk and grime over the decades caused your spring or action to jam, yet your hammer continued to fall. Now that you have cleaned and lubed it, it is probably not going to do it again for 30 more years. Or just clean it every couple of years and it will never happen. While the super Redhawk will not have this problem, it can have it's own problems such as a trigger that doesn't return, or a horrible trigger pull if you don't clean it for 30 years.
    +2 for the Super Redhawk. Ruger got it right when they made this gun. It is a tank, inside and out. I've got one that has digested a zillion full throttle rounds, and I mean FULL throttle, and it is still tight as a fish's butt! I've had 2 RedHawks and without a doubt a tougher gun. Negasupermagnum is right, it wont happen with this one.
    IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!

  12. #32
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Boonesborough, KY
    Posts
    6,925
    Super Blackhawk all the way, you can still find them new pretty easily for under a grand. If you find a worn but functional one at a pawn shop offer them a few benjamins and see if they bite. I think Taurus makes a .44 that is intended for hunting so that would also be an option. I have had nothing but good experiences with all my late model Taurus guns.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  13. #33
    Moderator Emeritus


    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Land of 10,000 Lakes
    Posts
    15,832
    Quote Originally Posted by DonMountain View Post
    Wow! These recommendations sure eliminate another Ruger gun from any consideration for hunting deer! I don't want to spend all that money to purchase a new Super Redhawk and receive such a poor example of machining and fitting to a point that it doesn't function well. And not being a gun mechanic I don't have the necessary skills to refit the gun myself to bring it to an acceptable level of performance. I have a World War Two vintage Smith and Wesson double action revolver that is smooth as glass and always fires any 45 ACP ammo I feed it. I want a deer hunting gun that works as smooth as that old S & W.
    Don,
    before you replace your Redhawk, do some searching and reading for other peoples experiences. I bet the condition you experienced is a rare one for sure. I don't think this condition is a design flaw, I think there is a cause, as to why your gun's hammer link unhooked from the roll pin. If this were a design flaw, we'd be reading about this situation happening on a regular basis...and Ruger would have fixed it.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy HumptyDumpty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    317
    One failure after 30 years of steady use does not indicate a poor design to me. I have numerous revolvers from 10-130 years of age, along with a wide variety of rifles and autoloading pistols spanning an even greater length of time. They are all machines, and will fail under the right conditions; revolvers are by no means immune, and I have had to repair several. If it happens again, you may need to replace something, but it may have been a complete fluke. Of course it's all up to your judgment, but I personally wouldn't give-up on the gun over this.

  15. #35
    Boolit Bub Snakeoil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2023
    Posts
    67
    I would give Ruger a call. Tell them what you found and if that indicates that the action needs factory attention. There might be a fix that they use and do not talk about because it is not common to all of the Redhawks produced. When I had Rugers, I found them to be very responsive to customers. Only Ruger I have left is a Vaquero. I bought it when they were first in the magazines. Called Ruger to see if they offered a steel ejector rod housing and was told that I did not have a Vaquero. I assured the person on the phone that I did. She said they have not been released for sale yet. I again repeated that I had one in my hands. She asked for the SN and I gave it to her. She said that gun was not supposed to be sold. It was a display model. I told her it was mine now. Probably collectible today.
    Regards,
    Rob

  16. #36
    Boolit Master
    Scrounge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    OKC Metro
    Posts
    1,433
    Quote Originally Posted by DonMountain View Post
    I finally got the time to look at all the suggested videos and instruction manual for the gun, and with everyone's suggestions took off the Hogue grips I have mounted on the gun. Fiddling around with the hammer and trigger while watching the movement of parts in the gun, it became obvious that part #22, Hammer Link was no longer hooked to the top of the Mainspring Lever. As per the videos, I removed the hammer along with the hammer link, and the mainspring along with the mainspring lever, and took a hard look at the hammer link for damage. It appears to be undamaged and hardly worn anywhere, so I cleaned up the interior of the gun, lubricated the pivot pins and parts that rub together, and put it all back together. I had a little trouble actually hooking the hammer link back onto the mainspring lever because of close clearance there. But once all back together it operates just like it did before the failure. And I can't imagine how this hammer link could have gotten unhooked from the mainspring lever with this much spring tension on it (original spring). And I thank all of you for your suggestions and help getting this Deer Gun back operating again. And now to load some more of those 320 grain cast lead projectiles over 17.0 grains of H-110 and go shooting again. We have been bothered by armadillos here in Missouri and I need a powerful load capable of piercing that super hard shell of theirs.
    Dang it! I thought I was gonna get a nice pistol out of this!

    Bet you're happy that you didn't send it to me, aren't you?

    Way to go!

  17. #37
    Boolit Master Rapier's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    NW Florida
    Posts
    1,450
    I would suggest you send the Red Hawk to Ruger to have it examined, they should never stop functioning, because they just fall apart, at any time. The Red Hawk is one tough gun.
    “There is a remedy for all things, save death.“
    Cervantes

    “Never give up, never quit.”
    Robert Rogers
    Roger’s Rangers

    There are three kinds of men. The one that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves.
    Will Rogers

  18. #38
    Boolit Grand Master
    rintinglen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Orange, VA NOW
    Posts
    6,492
    As to how the Hammer hook came off the mainspring lever, my best guess is that dried grease, dirt, metal shaving(s) or some combination thereof, caused the main spring to bind in the forward position, when the hammer was next cocked, the spring did not drive the Lever rearward and allowed the hammer hook to drop down, coming off the Mainspring Lever pin.

    To prevent a recurrence, disassemble the gun and thoroughly clean it, then lube with a good quality gun oil and plan on doing it again every three or four years or every 5,000 rounds, whichever comes first.

    I have had sterling service from two Redhawks over the years. My first one in particular was shot extensively--to the tune of thousands of rounds with no problems whatsoever. I regretfully sold it when times and family necessitated it, but as soon as I could afford to do so, I bought the one I have now. I consider them to be the best combination of portability and strength between the Model 29/629's (too weak), The Super Redhawk (too heavy), and the regular Redhawk. The only thing I can find fault is the trigger is not going to be as light as is possible with either the N-frame or gp-100 action Supers. I'd consider buying a 5 1/2 inch 44, if I could find one reasonably priced.
    _________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Lynn Ma
    Posts
    825
    I've replaced many of the hooks on my Redhawks and honestly that's the weak point of the design.
    10 min repair once you get the part.

  20. #40
    Boolit Master
    DonMountain's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Mid-Missouri
    Posts
    1,159
    Quote Originally Posted by DocSavage View Post
    I've replaced many of the hooks on my Redhawks and honestly that's the weak point of the design.
    10 min repair once you get the part.
    So, this is a weak point of a Redhawk and happens often. When you replace the hook on your Redhawks, do you use a newer design that eliminates this problem? Like instead of a hook on the end of this link maybe a link with a hole in it so the role pin can slide through and be captured there by the grips? And where do you get these "new design" links?

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check