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Thread: wads for checks

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    wads for checks

    I had the crazy thought about using cardboard wads on straight walled cases, ie. 3 special, 32 H&R mag. I've used card wads for shotgun reloading for years till thy cam out with plastic cup wads. My thought is that a cardboard wad, similar to the shotgun cad wads would work almost as well as a copper GC.. It would be simple to punch out a a cardboard wad from a sheet place it in the straight walled case and seat a plain base bullet on top.
    My question is, has anyone tried that and had good results?
    JUST ASKING !
    BD

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    I do that, I place a solid bleach card wad on top of powder, then a plastic wad, compress, wipe bullet base and set bullet on top... I do not crimp on this one, this load acts like a cleaner round for me. Very accurate in my 45/70 roller... Been doing this for over 6 years in this 45/70 long range target gun...

  3. #3
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    Not Cardboard... I use a Wax Wad.. not just paraffin tho, actually usually Bees Wax with a small bit of some lubricant. Melted together, pour on top of water to desired thickness...when cooled I have a "sheet" to press over mouth of Charged cases... then seat Boolit!!
    Pita. but, if you have some Boolits that are too hard, or sized too small... it Helps Bunches

  4. #4
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    I've researched this a bit. LDPE milk jug wads work. A cream of wheat filler works with a cardboard wad behind it. Both LDPE and COW will flow a bit under heat and compression to seal gaps. If plain cardboard wads do anything useful, you could be the first to find out and post about it. In all me research, I never found a case of this.

    Maybe if you soaked them in bullet lube. Then it might work similar to how wax checks work, by lubing the bullet. Just make sure they stay tight to the base of the bullet. There's a thing called chamber ringing, and I don't know if it's a myth.

    edit: racepress, I have melted a layer of lube over parchment paper and let it dry, then punch them out with a sharpened case mouth. Then pressed them to the back of a bullet that wouldn't pick up tumble lube. I never got around to trying it, though.

  5. #5
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    [Maybe if you soaked them ( wad ) in bullet lube. Then it might work similar to how wax checks work, by lubing the bullet. Just make sure they stay tight to the base of the bullet. ]

    May be someone can explain to me, how putting a lube, under / between, the bullet and powder, will lube said bullet ??? I can understand putting the lube in front of, or on the sides of bullet... under just may lube for the next bullet ??????

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLAHUT View Post
    [Maybe if you soaked them ( wad ) in bullet lube. Then it might work similar to how wax checks work, by lubing the bullet. Just make sure they stay tight to the base of the bullet. ]

    May be someone can explain to me, how putting a lube, under / between, the bullet and powder, will lube said bullet ??? I can understand putting the lube in front of, or on the sides of bullet... under just may lube for the next bullet ??????
    The bearing surface of a bullets starts out in full contact with the bore. But w/e gets left behind as fouling comes off the bearing surface of the bullet, leaving a gap. Now hot gas can shoot past the bullet. This occurs in jacketed bullets, and it's no problem. You just use a bit more powder charge. This gas jet melts lead pretty fast, so the fouling spirals out of control as the gap gets bigger and more hot gas jets by melting more lead faster.

    Now put a lube groove in the bullet. As the gas jets by, it melts the lube (and the lube absorbs some of the heat during this phase change from solid to liquid, like an ice cube cooling a drink), and it sprays the lube (now liquid oil) into the gap, limiting the leak and providing lubrication. The most important lube groove on the bullet is the rearmost one. Some cast rifle shooters only lube the rearmost groove.

    A wax check is like a rear-er lube groove.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by gloob View Post
    I've researched this a bit. LDPE milk jug wads work. A cream of wheat filler works with a cardboard wad behind it. Both LDPE and COW will flow a bit under heat and compression to seal gaps. If plain cardboard wads do anything useful, you could be the first to find out and post about it. In all me research, I never found a case of this.

    Maybe if you soaked them in bullet lube. Then it might work similar to how wax checks work, by lubing the bullet. Just make sure they stay tight to the base of the bullet. There's a thing called chamber ringing, and I don't know if it's a myth.

    edit: racepress, I have melted a layer of lube over parchment paper and let it dry, then punch them out with a sharpened case mouth. Then pressed them to the back of a bullet that wouldn't pick up tumble lube. I never got around to trying it, though.
    Worked for me.. Let us Know.
    Edit; BTW Corn Meal (or cream of wheat, or???Others) Really clean up a Barrel.. and I have Never had leading with it either..

    Quote Originally Posted by BLAHUT View Post
    [Maybe if you soaked them ( wad ) in bullet lube. Then it might work similar to how wax checks work, by lubing the bullet. Just make sure they stay tight to the base of the bullet. ]

    May be someone can explain to me, how putting a lube, under / between, the bullet and powder, will lube said bullet ??? I can understand putting the lube in front of, or on the sides of bullet... under just may lube for the next bullet ??????
    The Gasses will push fairly hard against the bottom me thinks... or the boolit would Not be Pushed Out..
    My Guess is that If there is a such thing as "flame cutting" this stops it.. or ???? Magic??

  8. #8
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    racepress: i used beeswax, with a bit of alox in it. A cool thing about the parchment paper is it is impermeable to oil. I figured it would be a barrier between the lube and the powder on a hot day.

    Just pressing the bullet down against the lube side make it stick to the base of the bullet. You could peel the dot of parchment paper off like the backing of a sticker. But my idea was to leave it on there as a barrier.

    I might never try it, though. I did a bunch of other things I like better. I modded the mold to work better with tumble lube, and I also made a PB gas check die for this bullet.

    But if one acquired a single batch of problematic bullets from an estate sale, wax checks are pretty easy thing to try.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by gloob View Post
    racepress: i used beeswax, with a bit of alox in it. A cool thing about the parchment paper is it is impermeable to oil. I figured it would be a barrier between the lube and the powder on a hot day.

    Just pressing the bullet down against the lube side make it stick to the base of the bullet. You could peel the dot of parchment paper off like the backing of a sticker. But my idea was to leave it on there as a barrier.

    I might never try it, though. I did a bunch of other things I like better. I modded the mold to work better with tumble lube, and I also made a PB gas check die for this bullet.

    But if one acquired a single batch of problematic bullets from an estate sale, wax checks are pretty easy thing to try.
    I like the waxed Paper "thing".. I did this with some Boolits that were gifted to me..Now I know Why..LOL
    They are pretty much exhausted Now..Except the ones with Corn Meal in 'em... I still use to "Clean that Barrel" LOL

  10. #10
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    Just an FYI, I believe wax paper is normal paper that is coated with wax. If the temp is hot enough for the lube and wax to melt, the lube can just seep right through the paper into the powder.

    Parchment paper isn't waxed. It can't hold wax. When wifey instructed me to put a single layer under the meat when cooking in the air fryer, I thought it was some dumb thing she read. But any oil that collects on this thin sheet of paper doesn't seep through to the other side.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by gloob View Post
    Just an FYI, I believe wax paper is normal paper that is coated with wax. If the temp is hot enough for the lube and wax to melt, the lube can just seep right through the paper into the powder.

    Parchment paper isn't waxed. It can't hold wax. When wifey instructed me to put a single layer under the meat when cooking in the air fryer, I thought it was some dumb thing she read. But any oil that collects on this thin sheet of paper doesn't seep through to the other side.
    Oh... My reading comprehension is Low!!! Yea I cook with Parchment Paper all the time... Never gave it a Thought...Nuther Experiment!! Lucky I have plenty of Victims for my Experiments!!!

  12. #12
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    I read somewhere once to use the foam trays that meat comes on as a gas check. I tried it once a long time ago really can’t say that I remember it doing much. I don’t think I would use anything like a card wad that could move and create an air space.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by R-71 View Post
    I read somewhere once to use the foam trays that meat comes on as a gas check. I tried it once a long time ago really can’t say that I remember it doing much. I don’t think I would use anything like a card wad that could move and create an air space.
    Yes...that kinda Helps... But, Not like wax wads

  14. #14
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    In Phil Sharpes Complete Guide to Handloading (yeah, I know it's really old), there's a section about using grease wads. This is where you insert a disc shaped card wad over the powder in a straight walled pistol case, then put a thin disc of bullet lube on top of that. You seat the bullet over this "grease wad". This was said to be a cure for barrel leading (which was less well understood back then than it is now). About 20 years ago I tried this out on some 44 magnum rounds that I was firing in a 10.5" barrel Superblackhawk. If I recall, the load was probably around 8 0r 9 grains of Unique with a 245 grain rcbs SWC bullet. The loads shot OK, but not necessarily better than regular lubed bullets. What I did notice after 50 rounds was a lot of lube spray on the cylinder, frame, and around the muzzle. With no gain in accuracy, velocity, or reliability, but making a substantially bigger mess, I decided that doing this just wasn't in the "cards".

    Later, with the advent of powder coating, all this stuff became irrelevant.

  15. #15
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    Walter's Wads make fiber/cardboard wads for most calibers, also have used wax wads, homemade and purchased in sheet form. SOMETIMES wads can reduce leading, SOMETIMES.

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thanks for all of the feedback. When the weather breaks, I am going to try out some of these sugestions a will make notes and get back to this.
    BD

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdog454 View Post
    Thanks for all of the feedback. When the weather breaks, I am going to try out some of these sugestions a will make notes and get back to this.
    BD
    Just in case some experiments result in leading... Load some with Corn Meal!!!!!
    What's another experiment among friends!!!!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check