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Thread: Swedish Mauser M96 35 Whelen Project

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Swedish Mauser M96 35 Whelen Project

    My buddy came across this beaten old gun in a pawn shop in Mississippi. The synthetic stock was busted at the front bolt and the front bolt was sheared off at the receiver. I suspect that someone was using a lead sled or something that didn't allow free recoil and caused it but who knows for sure.

    The rifle is dated 1919 and has a 20" 35 Whelen barrel installed. The maker is written on the underside and says "C R Pedersen & Son". The trigger is a "Bold" model. I added a Bell & Carlson aluminum bedded stock, free floated and glass bed the barrel, & adjusted the trigger to about 2 1/2-3 lbs. The scope mount pattern is not one that allowed for me to attach a picatinny or weaver rail. I tried some high Tilley mounts that fit but the bolt contacted the scope heavily. I contacted Murphy Precision and had them make me a custom stainless rail and coat it. I installed a set of Burris extra high mounts and now I can cycle it. The scope is a Vortex Crossfire II 3-9x50 with illuminated dot (V-Brite MOA Reticle).

    I intend on using cast boolits in this one almost exclusively due to the fact that it is a small ring mauser. I have a MP mold that is the copy of the RCBS-35-200 with hollow points and have cast them using some 93-4-4 lead. The BHN as cast was around 11 BHN. I tried to measure the twist in the barrel and the best that I have come up with is approximately 1 in 14 twist.

    Lastly, I ordered a new set of receiver bolts from Midway. The front bolt head was too wide so I put it in my drill and applied sandpaper until it fit. I kept the original rear bolt as the rear bolt was also too wide and it was easier to just re-use the old one for now.

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    Last edited by brasshog; 02-05-2023 at 05:45 PM.

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Here are some additional pictures

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  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Isn't the Swedish 96 a shorter lengthy action than a Model 98 Mauser.
    I have a Czech 98/22 that I rebarreled to .35 Whelen.
    I was going to do another on a Yugo 24/47 action.
    But that action also is shorter than standard 98's.
    So If I can get it to feed properly on the shorter action , I would be limited to the length of bullets I could shoot out of it.
    My .35 Whelen shoots very good with 250 gr Boolits , both jacketed and cast.
    I think if I had used the Yugo action , I would be limited to using 180 gr cast or maybe the 200 gr cast with the flat nose.
    I did not build the rifle,on that Yugo action, so I could be wrong.
    Last edited by LAGS; 02-04-2023 at 06:03 PM.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
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    I believe that you are correct. There are four sized of mauser actions. The small ring mauser is 0.250" shorter than the standard model 98 action. I can seat 250gr bullets in this rifle depending on the ogive. Also, the mauser 98 is a cock on opening whereas this is a cock on closing bolt. A mauser 98K would have been perfect for a rebuild but someone else did not go that route.

    I have some fired brass that doesn't show any pressure signs with factory 200gr ammo however I intend to work up loads slowly. If I start getting issues then this rifle may get rebarreled back to 6.5x55. I simply have too much money into this project to scrap it lol.

    Here are some of my measurements from left to right:
    1) Mihec copy of RCBS 35-200 (190gr Large Hollow Point)-2.994" COAL
    2) Accurate Molds 36-240K (240gr Solid)-2.999" COAL
    3) Hornady 250gr Interlok-3.258" Coal (Does not fit magazine and/or ejection port)
    4) Hornady 250gr Spire Point-3.084" COAL
    5) Nosler 250gr Partition-3.222" COAL (Barely fits)
    6) Speer 250gr HCSP Hot Core-3.220 COAL
    7) Hornady 200gr factory load-3.101" COAL
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    These measurements were conducted by inserting the bullet into the fired brass and slowly closing the bolt. The round was then loaded into the magazine. If the round was too long it was noted. I also attempted to eject said rounds to see if they cleared the ejection port area and noted if they had any issues. I do not remember if I made the rounds fit the magazine afterwards but I can check if anyone is curious.
    Last edited by brasshog; 02-04-2023 at 12:21 AM.

  5. #5
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    I would consider a 6.5-308. Never have a brass issue.
    "Come unto Me, all you who labor and are heavy burdened, and I will give you rest." Matthew 11:28
    Male Guanaco out in dry lakebed at 10,800 feet south of Arequipa.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    @missionary5155 Good idea. Perhaps 7mm-08 would be even better with the availability of both factory brass and a huge array of projectiles. I have a custom 358 Win that should be finished this month so I don't "need" a 35 whelen lol but it's nice to have. This is my spare hunting rifle for family and friends to use and/or just shooting cast boolits in. My two main guns for hunting are the 358 Win and a 300 Weatherby magnum.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by brasshog View Post
    @missionary5155 Good idea. Perhaps 7mm-08 would be even better with the availability of both factory brass and a huge array of projectiles. I have a custom 358 Win that should be finished this month so I don't "need" a 35 whelen lol but it's nice to have. This is my spare hunting rifle for family and friends to use and/smokeless powderor just shooting cast boolits in. My two main guns for hunting are the 358 Win and a 300 Weatherby magnum.
    Yea...the '08 class is a good one for that and Cast.. or... I have a Military stepped 7X57 that looks real good inside, and out.. Maybe a Trade??
    as I have a Turk that could use that barrel!!!
    Right now the Turk wears an 8X57 that is OK... 7x57 would have been Good there... but I have a Small Ring in military trim that shoots It's 7X57 well...

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy eastbank's Avatar
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    a friend has a 9.3x57 on a 96 swede action with no problems, i think he gets 2100-2200 fps with 250 gr bullets. i don,t think i would build a 96 in .35 whelen.

  9. #9
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    If you rebarrel you might consider the 35x57. Since you already have the Whelen dies they are shortened and used to form and then load the cases. Using 8x57 cases is the easiest as all you do is run them through the shortened FL die. Of course, the 35x57s can be formed from '06 cases or 35 Whelen cases. If the barrel is ordered in 35 Rem then all that is needed is a 35 Whelen die to finish chamber and headspace on the formed cases.

    The 35x57 is the correct length for the M96 action. The formed cases will also have the correct taper to feed smoothly and positively in the Mauser action without any alteration to the feed rails. The longer neck of the Whelen case makes it perfect for cast bullets to keep the lube grooves inside the neck. The oal of loaded cartridges, even with the longer 250 gr SP jacked bullets, is correct for the M96 magazine. The 35x57 case has the same case capacity as the 358W so load data for the 358W can be used. There is no factory cartridge as such so the psi level of loads is up to you. With a 14" twist barrel quality GC'd cast bullets can be driven upwards of 2500 fps with slower burning powders and maintain excellent hunting accuracy yet still remain in the lower 50,000 psi range. The 35x57 is an excellent cartridge for Mauser actions.

    You might consider converting the rifle to cock on closing.
    Larry Gibson

    “Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
    ― Nikola Tesla

  10. #10
    Boolit Master hc18flyer's Avatar
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    Seriously consider Larry's suggestion. He suggested it to me a few years ago for a 96 action, now I wish I had taken his advise. I ended up going with 8 x 57, still a fine cartridge, but I prefer .35 for cast bullets. hc18flyer

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by hc18flyer View Post
    Seriously consider Larry's suggestion. He suggested it to me a few years ago for a 96 action, now I wish I had taken his advise. I ended up going with 8 x 57, still a fine cartridge, but I prefer .35 for cast bullets. hc18flyer
    Allow me to second this.. Tho my 35 Remington Mauser works really well, I wish I would have gone 35X57...way back then..
    Good part??? Now I also have an 8X57!! But, Still prefer .358

  12. #12
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    @Larry Gibson- You are definitely on to something there Larry. I really hope that I don't need to rebarrel or rechamber this rifle. My current project rifle's barrel (358 Win) is costing me around $1100 to rebarrel and coat. Heck, I already have $1220 in this project as it is.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by brasshog View Post
    @Larry Gibson- You are definitely on to something there Larry. I really hope that I don't need to rebarrel or rechamber this rifle. My current project rifle's barrel (358 Win) is costing me around $1100 to rebarrel and coat. Heck, I already have $1220 in this project as it is.
    Ouch... You better just trade barrels with me.. the 7X57 won't hurt that action you have one bit!!!
    LOL

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by brasshog View Post
    @Larry Gibson- You are definitely on to something there Larry. I really hope that I don't need to rebarrel or rechamber this rifle. My current project rifle's barrel (358 Win) is costing me around $1100 to rebarrel and coat. Heck, I already have $1220 in this project as it is.
    Wow, "ouch" is right. $1100 seems a bit expensive to me and a Shilen 26" Pre-threaded, short chambered stainless barrel is maybe &400 +/-. There are other less expensive barrel makers also. Can't see where having a pre-threaded barrel screwed on the action [there should be minimal if any machine work needed] and finish reamed plus "coat" should cost $700(?). All that's needed is a barrel vise/action wrench, rented 35 Whelen finish reamer w/T-handle. The formed cartridges are the headspace gauges. No lathe work should be needed. Larry Potterfield has a decent video demonstrating how relatively easy it is.

    Not saying you need to rebarrel, just mentioning a good solution if you do. Hopefully that fine rifle should shoot well as is, especially with cast bullets.
    Larry Gibson

    “Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
    ― Nikola Tesla

  15. #15
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    I sent the barreled action (new rifle) to Hart barrels last January. Yes....over a year wait. The barrel isn't a pre-threaded barrel from another company from what I have read. They custom make each rifle barrel in house I believe. They are removing the 26" bull barrel (22-250) and replacing it with the 20" heavy sporter barrel made of stainless. They are cerakoating the entire rifle because I dislike the stainless barrels on blued receivers. I added that because it wasn't until after I had shipped the rifle that I realized that it was not a carbon barrel. The cerakoating is going to be something like $350.

  16. #16
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    First off, to the OP: you've got a very nice rifle. Thanks for posting about it.

    I just came across this thread so I've got some answers for the first few posts on it. The original stock broke at the forward action screw, and the action screw sheared off, because the recoil lug on the bottom of the receiver wasn't in contact with the recoil abutment on the stock. One of the advantages of glass bedding a stock is so that the receiver's recoil lug is in contact with this abutment, and the recoil forces aren't being transmitted into the action screws or the stock's wrist.

    Both the small ring Mauser's and the large ring Mauser's were designed to use Mauser cartridges. About the only actions that I know of (and there are bound to be more) that were modified to accept longer cartridges were the 1893 Turkish Mausers, and Colombian 98 Mausers when these rifles had a notch ground into the back of the forward receiver ring so that they could load 8x57 and 30-06 cartridges respectively. As a general rule: Mauser cartridges will fit into either large or small ring actions.

    There were three basic differences between Swedish actions and other small ring actions. First is metallurgy. Even the Swedish actions that were produced in Germany were made from imported steel that contained some nickle content. While most other small ring actions were made from carbon steel, the Swedish actions were made from an iron/nickle steel. The second difference is the bolt guide ridge on the bolt. This ridge, which is a common feature on all 98 actions, was first employed on the Swedish actions. The third distinguishing feature is the cocking piece with the weird lug sticking up from it. Why!? If they were going to have that knurled projection sticking up out of the cocking piece at least they should have made it double as a can opener.

    After those first posts the thread shifted into (good) suggestions about what to do, and how to do it. I don't have much to add in that regard so I'm just going to get a bag of popcorn and watch.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    If you do Not wish to re-barrel, nor re-chamber what you have... Quit putting factory fodder thru it... tho it is oft quoted that Swedish steel is some magically strong stuff, I cannot accept that it can make any Small Ring strong enough to digest 35 Whelens.. Not something I would Do..
    get some 200 or 230 rf gas checked Boolits, and find a Low to midrange load... I start at Red Dot.
    my $0.03

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    concerning larry's sugestion to convert to cocking on closing. i have read this often; but what is the advantage to doing that? i have 3 swedes a standard, a marksman and a G 63

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    If you do Not wish to re-barrel, nor re-chamber what you have... don't put Any factory fodder thru it... tho it is oft quoted that Swedish steel is some magically strong stuff, I cannot accept that it can make any Small Ring strong enough to digest 35 Whelens.. Not something I would Do..
    get some 200 or 230 rf gas checked Boolits, and find a Low to midrange load... I start at Red Dot.
    Checking a couple of my small ring actions... there will Not be any proper feeding of '06 length brass in them...
    some Turk small ring barrel shank, large ring actions, balk at '06, and Fail with 270....
    Set the barrel back and go 9.3X57 (which is what Larry is Doing, except with readily available components), and Not rechambered...just set back...
    my $0.03

  20. #20
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    A Hart barrel, Now I understand the cost. I doubt you'll need to rebarrel...... It should be an excellent shooter.
    Larry Gibson

    “Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
    ― Nikola Tesla

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check