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Thread: Resurface a mold block

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy Rp-'s Avatar
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    Resurface a mold block

    I got a used lee mold but one or two of the cavities are not squared on the ends or something. Whe. I cast I get so.e bullets that have a little mushroom to them. Is it worth trying have a machinist take a little off the top of the blocks or would it be cheaper just to get a new mold for 50 bucks? The sprue plate is locking tight so I think the corner of the cavity is warped maybe?

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  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    You could send it back to Lee, for 1/2 the cost of a new mold they will recondition back to like new...

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy Rp-'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLAHUT View Post
    You could send it back to Lee, for 1/2 the cost of a new mold they will recondition back to like new...
    I dont know why I didn't think about that. Thank you.

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  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master


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    That picture looks like a combination of poor fill out, dirty alloy, and base flashing to me. I'd have to see the mold, but I'm thinking you can fix this yourself. You will need to clean your pot for sure. Assuming your sprue plate is tight, I would raise the pot temp, get your mold hotter, but have a minimal sprue puddle to keep that plate cooler.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy Rp-'s Avatar
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    Well I'm looking into having g lee refurbish the mold it looks like half of their 65 dollar msrp, plus shipping both ways. I'm thinking that's going to balance out right around to that $50 price for a new mold on Amazon.

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  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy Rp-'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    That picture looks like a combination of poor fill out, dirty alloy, and base flashing to me. I'd have to see the mold, but I'm thinking you can fix this yourself. You will need to clean your pot for sure. Assuming your sprue plate is tight, I would raise the pot temp, get your mold hotter, but have a minimal sprue puddle to keep that plate cooler.
    Its only on 1 or 2 cavities though and im not having the issue with my 452 mold. I'll give that a try though before I do anything. It's gonna have to wait until this weekend though. Thank you.

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  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    I have fixed with a good flat file. Spray the surface black and carefully remove a little. With the paint you can tell where to remove the high spots. All the top will need to come down. A vibrating sander will work also. With the sprue plate on hold to the light and you can tell when you get it flat. IF ON THE END the sprue plate may be warped.
    Last edited by 45DUDE; 02-02-2023 at 01:05 AM.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    I would guess your sprue plate is warped and doesn't sit tight over the cavity. It might be sitting tight on the left and right edge, but it is arched up over the hole. Before you go hogging out the mold block, take off the sprue plate and flatten it on a sharpening stone or a piece of sandpaper on glass. After a few passes on a stone you can see if the entire bottom of the sprue plate is touching the stone or if it is arched.

    This pic is a bad sprue plate that has been about half way flattened out. You can see the machine marks near the sprue holes that haven't been removed all the way yet but one cavity is flat all the way across.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master


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    That's a good throught, it could be a bad sprue plate.

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy alfadan's Avatar
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    You might actually have the sprue plate tightened TOO much. If the mushroom bases are on the cavity/cavities furthest from the plate screw, its not letting the plate sit flat.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master maxreloader's Avatar
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    You could fly-cut on a mill but that would reduce the boolit weight. I would first try the suggestions of the previous posters.
    Looking for Ideal mold 419181 (44 Evans Long)
    "Joined Dates" are deceiving if you factor-in "lurk" dates.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by 45DUDE View Post
    I have fixed with a good flat file. Spray the surface black and carefully remove a little. With the paint you can tell where to remove the high spots. All the top will need to come down. A vibrating sander will work also. With the sprue plate on hold to the light and you can tell when you get it flat. IF ON THE END the sprue plate may be warped.
    Magic Marker works well too!

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    Lee sells replacement sprue plates I've purchased them from Midway.

    Bill

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy Rp-'s Avatar
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    I started casting some tonight with the temp up a little for better fill. No change. Looking at the mold it looks like the corners of a couple cavities are dinged. Looking at the bottom of the sprue plate and there are gouges in it. Im gonna chaulk this one up as done. Maybe I'll offer it here as a project mold if someone wants it cheap. Wife gave me the ok to replace it so that's a plus.

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  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master


    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
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    As been said, check the sprue plate for irregularities before any thing else.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    When I use a LEE mold much I take the sprue screw out and drill through from the side for a locking screw. They should come from the factory like that. One of my most accurate is a 45 H&G 68 style I filed down to 185 grain.

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