Back to working on a decade long project. My extractor ring broke. Having a hard time finding one online. Any ideas where to look. Numrich didn’t have any.
Also, how do you put them back on with out weakening the spring?
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Back to working on a decade long project. My extractor ring broke. Having a hard time finding one online. Any ideas where to look. Numrich didn’t have any.
Also, how do you put them back on with out weakening the spring?
My other forum, where I'm building a cabin....http://www.small-cabin.com/forum/6_3325_0.html#msg48687
Not to sound silly-- the best way to get the ring on without weakening is to avoid taking it off. That is-- the ring is good for quite a few flexes without weakening, but it will weaken eventually. I don;t know what the usual frequency if removal is, but I never remove mine. All I do to clean up the bolt is wipe it down.
Hick: Iron sights!
https://www.apexgunparts.com/israeli...ollar-nos.html
Open it just enough to get it on and never again (check proper alignment - there is a front and back). This is for a large ring mauser bolt.
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We never mess with our's either. If it rotates with finger pressure it will work.
If not, a squirt of carb cleaner and a drop of oil.
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The last one I got from Numrich ( to replace a missing one)required fitting - it was new production.
I leave them alone if possible. Even if your extractor breaks you don’t need to remove that collar.
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I have been shooting and working on mausers since about 1964 and I have yet to remove a collar. Cleaning a mauser bolt does not require the removal of the collar to get clean. If it ain't broke, don't mess with it. At least that is the way I lean, james
The only reason I have ever removed that ring was to jewel the bolt. Since my jeweling jig went MIA, I have not wanted to build another.
Back when I was messing around with Mausers, you could buy bolts on ebay for about as cheap as you could find just the extractor ring. Now, I don't know.
Robert
I have never had a extractor ring break.
I take them off every bolt when I rebuild the rifles or build customs out of them.
In fact,
I have several extra bolts that are taken down.
I mostly use snap ring pliers to spread open the rings to reinstall them.
I will bet that you can Tig weld that collar back into useable condition.
The extractor is what holds the collar closed , not any kind of spring tension.
I did look.
And Gun Parts Corp does have the collars in stock.
Look for 94 or 96 Swedish collars
Several sources out there and they are brand new collars, that will work just fine on M98 bolts and extractors
J Wisner
They are cumbersome when your chambering. when your going in and out trying to feel the bolt on cause gauge. I tried to keep it pinched with forcepts, i think that would work, if i had better forceps. Im keeping an eye out for a broken or cheap extractor to hack up and use for chambering
Ive replaced a few collars that got busted ,one in a blowup,and the rest by owners taking them off ........Ive never got one to sit flat in place like the factory did........there is a special Swedish army tool for. installing the collars ,but I cant see how it works. In my opinion ,they were installed red hot and soft by the factory ,which is why they sit flat......I may be wrong,and am ready to be corrected.
If you do Not want to remove...for whatever reason... a small wire wraps it tight...just gotta watch it is Aligned to raceway..Originally Posted by zymguy
That is a good idea. Grind the broken claw end back so it won’t interfere and it will keep the collar from interfering.
To the odd parts box to see if that old broken extractor is in there….
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That is a good idea. Grind the broken claw end back so it won’t interfere with headspace measurements and it will keep the collar from hanging up on the action rails.
To the odd parts box to see if that old broken extractor is in there….
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When I'm chambering a barrel I gently pinch the extractor collar tight, then wrap a small piece of wire around the extractor attachment lugs so that it won't spring open. So long as you keep the attachment lugs aligned with the raceway the bolt will cycle back and forth normally.
Whenever I have had to remove or replace an extractor collar, before the collar is placed on the bolt I take a stone and slightly chamfer the outer edge of the collar. This way it will not catch on the ejector or hang up on or scratch up the cartridges in the magazine. Little details like this make the gun run smoother.
Also, both large ring and small ring Mauser's use the same size extractor collar. I have seen some slight variations on the attachment lugs on a few collars, but for the most part any collar will usually fit any bolt.
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