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Thread: thin rims with a File??

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    I converted some 50 .303 british to .410.

    I just chucked each one in a cordless drill. Had a mill bastard file. Made a safe edge to go against the brass with 2 strips of duct tape.

    Only took 20 to 30 seconds to reduce the diameter and the thickness to where they would chamber. I checked each one as I did it and once it chambered fully I chucked it back up and did a little polish with a piece of 0000 steel wool. They looked good and work well in my old Mossberg bolt action .410. I fireformed and loaded mild loads of Red Dot under a .40sw cast bullet.

    Some of the bases don't blow all the way out, but they still work. and it isn't like I need the room for powder.
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  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-Tecs View Post
    The OAL case length will be shorter by the amount removed from the rim if you cut from the headstamp side plus you lose the headstamp.
    Losing the headstamp seems to be a plus since it will be wrong.

    Tim
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  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy Gobeyond's Avatar
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    I shortened the diameter of 45-90 casesesto fit 43 Mauser I bought the biggest drill that would fit the cases mouth chucked it in a drill and used a little hose clamp to hold it. Didn’t tighten it all the way down. Quick fast 20 cases, actually 2 1/2 hours. Then use file with protection. Hand held.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gobeyond View Post
    I shortened the diameter of 45-90 casesesto fit 43 Mauser I bought the biggest drill that would fit the cases mouth chucked it in a drill and used a little hose clamp to hold it. Didn’t tighten it all the way down. Quick fast 20 cases, actually 2 1/2 hours. Then use file with protection. Hand held.
    if you want to chuck a case by the mouth, put a plug in the mouth and then you can clamp it pretty hard without collapsing it. We had to do that when tensile testing tube welds, we put a plug in each end of the tube and then clamped it in the tensile test machine. I am thinking you could just use a bullet for the plug and then when you are done you could just pull the bullet.

    Tim
    Words are weapons sharper than knives - INXS

    The pen is mightier than the sword - Edward Bulwer-Lytton

    The tongue is mightier than the blade - Euripides

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by GhostHawk View Post
    I converted some 50 .303 british to .410.

    I just chucked each one in a cordless drill. Had a mill bastard file. Made a safe edge to go against the brass with 2 strips of duct tape.

    Only took 20 to 30 seconds to reduce the diameter and the thickness to where they would chamber. I checked each one as I did it and once it chambered fully I chucked it back up and did a little polish with a piece of 0000 steel wool. They looked good and work well in my old Mossberg bolt action .410. I fireformed and loaded mild loads of Red Dot under a .40sw cast bullet.

    Some of the bases don't blow all the way out, but they still work. and it isn't like I need the room for powder.
    What I did ... but in a drill press.. I also neede to take some off at the Head where it joins the Rim... Just a Bit, as they were Too Large there..

  6. #26
    Boolit Man
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    If you need to reduce the rim Diameter, a drill press and a file will do the job without much fuss as the diameter is not too critical. However if you need to reduce the rim thickness thats a different story. The thickness should be removed from the body side of the rim. That way you do not effect the primer pocket depth. Here is a pic of my set up in the lathe to reduce rim thickness. Its accurate and repeatable and its very easy to hold .001" +/- on the thickness. If the body needs thinned a little at the web that can be done the same way as well.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Friction drives the case, it sets in a pocket just large enough to fit the case head. Plug in the case mouth should fit snugly. Best to do with sized cases to the inside diameter of the mouth of the case is consistent so you don't have any problems getting the plug in and out.
    Sam
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 100_1502.JPG  

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    ^^^^ Nice

  8. #28
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by racepres View Post
    Got a 45/410 barrel here that will Not accept converted 303 brass due to fat rims. Nothing New there... but, want to use this brass in this gun!
    Thinking of turning brass with drill, or lathe... got it in my head that a Bastard file without "teeth" on the edge, yea, they prolly gots a name... but...IDK. Anyway want to trim from case side...Not head, as I do Not want primers proud.
    If anyone done this...LMK yer experience please...
    yes, could just do it with lathe... but.. A File seems actually Easier.. with my current eyesight and hand eye coordination... I will probably end up with some Rimless with the lathe!!!
    I drilled a short piece of 2x4 with holes to hold the 303 brass, then ran the exposed rim surfaces across the circular sanding disc on my belt sander, until the rims were thin enough to chamber.

    Firearm Nut

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firearm Nut View Post
    I drilled a short piece of 2x4 with holes to hold the 303 brass, then ran the exposed rim surfaces across the circular sanding disc on my belt sander, until the rims were thin enough to chamber.

    Firearm Nut
    Great concept... but, the area just forward of the rim is too large in diameter for My Particular 410 also.. using a Non-safety edge File gets em where I need em...

  10. #30
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firearm Nut View Post
    I drilled a short piece of 2x4 with holes to hold the 303 brass, then ran the exposed rim surfaces across the circular sanding disc on my belt sander, until the rims were thin enough to chamber.

    Firearm Nut
    Did you have to re-cut the primer pockets? Taking off the back side would make the primer pockets too shallow, or so I would think.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by 15meter View Post
    Did you have to re-cut the primer pockets? Taking off the back side would make the primer pockets too shallow, or so I would think.
    Use pistol primers...which IMO is best anyway

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy
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    I had a issue with one lot of Winchester brass in 45-70 that did not allow the breech to close on my Sharps. My Sharps has a tight chamber and a minimum rim recess. The brass was within specs for rim thickness but several thousands thicker than my R-P. Not having a lathe I used a piece of heavy glass and 320 grit sand paper. Held the case heads flat on the sand paper and removed enough for the breech to close. Only took a few thousands then used a uniforming tool on the primer pockets. Kind of slow and tedious but worked.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sgt H View Post
    I had a issue with one lot of Winchester brass in 45-70 that did not allow the breech to close on my Sharps. My Sharps has a tight chamber and a minimum rim recess. The brass was within specs for rim thickness but several thousands thicker than my R-P. Not having a lathe I used a piece of heavy glass and 320 grit sand paper. Held the case heads flat on the sand paper and removed enough for the breech to close. Only took a few thousands then used a uniforming tool on the primer pockets. Kind of slow and tedious but worked.
    Long as it was effective..good on ya

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check