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Thread: Type 99 Arisaka

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

    alamogunr's Avatar
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    Type 99 Arisaka

    I just acquired the subject rifle but haven't received it yet. Since I like to shoot my milsurps and this is my first(and likely my only) 7.7x58, I need reloading dies and load information. Any tips and info would be appreciated. I understand that the Japanese rifles are strong actions but I usually load mid level and lower since I'm shooting at paper anyway.

    Any recommendations for dies, powder, etc.?
    John
    W.TN

  2. #2
    Boolit Mold Ferryboatcaptain's Avatar
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    Not much difference in it and a 30-06 . Bullet needs to be 312 diameter . Hornady makes some good ones. IMR 4895 and a set of RCBS dies and you'll be shooting. FBC

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    brass: Grafs.com sells PRVI brass. Reloaders report that it's a decent brass. Norma is your second option. Your third option is to resize 30-06 brass or 8mm. I use military brass that has no 30-06 headstamp. You'll have to trim your resized case to length. The SAMI max case length can be shorter that chamber length. Anneal the case mouths.
    bullets: I've read more T99 Shooters prefer the Hornady bullets. From personal experience, Hornady bullets measure .312" and shoots better in my rifle than Speer .311 bullets.
    bore: Slug your bore to determine the right size bullet for your rifle.
    primers: I use WLR primers. I never experimented and compared primers.
    dies: I own and use RCBS dies. You might find a good deal on Ebay sometimes. I don't have experience with other dies for the 7.7x58. I suppose Lee will work.
    powder: I've tried R15 and R19. They worked fine but I ran out of powder so I changed. I tried IMR 4350. I like it but am running out of powder and need more. I think AA2700 has potential. Other Reloaders use 4064 and 4895. For cast bullets I plan to try IMR 4198, R7, and 2400.
    bullets: Hornady 150SP, Hornady 175 RN, Hornady 175 FMJBT, and Lee 185gr RN (I want to try the Lee 309-200gr RN and enlarged to .312" and the Lee .310-155 SP enlarged with PC later).
    target: I use a custom target that looks like an inverted radioactive symbol with the triangle the shape of the front sight. I cover the lower triangle with my front sight and center the circle the aperture. My last target had a red meat ball with the triangle at a 6 0'clock hold under the meat ball.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy Eddie1971's Avatar
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    Sierra has a listing in their manual for 7.7. I have a Type 99 too, but mine needs some help.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    Brass can be made easily from 30 06 or 270. If you don't have a manual you can download all you need here. https://marvinstuart.com/firearm/Manuals/

    Used dies are available on Ebay.
    NRA Benefactor Member NRA Golden Eagle

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Rapier's Avatar
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    Geez, if you want to shoot cast, slug your barrel, the very first thing. Then size to your groove diameter. You can powder coat and not use a GC by baking nose down in a hardware cloth rack. Size after PC.
    My 99 is surprisingly accurate using 4064 powder. With the jacketed I use the 303 round nose bullets of 180 grains. Noma brass I have found to be very soft at the web and the base, even moderate loads expand it after about four loadings. So I started converting US made 30-06 brass, which is much sturdier for reloading. I have owned several 99s including a converted 30-06 rifle. I kept a full original complete 99, just to have one in the rack.
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  7. #7
    Boolit Mold Ferryboatcaptain's Avatar
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    My rifle came from a pawnshop ($125) with a Lyman peep sight and they said they didn't know what the caliber was . I get it home and figure out its been converted to 30-06 . With 180 grain bullets I would be fine using it for deer ,elk or bear. Tried some 311 diameter 125 grain bullets and accuracy was ok but the longer heavier bullets shot better. FBC

  8. #8
    Boolit Master



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    You might want to review my post on using the 311290 boolit in my Japanese Arisaka type 99 rifle. The thread is here: https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...der&highlight=
    Mustang

    "In the beginning... the patriot is a scarce man, and brave and hated and scorned. When his cause succeeds, the timid join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." - Mark Twain.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master Harter66's Avatar
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    The example I load for has a .316 groove .
    I used 7.7 dies to form a couple of test cases .
    I've only shot it enough to get the 20 actual 7.7 case filled out . I immediately found that the 8×57 cases were a good fit for a neck down .
    Needing a .318 bullet I says to myself "I wonder if an 8×57 neck die sizes .320 or .316in deference to the 8×57J with the .318 groove . The Hornady die does and with a no touch expander it works fine so far the 323-170(175?) didn't work well in initial studies so a custom redneck fat 30 will get paper patched just to see where we are . I also have the NOE .312-230 to try patched up .

    Sharing the Metford rifling with the 6.5 sister , another over sized groove I found that the 266469 patched worked better than 27 cal bullets sized down .
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  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    I think you will enjoy playing with your rifle, with cast lead.
    These are sturdy, well made rifles, and have their own uniqueness in a collection, but I dont believe accuracy in a hallmark for them.

    I have a type 38 and a 99 that are original and in nice condition. I have not shot cast in the 6.5, only a few jacketed.
    It was not a difficult trick to shoot cast in the 99. I used the NOE 314-299 bullet, with about 12 grains of Unique under it.
    It showed promise at 50 yards, at around 1.5 inches or less, but the groups fell apart at 100 yards.
    I think my 4 -5 inch groups at 100 was due mostly to the crude sights.
    Japanese rife sights were made to shoot at people, in the jungle, at reasonably close ranges, in lowish light conditions.
    So target work is not probably not going to be their thing, and I am sure this accounted for my lack of real accuracy.
    That said, I like the rifle, and it and the type 38 hold a place in my Military rifle collection.
    I wont waste a lot of time, or expensive reloading components trying to make either of these into something they are not.
    Instead I will enjoy shooting them every now and again, with cast loads, and enjoy the history behind them.

    The 7.7 is as mentioned an easy cast for, and cases easily made out of 270, 8mm, or 3006.
    Last edited by lead collector; 01-27-2023 at 01:48 PM.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by lead collector View Post
    I think you will enjoy playing with your rifle, with cast lead.
    These are sturdy, well made rifles, and have their own uniqueness in a collection, but I dont believe accuracy in a hallmark for them.

    I have a type 38 and a 99 that are original and in nice condition. I have not shot cast in the 6.5, only a few jacketed.
    It was not a difficult trick to shoot cast in the 99. I used the NOE 314-299 bullet, with about 12 grains of Unique under it.
    It showed promise at 50 yards, at around 1.5 inches or less, but the groups fell apart at 100 yards.
    I think my 4 -5 inch groups at 100 was due mostly to the crude sights.
    Japanese rife sights were made to shoot at people, in the jungle, at reasonably close ranges, in lowish light conditions.
    So target work is not probably not going to be their thing, and I am sure this accounted for my lack of real accuracy.
    That said, I like the rifle, and it and the type 38 hold a place in my Military rifle collection.
    I wont waste a lot of time, or expensive reloading components trying to make either of these into something they are not.
    Instead I will enjoy shooting them every now and again, with cast loads, and enjoy the history behind them.

    The 7.7 is as mentioned an easy cast for from out of 270, 8mm, or 3006.
    As my OP mentioned this is my only Japanese rifle purchase. Your use of it almost mirrors my anticipated use. I will shoot it occasionally just for fun. I already have NOE molds 311299, 314299 and 316299. I hope that slugging the barrel will indicate I can use one of these although I may have to buy another size die to get closer. One of the first things I'm going to do is order Prvi Partizan Brass 7.7x58 Japanese. I don't have an excessive amount of brass suitable for reforming.

    Right now I'm very frustrated with UPS. I have to take my wife to the cancer center tomorrow(rifle is due to be delivered)for chemo and they won't let me sign in with an old password to reschedule delivery, won't let me set up a new account because my address already exists on their system. I guess I'm just going to have to play tag with them until they catch me at home or they send the rifle back to the sender.
    John
    W.TN

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    Need to update. UPS driver called when we were at the cancer center and volunteered to sign for me and leave the package in a secure, out of the way place. I told him where to leave it and thanked him. Well satisfied so far. Rifle is in very good condition. Stock has a few handling marks but little else.

    Slugged the barrel today. Was in a hurry so didn't pay attention to number of grooves. Groove diameter came to .3155". Since I have a NOE .316299 mold, I should be fixed when the dies and brass finally get here. I ordered these from Graf. Web page said only one RCBS die set in stock. After two days and no word, I hope they could find it.

    Thanks for all the good information
    John
    W.TN

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    It will have four grooves ,Metford rifling--no sharp edges ----and hopefully a chrome bore ......you can generally see the chrome ring in the muzzle .....although not all have chrome bores.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    I noticed that the rifling was not as distinct as I am used to. Also, the description in the Empire Arms posting that I bought it from stated that the bore was chrome plated. I've purchased several rifles from Empire and have always found their descriptions to be accurate.
    John
    W.TN

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check