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Thread: Melting monotype letters and making ingots.

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy Krh1326's Avatar
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    Melting monotype letters and making ingots.

    Guys,
    I fear that I may have gotten over my head, and made a huge mistake.
    I’ve acquired a decent cache of monotype type letter blocks, and attempted to melt and make mini muffin ingots.

    The melt was very odd…. To me…. compared to what I’ve seen with much lower/ softer alloys.
    There was a very thick, dense layer on top, that resembled some kind of spaceman suit bright aluminum colored…. “Pudding” for lack of better word. I kept conducting saw dust, and wax fluxing and skimming, until it was gone, and just a very fluid “normal” looking shiny lead melt remained.
    I ladled this into mini muffin tins.

    As these muffins cooled, they took on a very very dull aluminum look, a color I’m not so experienced to recognize. So I’m a little on edge and anxious, that I’ve ruined my monotype.

    I’m cleaning up, and I went to move the coffee can that I used for the skimmins, and that sucker is heavy! I tapped the deposits with my skimming ladle, and it is rock solid.

    Temp of melt stayed in 600-780 F range. It was difficult to control today, due to wind.

    Did I skim off good stuff, that should have remained ?

    EDIT: I took the can of skimmings, and fired it again, I did get a lot of molten metal, back out of it. I actually got almost a full pan worth of muffins, back from it. They look different, than all the rest. The first ones were a dull aluminum color, these from skimming can, are the color of polished steel and shiny.

    So I think I may have separated out something, then reclaimed it.
    Last edited by Krh1326; 01-20-2023 at 05:58 PM.
    Just because it’s a bad idea…
    …. Doesn’t mean it won’t be a good time !

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Greetings,

    I recently melted down some MonoType letters into ingots.

    When melting, there will be a point where you get a "slushy/pasty" compound on the surface.

    This is the metal entering into the transformation from solid to liquid.

    Do not panic. Increase the heat and keep stirring soon the metal will eventually become all liquid.

    At this point flux well and pour into ingot moulds.

    Cheers,

    Dave

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    You skimmed off antimony/tin from the melt. You didn't get all of it but it's less than the original, obviously. Throw your dross and ingots back in the pot. When it gets to the foamy/slushy mess on the top stage, take the back side of your spoon and grind the slush into the side of the pot and stir. Keep at it till it's all back in solution except for the sawdust or what has turned to carbon. A little wax fire on top localizes the heat to get the good stuff liquid and stirred in too.

    Monotype, stereotype, and linotype is fine the way you get it as it's own recognizable ingot form.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master elmacgyver0's Avatar
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    What is "monotype?"
    I have heard of linotype and have some, but I have never heard of monotype.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by elmacgyver0 View Post
    What is "monotype?"
    I have heard of linotype and have some, but I have never heard of monotype.
    Used for single letter / number type in printing.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy Krh1326's Avatar
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    I thank you all. I did melt it back down, and started it all over again. Much betterer.
    Just because it’s a bad idea…
    …. Doesn’t mean it won’t be a good time !

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    By any chance, did the type look like this?

    https://castboolits.gunloads.com/att...8&d=1535700030

    I was told that the bottom part of the blocks aren’t lead.

  8. #8
    Boolit Bub rustyshooter's Avatar
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    Cool

    Linotype was created on a linotyoe machine and will be strips of letter/sentences. Monotype is individual letters and block symbols or logos that were assembled into compositor sticks and grouped together to make full pages in a chase. There are also spacers/strips that were used. All of these were used specifically for letterpress printing. These 2 types of lead will soon be extinct much like lead wheel weights are in CA. Good news is that 1# of Lino lead will harden 10# of ww lead. So hang on to your lino. Or at the very least use it sparingly. Not many of us left that have letterpress experience. It was abandoned once offset presses became mainstream by the 60’s. I was taught letterpress throughout high school in the 70’s but didn’t use it in the industry after that except for numbering carbonless forms. But we did have a letterpress.
    Last edited by rustyshooter; 01-21-2023 at 11:37 AM.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
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    A low temperature melt, like yours, allows antimony & copper to float on the surface.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Rapier's Avatar
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    Expensive cards and embossed letterhead use lino or mono type. I use it in my alloy. I run near 1200 degrees to create the alloy outside with Propane and 100 pound cast iron pot. I use commercial flux. If you are alloying antimony and arsenic, chilled lead shot, in your mix with lino it has to get real hot to alloy, not just mix. It is not worth a crap in lumps, like lumps in cream of wheat.
    You can alloy using clean clip on wheel weights and chilled lead shot. I use 70% ww, 20% Lino or Mono, 10% CLS makes a 2500-2700 fps plain base PC AR bullet with no GC and sub 1/2" at 100.
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  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master

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    The different kinds of type that I have melted required more heat and work than some other things that I have melted. Much like your experience. I have left most of mine in its original form so that when my survivors go to sell it the buyer can recognize it.

  12. #12
    Boolit Bub rustyshooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rapier View Post
    I use 70% ww, 20% Lino or Mono, 10% CLS
    Sorry….what is CLS?

  13. #13
    Boolit Master MarkP's Avatar
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    There also Foundry type. I bought a barrel full of type. When sorting it out my neighbor came down to see what I was doing. He owned a print shop that was passed down from his father. He told about all of the pieces, and critiqued the linotype. Pointed up things that were wrong with the sticks. Very interesting man he died about 10 yrs ago.

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by elmacgyver0 View Post
    What is "monotype?"
    I have heard of linotype and have some, but I have never heard of monotype.
    http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm
    Monotype 9% tin, 19% antimony, 72% lead

    https://www.matweb.com/search/datash...03fa2dc9320ca8
    78Pb-15Sb-7Sn
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  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Since I bought lots of raw antimony from California supplier, I smelted up some Mono Type.
    I got the pure Tin and lead from a place here in Arizona.
    The antimony took the longest to smelt down and more dissolved in the melted lead.
    Then I would add the Tin.
    It is a great very hard metal.
    I use it for casting my lead balls for my Ball Mill to make my own Black Powder

  16. #16
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  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Antique dealers often pay impressive prices for larger monotype pieces. Explore this before you go melting them down.
    Cognitive Dissident

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin c View Post
    By any chance, did the type look like this?

    https://castboolits.gunloads.com/att...8&d=1535700030

    I was told that the bottom part of the blocks aren’t lead.
    Those are what we called cuts. IME the bottoms on yours are probably similar in composition to linotype or lino spacers and in many cases lino spacers were stacked and used in place of the block shown in your pic. The engraved part on yours looks like lead alloy as well composition can vary. What I have seen is both zinc and magnesium used as the printing image. I have also seen these with wood blocks instead of lead like yours

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    I use my type metal as it comes to add to my pot when making alloy. No real point in melting into ingots, its already in measurable form.
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  20. #20
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Krh1326 View Post
    Guys,
    I fear that I may have gotten over my head, and made a huge mistake.
    I’ve acquired a decent cache of monotype type letter blocks, and attempted to melt and make mini muffin ingots.

    The melt was very odd…. To me…. compared to what I’ve seen with much lower/ softer alloys.
    There was a very thick, dense layer on top, that resembled some kind of spaceman suit bright aluminum colored…. “Pudding” for lack of better word. I kept conducting saw dust, and wax fluxing and skimming, until it was gone, and just a very fluid “normal” looking shiny lead melt remained.
    I ladled this into mini muffin tins.

    As these muffins cooled, they took on a very very dull aluminum look, a color I’m not so experienced to recognize. So I’m a little on edge and anxious, that I’ve ruined my monotype.

    I’m cleaning up, and I went to move the coffee can that I used for the skimmins, and that sucker is heavy! I tapped the deposits with my skimming ladle, and it is rock solid.

    Temp of melt stayed in 600-780 F range. It was difficult to control today, due to wind.

    Did I skim off good stuff, that should have remained ?

    EDIT: I took the can of skimmings, and fired it again, I did get a lot of molten metal, back out of it. I actually got almost a full pan worth of muffins, back from it. They look different, than all the rest. The first ones were a dull aluminum color, these from skimming can, are the color of polished steel and shiny.

    So I think I may have separated out something, then reclaimed it.
    As fc60 said..lino and mono take some heat and yes a thick paste forms on top. Keep heating and storing. Flux at the end and skim ash off.

    Dull aluminum ingoted are about right.

    If you skimmed the thick off..re smelt your skimming dross.

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