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Thread: Marlin 81DL Extractor (Old Style)

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Marlin 81DL Extractor (Old Style)

    Starting a new project on an old Marlin 81DL 22 bolt action recently acquired. Appears to be made in the 40's. Not worked on one of these before and look forward to the outcome. There are questions, though. This early model year took two separate extractor parts, unlike the newer models that had a collar on the bolt front that utilized a spring clip. According to Gun Parts Corp the left extractor and right extractor (old style) can be purchased. I take it that looking down the bolt in the receiver from behind the right extractor is on my right of the forward facing bolt and left extractor is on my left to determine which extractor to purchase? If I am not accurate please set me straight.
    Photos of what I am working on:
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    As shown, the missing extractor slot still has the extractor plunger and a strong spring behind it.
    The flat portion of the bolt front is the bottom that works with the clever feed mechanism that allows this rifle to cycle 22 shorts, long and long rifle ammo.

    Yes, this is a dirty ol gal that needs a major cleaning up. The barrel, mag tub and receiver are currently getting a bath in Por15 Rust Remover, as they look far worse than this bolt does. But I have faith it will clean up to make a fun truck gun for squirrels and the like. Had grey squirrel and gravy for two lunches last week thanks to this long neglected rifle and deemed it worthy of a bit of my evening hours.

    Any assistance you can pass through my way will be much appreciated. That bolt looks very tricky to reassemble once it is taken apart.
    Last edited by ChristopherO; 01-19-2023 at 10:01 AM.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Is there a little flat spring like guide on top of the chamber, that keeps the cartridges from stovepiping? Mine was missing something, and some times didn't feed well. I just used it in the pighouse with rat shot. It dissapeared, I must have given it to a neighbor years ago.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    I'll look into this. I had read in researching that if the extractor spring needs replaced the barrel will need to be removed from the receiver. Wasn't quite sure what that meant until you mentioned it. Will look into this further based on your input. Much appreciated.

  4. #4
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    Texas by God's Avatar
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    The bolt face alignment spring fits into the groove on top of the bolt itself. The barrel must be pulled to replace it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    After more research and discussing this with a gentleman that runs Classic Firearms & Parts LLC I ordered the parts needed, including the cartridge alignment spring you gentlemen mentioned above.. Thank you for bringing this to my attention. He filled me in on what it takes to put that spring in after the barrel is popped off, but suggested to see if the rifle feeds well enough without it as realigning the barrel to the pin holes in the receiver it is a buger. I've shot the rifle already and it will feed cartridges but they cannot be slammed into the chamber fast and rough without it. If I decide to add it then it will be in my stock for the task.

    The bolt disassembly, thorough cleaning, left extractor installation and reassembly might be a bit intimidating. It hosts small springs and is known to be difficult to put back together. Once the parts arrive I'll set aside time to tackle that job.

    This evening energy was spent wiping down the barrel/receiver along with all the other metal parts that have been soaking in POR15. All the rust is gone. The barrel has some large pitting areas on the exterior that are too deep to try to sand away. Truck gun. I keep telling myself that to keep this project in perspective. Three coats of Brownell's Oxphoblue and 0000 steel wool has given it a deep blue now. It will never look showroom pretty, but knowing that it shoots straight makes it right handsome in its own right. A coat of Boiled Linseed Oil on the exterior to protect the metal from relapsing into a rust bucket and it is hanging from a wire to dry as this is typed.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    Congrats on the 81DL. They have a soft spot for me. Getting the barrel off of the receiver can be challenging, but it's not rocket science. I've done it several times. If you want any hints or tips, let me know.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master schutzen-jager's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChristopherO View Post
    I'll look into this. I had read in researching that if the extractor spring needs replaced the barrel will need to be removed from the receiver. Wasn't quite sure what that meant until you mentioned it. Will look into this further based on your input. Much appreciated.
    that spring on top is a feeding guide that enables it to feed .22 shorts - if broken it requires barrel removal [ not an easy job ] to replace it - if you only use .22 l, lr it is not needed at all -
    member of my club bought one cheap [ $30.00 ] last year + it never would extract - we finally switched R+L extractors - problem solved - r/s is the side the bolt handle is on with bolt in action -
    Last edited by schutzen-jager; 01-20-2023 at 04:13 PM.
    never pick a fight with an old man - if he is too old to fight he will just kill you -
    in this current crisis our government is not the solution , it is the problem ! -

    ILLEGITIMI NON CARBORUNDUM

    as they say in latin

  8. #8
    Boolit Master schutzen-jager's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    The bolt face alignment spring fits into the groove on top of the bolt itself. The barrel must be pulled to replace it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    that is a feeding guide to enable jam free feeding of .22 shorts -
    never pick a fight with an old man - if he is too old to fight he will just kill you -
    in this current crisis our government is not the solution , it is the problem ! -

    ILLEGITIMI NON CARBORUNDUM

    as they say in latin

  9. #9
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    Yes, that’s true. On the tubular magazine guns it does.
    To the OP- I hope it feeds correctly. Those can be hair pullers to get “right”.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy

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    If I recall correctly, the left and right extractors are not the same. For my 80DL, I bought both, and replaced them both, just thinking the old ones may have been worn or rounded. And I recall them being little buggers to deal with, those little springs are strong. You have to sort of cam them into place, and I think I used good hemostats.
    I suggest you clean out a little closet and do it in there, so you can find parts, HA! Good luck.
    By the way, my 80DL with peep sight is a pleasure to shoot and I would never part with it.
    Dan

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Next Phase; Installation to Commence

    "I suggest you clean out a little closet and do it in there, so you can find parts, HA! Good luck."

    LOL! Excellent suggestion. I may have to clear out a small walled in space for this operation. If any of you fine gentlemen don't mind to share what all is involved in installing the left extractor I'm all ears. Does the extractor stud and spring have to be removed for this procedure or just the use of judicial force be required to manipulate the new extractor into that slot by pressing firmly onto the extractor stud and fastening it into place?

    I noticed that a package from Kingston, NY was waiting in the mailbox this afternoon.
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    The sight elevator install will be simple.

    The cartridge guide spring; maybe, maybe not for now. After removing all the rust from the barrel/receiver, giving it a good cold bluing and coating it with Boiled Tung Oil to resist rust I am not so sure I want to take a torch to the metal that might be needed to remove said barrel to install that little part. Then again, at some point I just might because I like to use shorts to squirrel hunt with. For now, I want to see how this will all work out when the left extractor is finally in place.
    Testing of loading from the magazine tube before tearing this all down went pretty well. I couldn't slam a round in fast and recklessly but they would chamber and fire. If I cycled the bolt too quickly the bullet on the 22lr would begin to bend in the brass case as the grip of the case mouth to the bullet's heal isn't secure enough to take the force. Slow and steady allowed clean chambering.

    Upon firing the empty brass would also extract from the chamber but not flip out from the receiver very well. Discussing this project with you who posted on this thread focused my attention on this needed item. So these little parts should get this rifle up and running pretty soon. I'll keep you posted.
    Again, any and all advice is appreciated. Fingers crossed.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    The More I Learn....

    Seems every new project increases my knowledge base, not necessarily the easy way, though. Studying the new extractor now give me the idea how this piece is supposed to fit into that crevice. What I am seeing here is that the old extractor broke, leaving the insert shank in the bolt body.
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    This view from underneath is the shank still stuck in place:
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    Once good outcome is that the extractor plunger and spring did not get lost into the abyss when the extractor broke but are safely housed where they belong. Therein lies the rub, getting the small broken shank out of the bolt, though, while it is still under pressure. I'll need to lean on my extremely handy brother for a third or forth hand to accomplish this task.
    The fun continues.........

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy

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    Well there you go, that little broken piece kept the others in place.
    I have no suggestions other than doing this in a place where the small parts can be found after they launch themselves. I once found a small safety detent ball in my beard, after looking for 15 minutes for it on the floor!
    It may help to drape a towel over it. Maybe use a dental pick or scribe to pry out the broken part.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
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    The Cartridge Guide Spring (the small flat spring in position over the bbl facing back towards the bolt) is generally needed for 100% feeding of the .22LR cart
    (It seems to be a Marlin thing,,the Model 39 has one as well)

    To remove the bbl, take the cross pin out of the recv'r on it's under side.
    The bbl is a tight slip fit in the tubular recv'r,,,no threads.

    Place a 'Witness Mark' anywhere under the wood line with a punch so it shows the present allaignment of the bbl and recv'r.
    This will help you when you put them back together.

    You have to punch/push the bbl out of the recv'r. But you do want to damage the breech face of the bbl.

    We used to have a fixture to set the bbl'd action in at the factory. Then with a hand wheel and threaded shaft, it was a simple matter to press the bbl out of the frame.

    Short of that, you will be either holding onto the recv'r and punching the bbl out by way of a large drift/punch thru the recv'r. Use a copper or brass punch or at least a copper or brass disc against the breech face to avoid damaging it when driving the bbl out of the recv'r.
    The recv'r is a simple hollow tube,,be careful not to crush it in a vise trying to grip it too tightly.
    ..Or...Holding onto the bbl and using a sleeve dropped down over the bbl to use as a way to drive the recv'r off of the bbl.

    The latter avoids striking the breech face of the bbl.

    You may get lucky and get one wher the bbl and recv'r simply pull apart with your hands..Sometimes they'd do that.
    We used to knurl the bbl shank to tighten the up if needed. But if reasonably tight, there is no need to.

    Once the bbl is off, Clean up the shank, remove any of the old Cart Guide Spring,,often there is the broken off base still in there along with packed in old grease and powder, etc.

    The Replacement Spring just sets in the small channal with the bent end down in the slot. Nothing else holds it there except the assembly of the recv'r and bbl together.

    Put some grease on the bbl shank and inside the recv'r where the bbl fits.
    Slide the two back together. Check the Witness Marks to keep them in line as you tap the recv'r back onto the bbl.
    Small radial adj can be made as you drive it on but the marks must line up so that cross line goes back into place.
    Drive the pin back in,,it may need some straightening and cleaning up of the ends first. They are usually a bit battered from assembly.


    The Left Hand 'Extractor' is really a Cartridge Guide though it does offer some extraction effort to that need.
    The LH extractor does not have the defined 'claw' of the RH Extractor. That so the extracted case will easily be pushed off of the bolt face to the right by the Ejector and not have much resistance frome the LH Extractor.

    Your Ejector is a simple piece of Spring Wire (Music Wire it's often called).
    It has a loop formed to it at it's back end and it held to the underside of the recv'r by the TakeDown stud.
    The forward end of the wire is simply formed in a bend to place the tip of the wire so it rides in the left hand slot in the underside of the bolt head.
    There should be a slight amt of tension downward on that tip as the bolt rides over it,,that keeps the wire/tip firmly in position and up as high as it can be so it strikes the rim of the case as it is pulled to the rear on the face of the bolt.

    The very tip of the wire should be stoned down a little (rounded) so it doesn't grab or catch in the groove in the bolt head.
    A touch of grease in that groove is a good maint point when cleaning the rifle and a good check to do to make sure the wire is in proper position.
    Being a simple piece of wire, it is easily bent downward when single loading for example. Fail to Eject complaints are usually traced to that ejector wire being bent out of place even a small amt.

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy

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    2152hq, you made an excellent post! Thanks for the education!

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    You gentlemen are simply incredible with the amount of generous knowledge you are willing to share. A simple Thank You doesn't suffice, but Thank You!

    I was going to include in my purchase order that spring extractor 215hq wrote about but was told that was designed for the Model 80 because the Model 81 doesn't need it. Hmm, I suppose it does and with this detailed description I can envision why it is used. Extremely thorough description.

    I can attest that the barrel won't pull apart in my hands. I'll need to find a brass punch of appropriate size soon to address this part of the rehab. Still much to do.

    I'll continue reply with updates as the job progresses.

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Working on old guns is certainly a mind expanding experience.
    "Come unto Me, all you who labor and are heavy burdened, and I will give you rest." Matthew 11:28
    Male Guanaco out in dry lakebed at 10,800 feet south of Arequipa.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    Bolt Work

    Had the time and extra hand from my brother yesterday to install the new left 'Cartridge Guide' that I had previously called the left extractor, which 215hq shared the correct designation for this part:
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    With these two picks it took seconds for me to hold the plunger back while my brother slide the old stud from the broken guide out of the bolt recess and insert the new part into place. What I envisioned as a nightmare of small flying parts shooting off never to be found again was thankfully incorrect. I just kept pressure on the plunder and realizing that there was no reason to release the hold instructed him to slide the new guide in without any delay.

    The next item we worked on was trying to remove the striker stop screw, but the decades of pressure provided by the bolt spring has pushed on the sleeve inside the bolt to the point that the screw is somewhat angled and off kilter in its hole. It will spin in place but won't budge from its chamfer on the exterior of the bolt. Even taking all the spring pressure off the sleave doesn't allow it to free up.
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    Yet, the mechanism works, which means I'll just leave it as it is for the time being. I was hoping to take the bolt completely apart for a full cleaning. Instead degreaser and brake cleaner was used extensively to do the job without the take down.
    The rust on the striker knob cleaned up and cold blued very well. I had thought about removing the pin in the knob to see if taking the bolt apart could be accomplished in that manner but don't have a punch that small handy.
    The bolt body cleaned up and the surface rust removed with a scotchbrite pad. Things are moving along.

    I am soaking the receiver/barrel junction with penetrating oil currently. The brass punches on hand are only about 7/6" diameter. Not covering the whole face of the barrel face I am not sure if this will be wise to beat on such a small punch. 5/8" is optimum. Thinking about putting a plug of lead over the barrel face for this task. Another day or so soaking first.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    Barrel Removal: Cartridge Guide Spring Installation

    This went easier than I thought it would:

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    Woke up this morning and decided this was the time to remove the barrel on this old rimfire. Having soaked in ZAP P Oil since Thursday evening I began scrounging for the proper tools to complete this job. A section of 1/2" ID copper water pipe fit perfect as a sleeve inside the receiver. A 405 grain 45 caliber WFN boolit was hammer flattened / fattened out to about 7/16" diameter, sliding down the copper pipe to sit on top of the barrel face. The brass punch actually measures 3/8". The lead plug fits the face of the barrel much better and takes the impact of the brass punch very well.
    Using the wooden covered jaws of my bench vise to hold the shoulder of the receiver yet allowing the barrel to hang down unsecured was the right set up for this operation. With my free hand holding onto the barrel below the vice two firm, but not heavy, taps with a two pound sledge through the brass punch into the lead plug released the barrel with aplomb. A couple light taps freed the barrel completely from the receiver. That was completely satisfying.

    Next step, after cleaning, greasing the barrel shank and slipping the guide spring onto the proper spot on the barrel was to reinstall the two parts back together again. The witness marks on the bottom of the barrel and receiver were quite helpful to permit this to be a one and done action.
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    This receiver is stamped with a lone 'J'. No 'M' is present.

    Straightening and deburring the barrel pin made it fit well enough to be reused. I measured the two ends of this pin and found out that one side was slightly smaller in diameter than the other to facilitate ease of installing, while the thicker end kept everything tight and secure. It is fun to dig into a project previously not attempted and come away successful and with more knowledge than when begun.

    All parts are back together except the stock, which I am reshaping, sanding and prepare for final staining and finishing. But, I did fasten the barreled receiver in the stock long enough to see how the Shorts and LR's will function. I've yet to purchase a cartridge guide rod for the tubular magazine, but that will be my next acquisition now that I've gotten this far. Still, with the barrel pointed up a LR, Short, LR, Short was put into the tub mag and they all fed and chambered without a hitch. Once this rifle is fully put together I'll post photos of this interesting restoration.
    Last edited by ChristopherO; 02-04-2023 at 01:13 PM. Reason: Spell Correct

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    Restoration Complete: Assembled and Tested

    Restoration project on this old Marlin 81DL is basically finished. The stock is finished with an oil based stain and Boiled Linseed Oil. I may continue to add more BLO but for now I want to shoot and sight in this dandy rifle. All the refurbished, reblued and new parts have been affixed in their respective places. Even the new Cartridge Guide Rod inserted in the magazine tube without getting stuck, though it slid better with a light coat of oil to help insert it in smoothly:

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    The blocky stock was pretty ugly. Before finishing rasps and files were applied to shape and streamline it better in my hands. I kept the wider fore end that steps out just past the receiver area, but did round out the edges to dress it up to suit my tastes. The butt stock was bulky and wide, lacking any palm swell and eye appeal. It is now modified to hold in my trigger hand with much more delight than before. JB Weld on the butt plate filled in the decades of abuse and chips. Black leather dye blended all together after sanding it to fit the trimmer butt stock.
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    I didn't get around to photo journaling this project until I dipped the barrel/receiver into the POR 15 Rust Remover. But to give you an idea what it looked like, these two old single shot 12 gauges were wrapped in the same blanket for decades that the Marlin 81DL was.
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    This has been a fun winter project to hold my attention. It will never look brand new, with the finger tip pitting on the barrel along with the salt and pepper speckles elsewhere on the metal surfaces, but the fact that it cycles shorts and LR's interchangeably intrigued me enough to proceed. And, yes, it does perform those duties in cycling the cartridges pretty darn well. If I load the mag tube too full the new spring in the guide rod can cause some trouble. Not every time, but it has. Still, I've loaded and shot it enough now to have good success with LR and Shorts feeding whether all one type or both types staggered in the magazine. The mechanism isn't designed to slam the bolt in hard, but I've matured enough as a shooter to know when to finesse an action with respect.

    Interesting, the barrel is longer than other 22's I've shot and that extra length almost acts like a suppressor compared. The LR's aren't too loud at all. The CB cap shorts, well, let's say I am glad my BIL was standing beside me when I shot the first one because I thought the bullet must have stuck in the barrel. There was hardly any sound at all. When I said I was afraid of a squib load he confirmed it flew because he saw the dirt pop up just under the jug cap I was aiming at 35 yards away. The next CB cab hit the jug and the puncture of the plastic in and out was louder then the non-report of the rifle.

    All in all, I'm pleased to have rescued this rifle from oblivion and continuing to rust down or be thrown away. It has to go with me to the squirrel woods next Fall. I am looking forward to the pleasure it will bring.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check