Lightly rusted mold

[long_arm]

i have a Lyman that has developed light rust on the exterior. What is the best way to remove this?

After removal, what is the best way to store it (them)?

BTW, yes I did look throughout the site for this info before posting. Seems like it would be obvious.. but I sure didn't see it.
Anyway, I appreciate your input!

[Winger Ed.]

If it's light, you might be able to just wipe it off with a oily rag. And if it's only on the outside, it's no big deal.

If I'm going to use a mold fairly soon, I hose it off with motor cycle chain oil when I'm done for awhile.
After I had one ruin-- for long term storage I use a rather drastic measure. I put the mold blocks in a pint jar of motor oil.
It can't get much messier when I take one out to use it-- but I haven't had one rust out since.

[GregLaROCHE]

If it’s only on the outside it’s no big deal. Try wiping it off like Ed said. If that’s not enough and it’s really bothering you, try one of the many rust removers, but only on the outside. Most tend to etch the metal, even if not very much.

I spray all my molds with Ballistol and store them in Rubbermaid type boxes.

[pworley1]

Ed's Red oil on a rag will usually remove the surface rust and prevent it from coming for several weeks. The oil is made from just mixing equal amounts of ATF and kerosene.

[Screwbolts]

Ed's Red oil on a rag will usually remove the surface rust and prevent it from coming for several weeks. The oil is made from just mixing equal amounts of ATF and kerosene.

And I believe Ed's Red also needs equal part of acetone and mineral spirits, (Paint Thinner) 4 ingredients to be Ed's red. if Memory serves me correctly.

[Bent Ramrod]

You can also boil the blocks in distilled water. This will convert the fine brown rust to black oxide, like slow rust bluing. Any loose oxide either comes off in the boiling water or can be wiped off afterwards with 0000 steel wool or even a paper towel.

Heavier rusting might take several boiling and wiping sessions until the oxide flakes loosen and come out of the pits in the metal. But the blocks stay blue/black rather than the gray-rat gray finish that vigorous scrubbing or rust removers leave.

If you live above 4000 feet elevation, this trick may not work. A certain temperature seems to be necessary in the boiling water to convert the brown oxide to black oxide.

[long_arm]

Very helpful. Thanks fellas.

[uscra112]

If you live above 4000 feet elevation, this trick may not work. A certain temperature seems to be necessary in the boiling water to convert the brown oxide to black oxide.

Pressure cooker takes care of that, but I think this is a job for Coca-Cola.

[farmbif]

wow, lots of options on removing rust. I start with 0000 steel wool if more abrasion is needed 000 steel wool and oil, kroi, 3 in 1, or whatever oil or rust penetrant is handy.
ive even scrubbed old rusted guns with 0000 steel wool and generous amounts of hoppes gun oil and the blue remains and rust gets removed. lots of elbow grease

[kevin c]

I have no iron molds, but the hardware and sprue plates are steel which I occasionally see rust on. A bath in 10% citric acid (available on line for home food canning) in warm water takes it all off.

It will also take off all the unrusted finish on the part as well. My understanding from reading here (it’s stickied somewhere) is that there is a “passivation” that occurs with the citric acid that replaces the bluing and is rust resistant, so I don’t reblue, just a wipe with a bit of oil and seal with VCI paper or tabs as extra insurance.

[45workhorse]

Drop it in a tub of evaporust, it works with no scrubbing