I use the Lee 4 die sets in my Hornady LNL AP, the Dillon 650 is hardly ever used. The lee dies are little short for the Dillon setup anyways.
In Position One, I use a sizer/decapper with Squirrel Daddy pins. in Position 2 I use a Powder Through flaring die or a universal flaring die. Then Hornady Powder drop station. Then Lee Bullet seating die with VERY Little crimp, this is a taper crimp delivered in the usual seating die.
Then I almost always do a full crimp using a FCD. Its not really a taper crimp or roll crimp - the FCD delivers a crimp by squeezing the case mouth after it is inserted all the way into the die, and is more adjustable than taper crimps that also seat the boolit. Doing this make the seating and crimping 2 seperate actions, and preserves the straightness of the case mouth. Works better for me. I learned this while loading major .40 in lead using a special "U" die (under-size made by Lee - something the other mfgs don't do). the U Die prevents the bullet from seating properly when its also getting crimped - but removing the crimp from the seating action works great.
A good mechanic will try different tools and pick the one they like. As an electrician I have some Klein stuff, but not everything they make is great. As a bike mechanic I used plenty of Park Tools, but plenty of other brands (Campy, VAR, even Pedros) make stuff that works better. I don't need a full set of Snap Ons to rebuild an engine either - heck I hardly use the combo wrench anymore. And unless it strips a nut, I'll use whatever wrench gets the job done. I've tried RCBS and Dillon dies, and they don't work any better than Lee dies, they just have a few different features. I kinda standardized on Lee because I'm used to them and they work fine. But then again there is a LNL AP bolted to the inside bench while the XL650 is out in the garage and never used because the primer system and configure-ability is superior on the Hornady. I value those things over the pure speed of the Dillon (when it works).