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Thread: Lyman Mag 25 Furnace

  1. #1
    Boolit Master





    SSGOldfart's Avatar
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    Lyman Mag 25 Furnace

    Just unboxed a new one, This one has a small paper clip wire on the handle. It appears to slide through the shut-off rod into the pivot stud. I got the handle installed but see no use for the spring like wire ??
    Also shouldn't the flow stop when you remove your hand from the handle ?? this one appears to need to be lowered after each pour,maybe reaming the handle hole at the pivot stud to allow it to pivot freely and shut off the flow of hot lead. for the cost of these pots one would think they could include a on /off switch,instead of plugging the cord in and out to cut the power off.
    I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left.
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  2. #2
    Boolit Master





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    anybody??
    I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left.
    Paralyzed Veterans of America

    Looking for a Hensly &Gibbs #258 any thing from a two cavity to a 10cavityI found a new one from a member here

  3. #3
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    The spring wire goes under the handle bar. Like that on most Lyman pots. I added a spring to the handle to help it close better.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by dannyd View Post
    The spring wire goes under the handle bar. Like that on most Lyman pots. I added a spring to the handle to help it close better.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Good ideal on the handle spring I'll have to try that,I need the flow to stop when I release the handle
    I cast with one hand.
    I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left.
    Paralyzed Veterans of America

    Looking for a Hensly &Gibbs #258 any thing from a two cavity to a 10cavityI found a new one from a member here

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    Then you definitely going to need the extra spring.

    You can also try adding weight to the handle.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master



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    I'm going to have to add that spring myself. The second time I used my new Mag 25 I plugged it in and walked off to powder coat some of yesterdays work. A bit later the wife walks into the garage and asks what's burning? I told her it was probably just the pot getting hot as I didn't notice anything. A few minutes later I walk over to the pot which is emptying itself all over the bench, the handle wouldn't move as the top inch of the pot was still hard, took a mold and pushed it up against the spout to stop the flow and unplugged it. Had at least 10# of lead all over the bench. Took a half hour with a torch to melt the top inch and fired up the pot again. Have no idea why it set to draining itself, it was fine when I turned it off. I set a weight on the handle now when I turn it off/on to make sure that doesn't happen again, and that spring looks like a cure that I won't have to remember.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by lancem View Post
    I'm going to have to add that spring myself. The second time I used my new Mag 25 I plugged it in and walked off to powder coat some of yesterdays work. A bit later the wife walks into the garage and asks what's burning? I told her it was probably just the pot getting hot as I didn't notice anything. A few minutes later I walk over to the pot which is emptying itself all over the bench, the handle wouldn't move as the top inch of the pot was still hard, took a mold and pushed it up against the spout to stop the flow and unplugged it. Had at least 10# of lead all over the bench. Took a half hour with a torch to melt the top inch and fired up the pot again. Have no idea why it set to draining itself, it was fine when I turned it off. I set a weight on the handle now when I turn it off/on to make sure that doesn't happen again, and that spring looks like a cure that I won't have to remember.
    Good thing you check the pot. I had a lee pot that leaked 10 pounds on the bench and floor which mixed with sand took a few hours to clean up
    I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left.
    Paralyzed Veterans of America

    Looking for a Hensly &Gibbs #258 any thing from a two cavity to a 10cavityI found a new one from a member here

  8. #8
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    So I have my theory of leaktiviy… I think that when they are real cold (mine are stored/used in an unheated garage) the bottom of the lead closest to the element heats up first and expands pushing up top unmelted “cap” of lead unseating the valve and you know the rest. As I get easily distracted in the garage while the pot is heating up I keep a metal goodwill pan of greater capacity under the spout just in case.

    I think they are all like my kids, when your not watching them and you don’t hear anything they are likely up to no good…

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by metricmonkeywrench View Post
    So I have my theory of leaktiviy… I think that when they are real cold (mine are stored/used in an unheated garage) the bottom of the lead closest to the element heats up first and expands pushing up top unmelted “cap” of lead unseating the valve and you know the rest. As I get easily distracted in the garage while the pot is heating up I keep a metal goodwill pan of greater capacity under the spout just in case.

    I think they are all like my kids, when your not watching them and you don’t hear anything they are likely up to no good…
    I think your theory is hitting the nail on the head!

  10. #10
    Boolit Mold
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    Lyman fried after about an hour

    Hey guys, any way I could get you to take a picture of the control board? Or the black component in the picture? Trying to find the component so I can replace it. Issue is that it fried and melted. Bought the furnace about 2 years ago and finally used it a few days ago. 1 hour in and it fried....Click image for larger version. 

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by XxHermanxX View Post
    Hey guys, any way I could get you to take a picture of the control board? Or the black component in the picture? Trying to find the component so I can replace it. Issue is that it fried and melted. Bought the furnace about 2 years ago and finally used it a few days ago. 1 hour in and it fried....Click image for larger version. 

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    Seems like an ideal candidate for an external PID setup.

  12. #12
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    I fried mine also. However, all that was required to replace a mini fuse inside of a similar black box. Been working ever since

    Winelover

  13. #13
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    yes Sir fuses blow for no reason sometime. guess I've been lucky with mine. only issues I'' have now is lack of time to use it much
    Last edited by SSGOldfart; 02-15-2023 at 01:53 PM. Reason: small keybroad large fingers
    I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left.
    Paralyzed Veterans of America

    Looking for a Hensly &Gibbs #258 any thing from a two cavity to a 10cavityI found a new one from a member here

  14. #14
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by winelover View Post
    I fried mine also. However, all that was required to replace a mini fuse inside of a similar black box. Been working ever since

    Winelover
    That fuse and the fuse holder are a week link in the furnace. Mine melted the fuse enclosure and the holder. I replaced it with a fuse holder mounted separately inside the unit now if I ever need to replace it again it will be a readily available "Standard" fuse. Just remove the old unit and attach a couple of wires on the board where the old fuse was attached and run them to the new fuse.

    A separate question for the group. Has anyone got a schematic of the board or the entire furnace? How about a picture of the board, especially one showing the wires coming from the display as I just recently had another failure and found a small red wire from the display that now goes to nothing, I think that could be the issue. It must attach to the board and if I could see a picture of it I could reattach it. Thank you for any help.

  15. #15
    Boolit Mold
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    I too had the fuse/fuse holder melt. It looks like from searching the internet this a very common problem. I decided to replace the fuse and holder with a standard one so a standard fuse would fit it. I placed the fuse on the inside wall of the enclosure and ran the wires to the two holes in the board left from removing the fuse holder from the original location. So far so good, then the problem. One wire, a red one, about 3 or 4 inches long literally fell off of the board and I can't see where it was attached. The other end of this red wire attaches to the back of the display unit, it goes to the top left connection on it when looking at the back of the display. CAN ANYONE TELL ME, OR TAKE A PHOTO OF THE LOCATION WHERE IT ATTACHES SO I CAN SOLDER IT BACK IN PLACE? Lyman was less than helpful. Over about a 5 day period and sending back and fourth about 6 emails their bottom line was, "Due to liability issues we cannot give you any information". I was asking for a picture or a schematic. Are you kidding me many purchases of electronic/electrical items includes a schematic. They offered to sell me a new one at a discount, I paid $187 four years ago, they said they would discount the now price of$550. WOW, do me a favor. SO PLEASE IF ANYONE HAS ANY INFORMATION ON THIS WIRE I WOULD REALLY APPRECIATE THE HELP. THANKS. By the way, I am a retired electrician who worked on electronics for the U.S. Navy for years. So don't worry if you give me any information, I won't kill myself while using your information. I just want to get back to casting bullets.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check