L&R RPL Locks

[Mr Peabody]

Is putting one of L&R's percussion locks in my T/C going to give me a reduced trigger pull?

[megasupermagnum]

You can adjust a TC trigger to trip at mere ounces. Why would you want less than that?

[LAGS]

IMO.
I think the TC locks are fairly decent.
And , Yes
You can adjust them to shoot very easily.
Especially with the set trigger.
I have two TC Renagade locks that have an additional set screw that runs thru the Tumbler to the sear.
It makes the trigger adjustment way easier to reduce the trigger pull without using the set trigger.
I have used a couple of L&R RPL locks.
They are overall a better quality lock and look like they will outlast the TC locks.
In fact.
Lots of my TC locks are worn where the tumbler fits thru the backplate.
On a couple that were really loose.
I made a brass bushing out of a .308 casing neck soldered into the hole in the backplate.
The hammer then doesn't flop around and makes the trigger pull more consistent.
One other thing that I have found on most of the TC locks that I got on used rifles, especially built Kit rifles.
Was the lock backplate was not straight.
It looks like previous owners had over tightened the lock screw and bent the backplate.
When I straighten them out and sometimes spot bed them into the stock , they work a lot smoother.

[Mr Peabody]

Mines too light using the set. I'll have to look and see where there's an adjusting screw

[megasupermagnum]

It's the screw right out the bottom between the two triggers.

I've heard so-so reports on the L&R locks, most to do with fit, but not much about the trigger pull. When it comes to flintlock, absolutely most TC flintlocks are terrible. With percussion, I fail to see any shortcomings. The TC percussion locks are high quality locks, about as good as I've ever seen. If you managed to shoot one so much the tumbler wears out the plate hole, you should hang it on the wall as a badge of honor. If you are shooting to that level, then I can see looking at an L&R being as you can't get TC parts anymore.

[LAGS]

That screw is for adjusting the Trigger.
But it only adjusts the Set Trigger.
Those two TC locks that I have , do have a set screw in the back of the tumbler.
That screw adjusts the amount of contact the sear and tumbler have .
That screw is only adjustable by tearing the lock apart.
So once you get it set the way you want it , then you can't do field adjustments.

[Mr Peabody]

Thanks LAGS

[LAGS]

I have found that the TC locks had the hole in the lock backplate worn more from the previous owner shooting them so much.
The wear was mostly fron neglect by the owner.
It was mostly worn by Rust , from the owner not properly cleaning the locks before storage.
The backplate rusted.
But the tumbler was not too damaged by rust because it is harder metal.
But I have repaired the worn ones, so they are salvageable.
But by buying a better more expensive lock if you do not intend on caring for it properly.

[indian joe]

I have found that the TC locks had the hole in the lock backplate worn more from the previous owner shooting them so much.
The wear was mostly fron neglect by the owner.
It was mostly worn by Rust , from the owner not properly cleaning the locks before storage.
The backplate rusted.
But the tumbler was not too damaged by rust because it is harder metal.
But I have repaired the worn ones, so they are salvageable.
But by buying a better more expensive lock if you do not intend on caring for it properly.

Lags
did those wobbly locks have a bridle inside to support the tumbler ? a few of the early CVA's lacked the bridle and didnt work real long or real well!

I made a few replacement backplates - mostly so's I could fit a lock to a piece of wood that was already inletted . You would make a percussion backplate easily - just use the old plate for a pattern for the holes - then cut the outside to fit the inlet. The small CVA/maslin innards (Mountain Rifle and Kentucky) will work fine on the large lockplate ( hawken etc) - the smaller hammer isnt quite the style but it works ok.

[LAGS]

The TC locks do have a Bridal inside that does provide some support for the tumbler.
But when the hole in the lock backplate gets rusted and warn the hammer still wobbles.
And if you continue to shoot it for a long time , the support hole in the bridle gets warn too.
I also make new bridals for my TC locks that have a hole that fits correctly on the stub on the tumbler.
I have one TC lock that has a broken tumbler in the part that supports where the mainspring connects .
That lock may get rebuilt with a tumbler like from the L&R lock that will use a flat mainspring instead of the standard TC coil mainspring.
The Flat Mainspring on the L&R RPL locks , makes them more of a traditional muzzleloader style lock.
So I have a broken TC lock.
Why not play with converting it to a flat mainspring.

[indian joe]

The TC locks do have a Bridal inside that does provide some support for the tumbler.
But when the hole in the lock backplate gets rusted and warn the hammer still wobbles.
And if you continue to shoot it for a long time , the support hole in the bridle gets warn too.
I also make new bridals for my TC locks that have a hole that fits correctly on the stub on the tumbler.
I have one TC lock that has a broken bridal in the part that supports where the mainspring connects .
That lock may get rebuilt with a tumbler like from the L&R lock that will use a flat mainspring instead of the standard TC coil mainspring.
The Flat Mainspring on the L&R RPL locks , makes them more of a traditional muzzleloader style lock.
So I have a broken TC lock.
Why not play with converting it to a flat mainspring.

have not had a TC lock at all only flat spring locks (CVA except for two) interestingly never had to replace the flat spring in a CVA lock but busted one in an L& R that had not done much work - looked like a casting !!!!(didnt know they could do that - cast lock spring) ----need to learn how to harden and temper a spring !!!!

[LAGS]

@Joe
If you have a Broken flat mainspring.
Use that one to play with to learn how to re temper a spring.
You can also play with other types of spring steel or even old coil springs.
If that broken spring looks grainy on the area of the break.
That means it was Hardened , but not properly Tempered.

[bigted]

In converting my Renegade to flint from percussion I purchased an L&R replacement flinter lock. Had to fiddle with the wood UNDER the lock, mainspring and tumbler area, but I have absolutely no problem with that lock. I would recomend them ... but on the other hand, if I were gonna keep it percussion, I would just keep using the OEM TC lock.