RepackboxWidenersLoad DataInline Fabrication
RotoMetals2Lee PrecisionMidSouth Shooters SupplyReloading Everything
Titan Reloading
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 37

Thread: No. 2 pencil for sprue plate prep?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    S. Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,196

    No. 2 pencil for sprue plate prep?

    Hi, looked but didn't see it. Been a long time and just starting casting again, can't wait. Tom's Accurate 46-405VG arriving today.

    This is what I recall: I used a q-tip with mineral spirits to remove any machining oil from all surfaces. Allowed to dry completely. A small amount of beeswax on pins and sprue and handle (bolts? Not sure what to call them), smoked cavities; but also, marked the bottom of the sprue plate and top surface of the mold with a good amount of No. 2 pencil, simple graphite. No oil of any kind, as I've seen a lot.

    Haven't found anyone using pencil like this, however. First time prep, anyone doing it this way? Thoughts?

    FWIW, Tom's info was that for all his molds they get an US cleaning and scrubbing-out before shipping. For his own use, he blasts with compressed air all his new molds after the lathe and then depends on mold heating itself to simply burn off any liquid contaminants. Anything obvious is just removed with a Q-tip.
    -Paul

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Cecilia, Kentucky
    Posts
    6,715
    I lube with graphite. I lube the whole thing. When I disassemble, I color the pivot pin and alignment pins and sprue plate and mould top and sometimes the mould faces. When casting, if I have a smear, I wipe with a cloth and recolor with a pencil.

    For cleaning oil off a mould, I use lighter fluid. I clean the cold mould with it. Then, I get the mould about half temperature and with the sprue cutter open, fill the cavities full with lighter fuel. It boils but doesn’t combust. A hot boiling action cleans the cavities real good it seems.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    UPSTATE new york
    Posts
    1,722
    ya all I ever use is graphite, cover the entire mold as splashes don't stick either. Rapine had it a solution of something fast drying. I have made my own, graphite powder from hobby store in 90% alcohol or more if you can find it. I clean them with a blast of starter fluid from a spray can, qtips if needed.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    S. Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,196
    Thanks guys. First time I see the Ray Pine's Rapine and digging a bit, I see he's retired (good for him). Any sub you guys could recommend, or a DIY recipe? I used to just cover the mold with the pencil, but this seems like a much better way. Saw more here: https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...ine-Mould-Prep
    -Paul

  5. #5
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,481
    I've had good luck with a Q-tip and a drop of synthetic 2 stroke oil dabbed on top of the mold.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    kalif.
    Posts
    7,202
    Quote Originally Posted by Winger Ed. View Post
    I've had good luck with a Q-tip and a drop of synthetic 2 stroke oil dabbed on top of the mold.
    THis is what I have been doing for years. A barely damp Qtip on the top of the mold, pins & bottom of the spru plate.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
    NRA Cert. Inst. Met. Reloading & Basic Pistol

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    farmerjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    St. Francisville, Louisiana
    Posts
    1,925
    Aluminum anti seize and 2 cycle oil with a Q tip.
    There is no difference between communism and socialism, except in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism proposes to enslave men by force, socialism—by vote. It is merely the difference between murder and suicide. Ayn Rand

  8. #8
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    S. Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,196
    Thanks guys. Sounds like whether you go the graphite or 2-stroke oil route, none of you guys use beeswax on the pins, then. Just rubbing pencil worked great for me on my previous molds so I picked up some extra-fine graphite powder at our hardware store and I think I'd like to try sticking with that - but am intrigued by the DIY graphite-alcohol solution. Any guideline/suggestion for powdered graphite:90% iso. alc. ratio?
    -Paul

  9. #9
    Boolit Master fastdadio's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Mi.
    Posts
    974
    Deplorable infidel

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy

    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Eastern North Dakota
    Posts
    465
    Strange request to my son. Save me an empty Amsoil 2 stroke oil can next time you change oil. Got many years supply out of first can. LOL GW

  11. #11
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    S. Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,196
    Quote Originally Posted by G W Wade View Post
    Strange request to my son. Save me an empty Amsoil 2 stroke oil can next time you change oil. Got many years supply out of first can. LOL GW
    OK, skilled selling point.

    Edit: Is there an issue with synthetic?
    Last edited by huntinlever; 12-29-2022 at 05:49 PM.
    -Paul

  12. #12
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    S. Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,196
    Quote Originally Posted by fastdadio View Post

    Thanks. Saw an old post by Larry Gibson where he just uses a bit on a Qtip (this was Ray Pine's Rapine, when he was making it) and smooths a minimal amount over the pins, top of mold and top and bottom of the sprue plate.
    -Paul

  13. #13
    Boolit Master fastdadio's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Mi.
    Posts
    974
    Quote Originally Posted by huntinlever View Post
    Thanks. Saw an old post by Larry Gibson where he just uses a bit on a Qtip (this was Ray Pine's Rapine, when he was making it) and smooths a minimal amount over the pins, top of mold and top and bottom of the sprue plate.
    I have a can of it. Haven't used it on my molds yet, but I'm going to try it. I'm a high pressure steam boiler operator for a large metro area hospital. We've been using this stuff for years to lube valve stems, packings, pump assys, and other high temp light friction applications. Works great for that. We used to use fine graphite powder, but that stuff is messy dirty, smears, and stains everything it touches. This stuff is so much easier to use and live with.
    Deplorable infidel

  14. #14
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    S. Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,196
    Quote Originally Posted by fastdadio View Post
    I have a can of it. Haven't used it on my molds yet, but I'm going to try it. I'm a high pressure steam boiler operator for a large metro area hospital. We've been using this stuff for years to lube valve stems, packings, pump assys, and other high temp light friction applications. Works great for that. We used to use fine graphite powder, but that stuff is messy dirty, smears, and stains everything it touches. This stuff is so much easier to use and live with.
    Thanks for that info, and your expertise. Do you plan to use it everywhere (incl. the cavities)? Do you think the same issue with the powder exists if it's in solution with the alcohol?
    -Paul

  15. #15
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    UPSTATE new york
    Posts
    1,722
    I have no idea what Rapine used. I got my mix from a friend who used it for some aspect of rebuilding pipe organs. Basically you want the finest powder you can get mixed into a fast evaporating liquid. I used 90% rubbing alcohol. It s a little more difficult to find. My stuff does not work as well as the Rapine "mold release". Buy it has never caused a problem that I can detect. It just seems my stuff is not as liquid. I suppose any fast drying liquid could be used. The trick is to get a thin, uniform layer of the stuff on and it drys very fast. Might try paint thinner, brake cleaner, carb cleaner, hot moonshine. I wish I had the Rapine recipe. That was a great product. Also great as a sight blackening or for slip fitting parts to find contact points. I think the spary graphite would e OK for outside a mold buty I can't see getting a nice even layer inside.

    ps Rapine is a mold release agent - made to go in the cavities.. I use it on all my molds all over the entire mold. The coating inside is microns thick and you will never see an out of round or off size bullet. The coating is just far too thin. If you have that much, your using WAY TOO MUCH. Someone mentioned denatured alcohol I will try that.
    Last edited by ascast; 12-29-2022 at 07:06 PM.

  16. #16
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,481
    Quote Originally Posted by huntinlever View Post
    Is there an issue with synthetic?
    It can take the high heat without breaking down better than a petroleum oil.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  17. #17
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,481
    Quote Originally Posted by fastdadio View Post
    Spray graphite, for those interested;
    l]
    I've used a little of it.
    It makes more of a mess than a 2 year old kid does from eating pancakes with too much syrup.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    10,572
    Used to be a product called lock-eze that is alcohol and graphite. I just use a pencil - it removes any spots of lead - on the sprue plate and top of mold. Nothing in the cavities. I did try eco AC oil. Cooks to a hard non-removable mess.
    Whatever!

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
    405grain's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Modesto, Ca.
    Posts
    1,213
    Like others I use a slightly dampened Q-tip with synthetic 2 stroke oil to lube the sprue plate pivot. I go over the bottom of the sprue plate with a #2 pencil before the casting session. There is one thing that I do with a brand new mold the first time that I use them. (I've only tried this with iron and brass molds, haven't tried it on aluminum) After I've cleaned and de-greased the mold blocks I take a rubber ink eraser (not a pencil eraser - an INK eraser) and lightly rub it against all the sharp edges of the mold cavities. This gently removes the tiny invisible burrs that can cause bullets to stick in the mold blocks when their opened. It doesn't take but the lightest buff with the eraser to have bullets fall out of the molds like muffins, and it doesn't cause any wear on the molds. I flush out the cavities afterwards with lighter fluid to make sure that there aren't any eraser crumbs left behind.

  20. #20
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Butler, MO
    Posts
    9,020
    I've pretty much switched to lubing pivot points with aluminum anti seize. Then I use either a pencil or soapstone on the sprue plate, either one seems to work as well as the other, it just depends on which I find first.

    Robert

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check