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Thread: Hand Lube Question

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thundermaker View Post
    That's interesting. I've never heard of that. I wonder if the patch is the culprit, or is it the type of steel they typically make muzzleloader barrels out of.
    maybe they not wearing maybe they just shining up like that barrel of Kurts??
    But its common to move to a thicker patch after a few hundred and to go up one ball size (.490 to .495) at about the thousand mark.
    One bloke showed me a CVA mountain rifle that had documented over 3000 and he was shooting a .50 ball on calico patch - said that gun had started out at a .490 ball on calico.
    it takes real dedication to put big miles on a muzzleloader.

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy
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    Oct 2013
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    Cordele, GA
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    Quote Originally Posted by indian joe View Post
    maybe they not wearing maybe they just shining up like that barrel of Kurts??
    But its common to move to a thicker patch after a few hundred and to go up one ball size (.490 to .495) at about the thousand mark.
    One bloke showed me a CVA mountain rifle that had documented over 3000 and he was shooting a .50 ball on calico patch - said that gun had started out at a .490 ball on calico.
    it takes real dedication to put big miles on a muzzleloader.
    It could be that they're getting polished, so it's easier to seat a bigger ball and thicker patch

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy Gobeyond's Avatar
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    Apr 2020
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    Don’t use the case lube to size. That is why the lube is not sticking!

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy Gobeyond's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tangsight View Post
    Thanks to everyone who has responded. I have not heated the boolits and I will give that a try.

    Froogal: I too have a lubrisizer. However, I may be doing things out of order, because I cast, then size, then weigh and sort the boolits (the boolits are sprayed with a liquid case lube before sizing). I then pan lube them just before the seating operation. So I don't use the lubrisizer anymore.

    Stubshaft: I have some lanolin oil (for the case lube I refer to above) that I can add to the bullet lube, which is currently Spence Wolf's recipe of beeswax and olive oil, half and half. Or I guess I could add a little more beeswax; that might make it stick better, too?

    Country Gent: I agree that adding a teaspoon of salt to water will prevent the water from boiling until a higher temperature. However, the lube, or your hand if you stick it in that water that isn't boiling yet even though the temperature is 220 degrees, will still be scorched. Ask me how I know.

    Everyone else: Thanks for your contributions, but to rephrase the original question: Is there a law of physics that comes into play, of which I am not aware but you-all might be, that makes finger lubing a ballistically inferior approach?
    Don’t use case lube to size. Then the lube will stick.

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    492
    Sizing GG bullets before lubing them might lead to the lube grooves collapsing unevenly, there being no lube in the grooves.... I shoot as cast, when I need to size, always after lubing so there is lube in the grooves to support them. Stops you from doing an additional operation which might be detrimental to accuracy, especially if the bullet needs quite a bit of sizing.

  6. #26
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Central wi.
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    29
    I’ve been pan lubing for a while now , since 1 of my favorite molds has first 2 driving bands reduced I have to.
    Will not work in lubrisizer I have. I pan lube as cast, never have I seen a lube groove not filled . Then they have to be pushed out by the nose. Mostly using spg lube. The reason the lube is not sticking is because of the product u are putting on the bullet before pan lubing. Pan lube then size would be much better in your situation.JMHO

    Doug

  7. #27
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    89
    Martinibelgian: I appreciate your concern over my sizing my GG bullets before I lube them (that the lube grooves might collapse unevenly, which might be detrimental to accuracy), and I will experiment at the next shooting session with bullets that are lubed and then sized. However, I call your attention to my original post, in which I said "They shoot good." Maybe they could shoot better? That would be very nice.
    Gobeyond/Mr.Doug: Since I am going to lube and then size, instead of size and then lube, per Martinibelgian's reasoning, the background and question below are just for my own education: The "case lube" I apply before sizing is just lanolin and an automotive product called Heet, which is isopropyl alcohol. I stand the bullets up, spray them, and let them sit for half an hour or so, during which time the alcohol evaporates, leaving the bullets coated with the lanolin. Now lanolin is a component in many bullet lubes, so putting lanolin on the bullets before I size them seems to me to be akin to putting bullet lube on them before I size them. How can the presence of a bullet lube component on the bullets make bullet lube not stick to the bullets?

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy
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    May 2006
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    Tangsight, If your cases will accept unsized bullets, by all means also try that - less manipulation, might just work better - and shoot equally well or better. It depends on what your rifle likes, and it will let you know!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check