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Thread: Lead Free Solder

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Lead Free Solder

    I have a roll of lead free solder that the label is almost unreadable. From what I can read: Wolverine, 95.6% Tin, 4% Copper and .4% unknown (can't read). Can someone fill in the blank? Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    whatever the 0.4% is it isn't going to effect anything when it is used to add tin to pure lead or some other bullet casting alloy. the 4% copper adds strength and hardness but yet again if you need to add tin to your alloy to get good mold fill out that lead free solder its perfect.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thanks for the info.

  4. #4
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    It might be antimony, but whatever it is, it isn't enough to matter for what you're doing.
    Perhaps it makes manufacturing it easier or better, but don't worry about it.
    Last edited by Winger Ed.; 12-19-2022 at 12:26 AM.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brasso View Post
    I have a roll of lead free solder that the label is almost unreadable. From what I can read: Wolverine, 95.6% Tin, 4% Copper and .4% unknown (can't read). Can someone fill in the blank? Thanks in advance.
    https://www.brazing.com/Pdf/MSDS/MSD...ee_Solders.pdf

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    When I worked in construction.
    I use to find left over rolls of lead free solder that were left by the plumbers.
    I just treated it like it was pure Tin when I made up my lead alloys.
    It worked great.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master BNE's Avatar
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    Agree with others that it is not enough to matter. My guess would be silver.
    I'm a Happy Clinger.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmbif View Post
    whatever the 0.4% is it isn't going to effect anything when it is used to add tin to pure lead or some other bullet casting alloy. the 4% copper adds strength and hardness but yet again if you need to add tin to your alloy to get good mold fill out that lead free solder its perfect.
    On the stuff I have the .4 % is silver. Nice but amounts to nothing in the final alloy even in 20 to 1 you end up with 95.2 lead, 4.6 tin, 0.2 copper, and 0.02 silver. Unless your pure lead is really pure the copper and silver are less than the impurities in the pure lead. Same deal if you are making Lyman #2 just treat the solder like it is pure tin. The copper and silver are just too small to matter. I like copper in my alloy, but you have to work hard to get enough to matter unless you buy copper babbit.
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  10. #10
    Boolit Master

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    Silver is a good bet. I found Wolverine Brass solder at several sites. This one had the best price of the ones I looked at. Shipping was $12 for 1 to 4 rolls, but 5 rolls would get free shipping. https://www.citibestsell.com/product...a75495763.html
    Spell check doesn't work in Chrome, so if something is spelled wrong, it's just a typo that I missed.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thank everyone for their replies. Now I know what to do with this.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Solder pipes?

  13. #13
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rickf1985 View Post
    Solder pipes?
    It's required now days for all Copper tubing that has drinking water in them.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


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  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    Does anyone even use copper pipe anymore? I was joking!!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check