Bought a Hornady neck turning tool also for 300 blkout brass. Worked great but was an aggravation. One of the reasons I no longer own a 300 blkout.
Bought a Hornady neck turning tool also for 300 blkout brass. Worked great but was an aggravation. One of the reasons I no longer own a 300 blkout.
K&M makes a good neck turner. Use their expander to get the correct neck ID for the neck turner. Then get their carbide mandrel for the neck turner that has the donut cutter on the end. Problem of donuts solved and you'll have a very uniform neck wall. I've formed and turned many small caliber cases for PD and ground squirrels. I batch my brass in 400 to 1000 piece lots. I use a 177 rpm gear head motor to drive the cases. For small lots a cordless drill works fine. A tip when using the donut cutter mandrel. It can scratch the inside of the neck if you don't align it correctly. I start the case in the opposite direction of the cutters teeth till it's on the mandrel and then finish turning the neck. I also make a second pass with the turner, don't remove the mandrel from the case mouth, once the cutter clears the case mouth then just slowly go back over the neck. I think it gives a cleaner look to the neck.
RCBS neck turner for me, BO chamber is tight and I convert brass from 223. Chuck case in elec drill and hold the tool. Their holder is worthless and SLOW. I did get a larger chuck for the drill, easy to replace, it screws on.
Whatever!
The hardest thing with neck turners is getting the cutter set to the exact wall thickness you want, it can take some trial and error. a set of shims can be a big help.
I mount the cuter in the drill press and use a case holder on the table. This way the cutter can stay spinning while I change cases. My home made neck turner uses a carbide cutter and is balanced I turn at around 1500 rpm. This with the small amount of lube on the mandrel and on outside of neck gives a glass like finish.
The chips that come from the neck turner are very fine and sharp. Towel or mat to contain them is recommended
I'm sure I'll try different methods before finding one I like.
The lathe method is sounding better and better, except for the fact that I don't have a live center to fit the tiny (I don't remember offhand if it is 0 or 00) Morse taper of the tailstock.
All this probably won't happen until spring, it can get a little cold in the unheated shop. But we could get some nice days with late fall like weather yet.
Robert
Inside neck reamer is what I like. I have a die setup from rcbs for my 6.5x284. I use the Forrester reamers for the rest of my rifles. Easy to use and gets rid of any doughnuts that may form.
Fwiw,
Steve
An old trick for BR shooters is to turn the neck by adjustments until there is a single hair line of unturned brass left, but do not turn the neck all the way around. I use a Forrester tool for neck turning and do have inside reamers as well. Better for me is outside turning. I have a CH trimmer and an RCBS Trim Pro with a motor and a bunch of mandrels and 3 way cutters. Plus a brass cut off saw for the shortened brass cats.
“There is a remedy for all things, save death.“
Cervantes
“Never give up, never quit.”
Robert Rogers
Roger’s Rangers
There are three kinds of men. The one that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves.
Will Rogers
I was learning to turn blown out 220 Rooskie to 6 PPC brass with a K&M tool, cartridge mounted on an inexpensive LEE stud setup otherwise used for trimming to length.
Chuck the cartridge holder/cartridge into a variable speed drill.
~~~~~
I was going ape s**t because every time I picked up the trimmer, the cutting depth had changed!
Did some calculations and it seemed the aluminum the tool is made from would expand/contract a significant amount if it went from "in service" (getting warm, around 100F or so) to lying about the bench in 60F weather.
I was astounded at the number. Don't remember exactly but it was pretty much the difference I was seeing with a warm vs. cold tool - tens of thousandths of an inch.
The solution? Put the damn trimmer in your shirt or pants pocket, let the temp stabilize, adjust your cutter, and put it back in your pocket every time you might otherwise like to lay it on the bench.
Duh? Duh? And again, DUH?
Don't forget to lube the cutter shaft to minimize friction on the case.
...
Last edited by pcmacd; 12-18-2022 at 09:52 PM.
Kalifornia passes "feel good" legislation hand over fist, legislation that is looking for a problem to solve and affecting only law abiding persons.
So, after 40 years of that nonsense, that's why I now live in Arizona.
Kalifornia passes "feel good" legislation hand over fist, legislation that is looking for a problem to solve and affecting only law abiding persons.
So, after 40 years of that nonsense, that's why I now live in Arizona.
Source for your live center:
https://www.littlemachineshop.com/pr...rm=live+center
Cold shop! Been the bane of my existence ever since I retired. One big reason why I bought that little Unimat.
Cognitive Dissident
Lathe is the way to go. In a pinch you can do without the live center, just make sure the cases has a slight press-fit on the mandrel.
Cap'n Morgan
...I don't know if you're referring to the book or the tools, but they all worked and they work. for me.
(the book was so worn from my use that I bought another one)_
as for tobacco laws, in my book they deserve the same rating as gun laws, no matter where they are enforced_
Food is overrated. A nice rifle is way more important.
Rob
one thing to keep in mind. When setting the cutter ( or expansion from temperature} i5s 2 for 1 every .001 change gets .002 on the part .001 on a side.
I have the Lyman and used it on 7-08 made from 308 , not sure how it would work if you had to remove alot of brass . I had no trouble with the mandrel in FL sized brass .
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Jesus said ( Come unto me, all ye that labor and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest ) Matt. 11:28
If you want to be the coolest kid on the block
2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
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- Wayne Dyer
I suppose they'll sell a couple of those, but I can't see it doing anything that can't be done on a small lathe. Maybe slower, but no less accurate.
Cognitive Dissident
The problem with attempting to be the coolest kid on the block is that it takes copious amounts of money. Alas, I am a retired First Class Petty Officer, made of money I am not.
Robert
For what that probably costs you arnt going to be far away from a smaller lathe. A small lathe could be set up in the same way to bore and turn together. Though like the machine it would be a dedicated set up. Starting with a new Harbor Freight 7x10 mini lathe and a bit of materials for the new tool post and some tooling
I've got a little Craftsman 6x18-ish lathe, not a lot of tooling with it, but some. I think this will be the project that gets me to attempt to run it.
This is the model that was made by Dunlop, not Atlas, so it really isn't much of a lathe; but it should do most of what the little Chinese lathes do.
Robert
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |