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Thread: Loose 7mm Hornady Checks on NOE bullet

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Loose 7mm Hornady Checks on NOE bullet

    I've cast my first bullets out of a NOE 287 - 150 FN silhouette four banger that I picked up here several years ago. Didn't look like it has been use much if any. The nose and main diameters look like they are going to work well but when I went to put the Hornady gas checks on the powder coated bullets, they were way too big for the shank to stay on. That's not the end of the world but when run through the .285 sizer, the check could be picked off with my fingernail without a lot of effort. That's not conducive to good accuracy. Is this common with 7mm Hornady checks? I measured a few and they are about .263" inside diameter and my bullet shank is .251-254" which is a touch smaller than the print, but that check would be loose even if the shank hit the .258" dimension at the big end. I'm hesitant to modify a nice mold that seems to be within NOE's callout.
    I guess I have two options, modify the mold or find checks that fit better. I can open the mold on the mill or in the lathe without too much trouble. Would a 6.5mm check would fit the shank and still be big enough to function?


    https://noebulletmolds.com/site/wp-c..._E5_Sketch.jpg

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
    Ben's Avatar
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    Your numbers on the shank dia. look good.
    I'm suspicious that you have a bad run of gas checks that were made on Monday morning or late Friday.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    405grain's Avatar
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    Removing metal is easy. Putting it back on is hard. Before you try any modifications to the mold I suggest that you give a call to NOE and get the information on how to proceed straight from the source.

  4. #4
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    I've had this happen before with Hornady 7mm checks and a Lyman mold. My solution was to anneal the checks to soften them enough to seat. They still sometimes spun a little on the base, but wouldn't pull off like they did before.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    I put in an email to NOE. I've got three boxes of these checks that all look like they are from the same time frame and have same price tag stickers. I think before I modify the mold, I'd try a push thru die to snug the checks up a touch. Or if there is another brand that folks know will reliably fit that size shank? Who makes checks these days? All I've ever bought have been from here or gun shows and they are mostly Hornady.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    Sorry for not getting back sooner - getting ready for the holidays has me running around a lot. Try Sages Outdoors for gas checks. They make many types: both copper and aluminum. Maybe best off if you send them a call or email and explain your problem and see what they think. I've had really good results using their "gator" checks. (I use Hornady too.)

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    I haven't heard from NOE but it's holiday season. I can give a small quantity of the Sage checks a try. Thanks for the reference.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    Had the same problem ! A+ on annealing the gas checks, this makes them softer with less spring back

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    i like to put a drop of super glue in check

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    I've recently had this exact same problem with a batch of 8mm "gator" checks. Couldn't even get Sage's to answer my emails. Hornady checks fit just fine. Go figure. Try Sage's if you want, but I'd be looking at the mould.

    Afterthought: Are you seating checks using a lubrisizer? If so are you using the concave end of the bottom punch? Using the flat end will cause them to fail to crimp properly.
    Last edited by uscra112; 12-28-2022 at 10:20 AM.
    Cognitive Dissident

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by uscra112 View Post
    I've recently had this exact same problem with a batch of 8mm "gator" checks. Couldn't even get Sage's to answer my emails. Hornady checks fit just fine. Go figure. Try Sage's if you want, but I'd be looking at the mould.

    Afterthought: Are you seating checks using a lubrisizer? If so are you using the concave end of the bottom punch? Using the flat end will cause them to fail to crimp properly.
    Now you’ve got me thinking. I’m using an original H&I sizer that apparently cuts as much as it sizes. There seems to be a shoulder involved. Seller I got it from here said that can be honed out to work like a regular Lyman die. But makes me wonder if that initial section is the correct diameter. The pin does have a slight counterbore that I was planning in turning flat like the Lyman.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check