45 ACP bullets

[josper]

i just started casting for my 45ACP and was wondering if I could use just range lead for my bullets. velocity is around 850fps and pressure is around 14,000psi I'm using unique 6.5gr. for a lyman 225gr rn I was also wondering what other shooters are having good luck with.

[lotech]

I have many .45 molds and have had all of them for a long time. As for accuracy, I haven't been able to beat the SAECO #069 (copy of the H&G #68) at about 200 grs. cast from about any alloy with a BHN between 10-15. I use 3.5 Bullseye for a target load of around 700 fps and 5 Bullseye for something stouter, around 850- 875 fps.

[ioon44]

I have been using range lead and COWW for years, it comes out to around 11BHN, and I use Hi-Tek coating with my hand cast 200 gr SWC H&G 68 type bullets loaded to 825 to 850 fps. Very accurate and no leading.

[metricmonkeywrench]

I have the Lyman 220g mould as well, for most of my range fodder I circle somewhere around the 10-15 BHN range as well with a somewhat similar load, my target velocity for the RN is around 900fps. No real issues when sized to .452.

[Ed_Shot]

The Lyman 452374 has been around for a very long time because its a winner but I'll give the nod to HG68 and it's clones for accuracy. I guessing your concern is leading. You don't say what lube you are using. I consider it important to size to .452 .... I've had a couple of 452374's that couldn't do that. My recommendation is to load up fire 10~20 rounds using your "mystery" BHN range lead and access your groups and the condition of your bore. Your weapon will tell you what it likes.

[Super Sneaky Steve]

I use range lead for just about everything including 45 Auto. Powdercoat them and you'll be fine.

[ShooterAZ]

I use both range lead and alloy from isotope cores for my 38 Special and 45 Auto loads. If I have trouble with fill-out I will add a little bit of tin derived from 95/5 solder, usually don't need very much.

[Winger Ed.]

It'll work just fine, especially if there is some cast boolits in there.
If you don't get a good fill out, raise the temp a little.
If that doesn't work, throw in some wheel weights for the Tin in them.

If you don't powder coat, even the junkiest of lubes will work going that slow too.
I use the wife's discarded fu-fu candles and soften it some with high temp disc brake grease for .38 & .45 ACP.

[WRideout]

I have been using range scrap exclusively for my 45 ACP, with "some" tin added. I size to .452 with my homemade lube. The Lyman 452460 is the only 45 mold I own, and I will probably not ever need another.

Wayne

[Bigslug]

No reason a softish bullet like you describe would have trouble in the .45 ACP once it's chambered and ignited.

My only concerns would be (1.) if the mold is spec'd for something harder and the softer stuff casts too small a diameter, and (2.) a more aggressive meplat or SWC nose that gets deformed during the trip through the impacts and angles associated with the feeding operations. I tend to gravitate toward a more wheel-weight like alloy personally, but if those issues are non-issues, nothing else about the round would require a more costly "sexy metal".

Bullseye is my fuel of choice for .45ACP. Unique in my experience is just too slow burning to run clean in that round, though I do like it for light to mid-power loads in magnum revolvers.

[stubshaft]

I have shot thousands of the RCBS 200's and Lyman 185's in Bullseye and Bianchi competitions using WW lead and Lyman lube. The majority of them were ahead of Red dot powder.

[jaysouth]

i just started casting for my 45ACP and was wondering if I could use just range lead for my bullets. velocity is around 850fps and pressure is around 14,000psi I'm using unique 6.5gr. for a lyman 225gr rn I was also wondering what other shooters are having good luck with.

Are you lubing or powder coating? If you are powder coating, range scrap will work. I would back off to get the lightest load that will reliably cycle your gun. The paper won't know the difference between 800 and 850 fps. Do you have a faster powder to play with?

[BJung]

Casters recycle their range scrap differently. Some melt all the lead and mix the alloy together. I segregate my range scrap from jacketed bullets, large lead pieces, and small pieces remaining after I was out the debri and dirt. I melt them separately, let the ingots sit, and test them for hardness with pencils. The softest are used for 38 wadcutters and .45 acp bullets. My accuracy load using a Lee 45-225 RN is 5.0gr Bullseye with an OAL of 1.270".

[Alstep]

I'll go with the H&G 68 as well. Cast 50/50 WW/Pb, sized .452, lubed with 50/50 beeswax/alox, 4.0 gr Bullseye, taper crimp, 1.250 OAL. Accurate and reliable in all my 1911's.

[Forrest r]

I've used nothing but range scrap to cast bullets with since the 80's. It's typically 8/9bhn and has been fantastic for all my casting/lead bullet needs for the pistols and revolvers. Used to buy the old nra 50/50 lube by the case along with making my own lubes. I changed over to powder coating simply because the firearms stay cleaner with extended range sessions. Along with not getting the carbon ring buildup in the revolver cylinders that I'd get from traditional lubes.

Another vote for the h&g 68 or any of it's clones. I actually prefer 200gr or lighter bullets in the 1911/45acp platform.

[Willie T]

If the fit is good your range scrap will probably work just fine without leading. If you don’t get nice tight corners on your boollits or it casts a little small add a little bit of tin.
I cast 45 acp with 50% soft lead and 50% clip on wheel weights for a little more forgiving alloy. A Lee six cavity 230 grain round nose tumble lube bullet sized to .452 and W-231 is my most accurate 45 acp load.

[wv109323]

If your range lead is purely from jacketed bullets it is nearly plain lead with no tin. If it is from previous cast bullets then it already has some tin in it.
You will need to cast and load a few to try. Look for complete fill out of the mold. Then as already stated , look at the boolit nose for deformation after it has been chambered in the pistol.
You should get 750 to 800 fps with pure lead. 850 fps may be a stretch for pure lead. With a little tin you should be able to get 850 easily.
Size to .452 and taper crimp to .470".
Make sure your neck expander is sizing the brass large enough, so that your boolit is not sized down during seating. Some die manufacturers dimension their dies for jacketed bullets.

[tazman]

I use range scrap. I have several different nose shapes and weights. They all work fine in my pistols with one exception. That exception is and older Springfield XD(not the XDM). In that one I need to use either round nose, conical, or RNFP. Anything with a semiwadcutter type shoulder will hang up due to the feeding design..
I lube with NRA 50-50. No problems with leading. Powder coating or Hitek will also work fine.
If I suspect that my alloy is getting too soft, I will put and ingot of linotype in the pot to "sweeten" the mix. SInce I water quench from the mold, I get a little harder boolit than some do.
As you may deduct, I am not too concerned about my alloy or hardness being perfectly consistent for my handguns. The loads I use shoot better than I do and I have no issues with leading. I know they shoot better than I do because I have seen good shooters shoot my weapons with my ammunition and they perform well in the good shooters hands. Any issues with accuracy fall on my shoulders, not the ammo or the firearm. I am not a good enough handgun shooter to benefit from perfect match ammo.

[Rich/WIS]

Have used range lead for years in my 45 ACP with no issues. Bullet is the LEE copy of the H&G 68 that I milled down to remove the bevel base and runs about 190 grs with the range lead. Sized in a Lyman .451 die that actually sizes to .4517 and lubed with either the old NRA 50/50 or XLOX 2500 has never leaded. My load is very mild, 3.1 grs of Bullseye, in a tuned pistol, is accurate and pleasant to shoot.

[Green Frog]

Years ago one of the NRA books on reloading for the 45 had a line that said if you had a Lyman mould in 452460 it would do everything you need from a cast bullet. I’ve never seen this disproven. Lyman #2, range scrap (sweetened with a little tin if needed), or COWWs with 1-2% tin all work well at normal target velocities up to the hottest you’re likely to shoot in your 1911 based gun.

Froggie