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Thread: CVA 50 cal Express double rifle help.

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy ETG's Avatar
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    CVA 50 cal Express double rifle help.

    Hi, all.
    I purchased a CVA 50 Express from an estate auction. The barrel was listed as a shotgun barrel and the rest as a stock. Any way, the lug that holds the barrel to the stock was broken and someone had tried to mig the bottom back on the lug. That lug is hollow for the ramrod and the slot the brass wedge goes through to hold the barrel on is broken. The attempt to weld broken piece of the slotted lug basically just melted the thin walled tube the ramrod fits through. The whole lug is fairly loose as is all the others. I have attempted to leave CVA messages and emails but have not received any response. If the lug is held on by a screw, I could try to make a one piece replacement but the attempted repair melted the ends to where I cannot see how it is attached. If the mounting lug didn’t have the ramrod going through it it would be a lot easier. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. The only solution I have come up with is to make a replacement lug from one piece of steel, taper the edges to fit in between the two barrels, slot it for the retaining piece then bore a hole for the ramrod.- a lot of milling for something that may not work. Any ideas?
    Thanks,
    ETG

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Since there is a rib there for joining the barrels together, you have a few options. I would think about an adaptation of a longer ramrod tube like is currently soldered/brazed in place. A tube, about 3 inches long, with provisions for two mounting screws on either side of existing tube. Saw or file existing tube as close as you can and notch the replacement to match. Attach new lug to tube by screws, similar to the means by which tube is attached to barrel. Inlet stock to accommodate additional metal, and file lug to match wedge.
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  3. #3
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    Could you show some pictures of the problem?
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  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy ETG's Avatar
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    Here are some pics. I removed the pieces of mig wire that was all over it. There was only one small spot holding the top on. Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy ETG's Avatar
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    Unless can find a replacement, it would probably be best to machine from single piece of steel. Not sure if I could use this to get actual height of retaining slot. I do not have the wedge to hold the barrel on.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
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    .

    I would first check that the bubba welding didn't loosen the bottom rig (an expensive repair).

    If the rib's OK, I would drill out the wedge hole and square off the wedge hole with files, then file off whatever weld is on the outside, until it looks normal.

    I would remove both RR tubes & replace them with screw-on tubes, but epoxy them in place ILO of D/T'ing holes for the screws.

    YMMV


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  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    If mine, I would consider a folding ram rod . I had a mz that was driving me nuts how to fix and after making up my mind to use a folding portable ram rod the fix became easy for my limited options.
    Look twice, shoot once.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy ETG's Avatar
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    The buba welding is only holding in one small (I.e. 1/16”) spot and wouldn’t hold anything. The ramrod tube is loose but the rib between the barrels is fine. Is that tube held to the rib by a screw? If it is then I might cut the tube top off, unscrew it and remake the hole assembly from a solid piece with a hole I could use to screw it on.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy ETG's Avatar
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    Nekshot, what is there now would not hold the barrel on. I could use a solid piece with a slot and not mill a hole for the ramrod and use a folding ramrod. I do not have a lot of muzzle loading experience. Only had a smooth bore Brazilian trade gun I shot as a kid using ball bearings and Kleenex

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Cap'n Morgan's Avatar
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    Bubba - bless his soul - obviously forgot to inset a copper tube in the ram hole before cutting loose with the MIG welder.

    You need a new lug! Get with off the old one using a hacksaw and (careful here!) an angle grinder. My guess is that the lug is held in place by two flat-head screws.

    Now for the new lug: the best would be a single-piece affair, but it would take a mill (or a hacksaw & file and a bench drill press) to make one.
    A two-piece lug could be made by bracing a lug on top of a suitable piece of tubing. Whatever you choose, don't cut the slot (by drilling & filing) before the lug is installed.
    With the barrel placed in the stock you can then mark the slot position with a slim scriber.
    Cap'n Morgan

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    Most likely the lug is soldered to the rib or barrels. A machinist could make a replacement.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy ETG's Avatar
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    The front two lugs that only hold the ramrod and sling swivel use a screw both of which are loose. I ASSumed the rear lug was the same. It is not and I think John Taylor is right - it is not sitting on top of the rib but is down flush with it and is not loose. The part that is loose it the piece that makes the slot - hanging on literally by a thread. Buba did not remove any of the finish on the lug or the top that broke off. Now I can clean up thee mess Buba made and try to TIG it back together. My second thought is to remove the top piece and cut the lug down the center, spread it out and use the flattened sides to TIG in a piece 3/8" thick steel. My final and probably best idea would be to cut off the lug and contour to the rib. Fashion an inverted T and contour the top of the tee to fit into the rib. I would make it about 3/8" longer on each side to get out of the area Buba messed with. I think a thickness of about 1/4" would be good enough to let me drill and countersink a screw on both ends threaded into the rib. The leg of the T will be where the slot is cut mounting and marking. There is enough room to inlet this design. Any other ideas are more than welcome.
    ETG

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check