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Thread: Paslode strip nailer

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Paslode strip nailer

    I have a Paslode 6512 nailer that I bought new in '98 that, at that time, cost $1200.00+. I haven't used it in years and when I needed it this last summer it only shot two nails before failing. Most internal parts are obsolete and no longer available anywhere.
    What I am looking for is a tutorial that describes EXACTLY, MECHANICALLY, how a pneumatic strip nailer works. All I can find is a general blah blah blah description written for a first grader. I hesitate to completely disassemble the unit until I know what I'm doing.
    This gun shoots 5-1/8" nails of which I have a goodly supply and nothing else on the market (that I can find) will shoot these clipped head nails. Any help or advice would be appreciate...

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    Check this page;

    https://nailerpros.com/paslode-nail-gun-repair-manual/

    I personally would start out by spraying it out with carburetor cleaner, then re-lubing.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Before tearing it down, squirt some light penetrating oil in the air input and see if it will cycle without nails. I took apart my old Senco and it was pretty straightforward - mine needed an O-ring and I was able to get a pack at a local bearing shop.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy super6's Avatar
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    I have seen alot of pneumatic nailers that fail from lack of good oil, Me, I would oil the dickens out of it and give it a good work out. is it leaking air? may be just a seal replacement needed! A little carb cleaner before the oil would be a good thing as mentioned above. I do not have any suggestions as far as repair manuals go. Take lots of pics and notes and go!
    Give me something to believe in. Poison

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    Sleeve seal came out in a dozen different pieces; don't think oil is going to put it back together.
    I have machined a new, close approximation of said seal out of delrin but I'd like to know how this thing works before reassembling.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    You can look at https://nailerpros.com/paslode-nail-gun-repair-manual If this helps ? I have a couple of them. Battery / gas Nailers. They wanted almost the cost of a new one to rebuild ? Harbor Fright has Nailers ( air drive ) that are cheap and handle the nails you stated.. I have a number of them from Harbor Freight, work good and last under hard use...

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    I was a carpenter for over 40 years and I never in my whole career drove a nail that long unless you would count a gutter spike. Whay did you use them for?

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    If you use any oil other than air tool oil, you risk damaging the o-rings and seals. Been there, done that with an air tool that someone else borrowed and used. That will be more parts that need replacing.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
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    What do I use 5-1/8" nails for? 1903 vintage haybarn on my farm built with rough sawed oak. Sent samples of the wood to Paslode back in '98 for them to experiment with before I bought the nailer. They shot smooth shank and ring shank into the oak and recommended appropriate pressures. Started the project of restoring said barn in '85 using FULL dimension rough sawed oak (mostly burr). Almost impossible to drive nails into seasoned oak and pre-drilling got old as time wore on as did my age...

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRLesan View Post
    What do I use 5-1/8" nails for? 1903 vintage haybarn on my farm built with rough sawed oak. Sent samples of the wood to Paslode back in '98 for them to experiment with before I bought the nailer. They shot smooth shank and ring shank into the oak and recommended appropriate pressures. Started the project of restoring said barn in '85 using FULL dimension rough sawed oak (mostly burr). Almost impossible to drive nails into seasoned oak and pre-drilling got old as time wore on as did my age...
    There was a hayloft I wanted to salvage from an old dairy barn on a farm site I was renting the house on. The beams and floor were all 1 1/2 inch or thicker oak. The roof rafters were curved oak beams that joined at the peak... and no cross rafters needed, wide open from end to end. 50x100'! I wanted to turn it into a house by moving just the hayloft to a new site, refurbing the interior with timbers salvaged from the lower part of the barn. Set it over a basement, put a loft in half of it for bedrooms... would end with about 12,000 sq feet of living space... roof was always maintained on it so zero rot. Timbers were like iron, no driving a nail even with an air nailer.

    Sadly the owner wanted to much money for it to make moving it cost effective, I had a deal lined up on the abandoned farm site just across the field so moving would have been doone after the ground froze. Make a road across the field. The owner ended up burning it and pushing it into a pit!!!!!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebb View Post
    I was a carpenter for over 40 years and I never in my whole career drove a nail that long unless you would count a gutter spike. Whay did you use them for?
    They are pole barn nails ?

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Burning something like that is almost criminal. It's amazing what greed can prevent from happening.
    Chicken Little has finally found an audience

  13. #13
    Boolit Bub
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    Burning an oak building of that size and condition was more folly than greed. With patience and the right broker familiar with the market it would have sold for as much as many new houses.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chena View Post
    Burning an oak building of that size and condition was more folly than greed. With patience and the right broker familiar with the market it would have sold for as much as many new houses.
    The curved roof rafters once sanded could have been used in a church... they were that pretty! And stout, they had to be 10"x10"!

    This style but MUCH beefier



    This is much closer to what it was


  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Such a waste

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy super6's Avatar
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    After building my house, All brick and 2700 sq foot. It took 10 years to build, A two story on a hill, The work to build that cow barn had to be some kind of labor, And what a waste.
    Give me something to believe in. Poison

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    Anything rubber in that tool will have to be replaced. Pneumatic nailers are pretty tricky, but I have some inside knowledge. If the piston is plastic, it may have swelled from the 25 year exposure to mineral oil. I graduated college a decade after that model was released, but I can probably help you figure it out. Feel free to PM me.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check