MidSouth Shooters SupplyRepackboxRotoMetals2Wideners
Inline FabricationLoad DataLee PrecisionReloading Everything
Titan Reloading
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 41 to 59 of 59

Thread: SKS shoots to the right

  1. #41
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Lake Havasu City, Arizona
    Posts
    21,305
    SKS GAS TUBE MODIFICATION


    SKS rifles are notorious for their violent ejection of fired cases. This may be desirable on the Russian tundra at 20 below but for the reloader trying to find the brass it is intolerable. The following modification will allow the rifle to function reliably yet will deposit the brass into a small area to the right front of the shooter. It also will lessen the hazard to bystanders. Velocity of the ammunition used is not effected.

    Use standard 7.62x39 ammunition or the equivalent hand load with 123-125 grain bullets when making this modification. The gas system of the SKS allows for more than enough gas port pressure to drive the piston back in the gas tube and cycle the action. This was designed this way to ensure absolute reliable functioning in extreme temperatures and conditions. What this modification does is simply to “vent” the gas after it has imparted enough motion to the piston to cycle the action with out driving it so violently back. As this modification vents the gas rather quickly the use of other than standard ammunition to regulate this cycling may cause malfunctions then when standard ammunition is used.

    Attention cast bullet shooters: if you want to shoot really reduced loads with light bullets then regulate it with that. With Lee's 312-155 or heavier bullets I've found functioning to be fine with the conversion made for standard ammo. When medium burning powders (4895, etc.) are used and velocity is in the 1600 fps range I've not had any malfunctions.

    To accomplish this modification it will require the following tools:

    15 drill bits from #45 (smallest) to #31 (largest)
    Center punch
    Small round file
    Electric drill, cordless or hand drill if power is available at range.

    Before going to the range remove the gas tube from the SKS and take out the piston. On each side of the gas tube center punch .22” back from the face of the gas tube. Center punch .35” back from the face of the gas tube directly on top. Now drill each with the #45 drill. You will now have 3 holes, one on each side and one on top. The hole on top will be slightly further back from the ones on the sides. Debur the inside of the tube with the file lightly and reassemble the piston into the tube and assemble it back onto the rifle. Load up the tools, ammo and rifle and head to the range.

    Fire 5 rounds and observe the ejection pattern and how violent the action cycles. Drill out the top hole only using one size drill larger at a time. Test firing with at least 3 rounds between each drilling. You must disassemble the gas tube each time to drill.

    NOTE:
    I have found on several Russian SKSs that with 2 side holes of #45 size and the top hole of #31 size they will lay the brass into and area of about 3 feet diameter about 6-8 feet to my right front when shooting from a sitting position. The recoil of the rifle is much easier to manage as the action is not functioning nearly so violently. A couple have required the 2 side holes to be enlarged to #40 drill bit size.

    Several SKSs have required an additional hole .3” behind the top one to subdue the ejection of 150 gr bullet top end loads. With this tube factory 123 - 125 gr and equivalent loads ejects very softly right outside the SKS. Any reduction other than full loads (I use 22.5 gr H4227 behind the 123 - 125 gr J bullets) results in malfunctions. If the first three holes have not “vented” enough gas, then drill this 4th hole. Again, starting with the #45 drill bit and going one size larger with a test firing each time. If standard j bullet loads are going to be used with the same tube, I suggest test both between each drill size.

    CAUTION
    It is easy to get impatient and drill to much too quick without adequate test firing, DON’T!! You can’t put the metal back. If you do mess it up new gas tubes are available at gun shows and out of Shotgun News for a reasonable price. If you’re not sure of your abilities get one first and try it before messing up the original. I have not messed any up using the above method. I have one tube (original Chinese tube that does fit the Russian with minimal fitting) that when used on my favorite Russian will lay the brass almost within arm's reach.

    The photo shows my current 2 tubes. I have done quite a few of these for others but don't have photos of them. The front tube is the Chinese tube and you can see the larger rear hole. It is the tube I use with my heavier 150 gr cast bullet loads. The rear tube is the original Russian tube and it is drilled for J bullet factory, milsurp and reloads. Switching out tubes is easy and it's nice to have both so you might want to consider getting a second tube also.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	001.JPE 
Views:	34 
Size:	36.7 KB 
ID:	307830
    Larry Gibson

    “Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
    ― Nikola Tesla

  2. #42
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    NW Alabama
    Posts
    244
    Thanks Larry, I though that is the procedure. I have several steel cased 123 gr J'd boolits. All my reloads will be 155gr, cast, powder coated boolits.
    Once I get the sight corrected this will be my next modification. How fast are your top end loads??????
    Thanks for the method, I'll print it
    JAMES
    JAMESGR

  3. #43
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    4,612
    The 155 or 160 cast Powder coated is my favorite.
    I do cast them with Linotype lead just because it is harder and less chance of leading , even with the PC.

  4. #44
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    NW Alabama
    Posts
    244
    I bought some type lead, not sure which it is. It's in single letters if that helps identify it.
    JAMES
    JAMESGR

  5. #45
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    4,612
    That Typing lead should be plenty hard enough.
    Just try pressing a dent in it with a screwdriver.
    And compare it to the same thing done on a Wheel Weight.
    I make my own Hard Lead mixes like Lino and Mono.
    But most of my shooting is done with WW lead.
    It will work in rifles especially with Gas Checked boolits

  6. #46
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    SW Wyoming
    Posts
    540
    *IF* you were moving the *FRONT* sight the direction you wanted to move the POI as stated in the original post, you moved it the wrong way. Sounds like you went to a lot of trouble to fix a non existing problem. Rear sight moves the direction you want POI to move. Front sight moves the opposite direction.
    The SKS is one of my favorite rifles. I have had many over the years and never had to remove pins or move the sight base to get them shooting right.

  7. #47
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Indian trail NC
    Posts
    784
    he moved it correctly from the first post made

  8. #48
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    NW Alabama
    Posts
    244
    Thanks for the replies. I was able to visit my gunsmith last night and we decided to re crown the barrel before proceeding with the sight movement. I ordered the correct mandrel for the SKS from Brownell's last night. Should be here in a couple of days. I'll keep ya'll updated.
    Thank ya'll
    JAMES
    JAMESGR

  9. #49
    Boolit Master
    nekshot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    swmissouri
    Posts
    3,116
    I opened my gas ports as Larry has a good tutorial on it in a back post. Love shooting the gun as the action is not as violent.
    Look twice, shoot once.

  10. #50
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    NW Alabama
    Posts
    244
    Thanks for the replies.
    Yesterday, I received the mandrel to use to crown the SKS. I also realized that I've never really had a good set of drill bits. So, yesterday I finally bought a set of cobalt bits 115pcs. and a 60pcs titanium set. Now I have two sets of bits to choose from to make the gas modification on the SKS.
    Maybe the POA and POI problem will be corrected and the brass will land close to the bench.
    My gunsmith texted that he now has covid. I texted I'd see him after New Year.
    I'll keep ya'll updated,
    JAMES
    JAMESGR

  11. #51
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Perryville, Ky,USA
    Posts
    4,513
    Probably the best solution./beagle

    Quote Originally Posted by jdfoxinc View Post
    You could always do a native American fix. Find a tree with a narrow fork and bend the barrel until it shoots to the desired poi.
    diplomacy is being able to say, "nice doggie" until you find a big rock.....

  12. #52
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    NW Alabama
    Posts
    244
    beagle, I sure hope fixing the crown works. If not I may have to bend the barrel. Of course a little goes a long way. A small bend can move POI several inches at 100 yrs. I'm waiting for my gunsmith to check negative for covid.
    Thanks for the input,
    JAMES
    JAMESGR

  13. #53
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SRC Northwest FL
    Posts
    670
    Relative accuracy, just like M2 garand, bedding of the action can be beneficial. I have not done it, but others I know that were doing military rifle shoots were doing some work on the bedding.
    My norinco SKS would shoot two equidistant lateral groups. Vertical was about 2.5 inches and distance for lateral dispersion was about 5 inches. I never worked with the bedding, but I could see a lot space between the stock and the receiver on the gun. I put the SKS aside in favor of other guns.

  14. #54
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Lake Havasu City, Arizona
    Posts
    21,305
    Quote Originally Posted by JAMESGR View Post
    beagle, I sure hope fixing the crown works. If not I may have to bend the barrel. Of course a little goes a long way. A small bend can move POI several inches at 100 yrs. I'm waiting for my gunsmith to check negative for covid.
    Thanks for the input,
    JAMES
    JAMESGR
    Bend the barrel? Really....... Please don't, it is not that difficult to straighten up the front sight.

    Suggestion; secure the rifle in a padded vise where you can look at it from just behind the butt of the stock. Put a piece of bar stock across the rear sight flat where the range markings are. From the butt end look down the barrel and see if the front sight assembly is perpendicular to the bar stock. Odds are it is canted slightly. Do as already outlined in previous posts to straighten the front sight. It is a lot easier to straighten up the front sight assembly than to bubba bend the barrel and will fix the problem.
    Larry Gibson

    “Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
    ― Nikola Tesla

  15. #55
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    NW Alabama
    Posts
    244
    Your right Larry. If the crowning and moving the sight doesn't work. Then I may look at cutting a couple inches off the end of the barrel and installing a new sight.
    I sure hope it doesn't come to any radical changes. I really don't want to cut the barrel.
    Now, just waiting for my smith to get over covid.
    Thanks for the reply,
    JAMES

  16. #56
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Gilbertville, Iowa
    Posts
    113
    I bought a yugo sks a few years back. Shot 6-8" off. Got to looking at it, and it must have fallen sometime and the rear sight was bent. Got a replacement from Numrich and it is a shooter now.

  17. #57
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    4,612
    I had a Yugo SKS a few years back.
    It shot great.
    But now that I got rid of it , I wonder why I never tried to reduce the shell ejection by modifying the valve that is for the grenade launcher.

  18. #58
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jan 2023
    Location
    Chicago,IL
    Posts
    23
    My norinco sks had a similar issue, ended up being a slightly canted front sight as others have mentioned. Ended up giving it to a gunsmith buddy of mine in trade for a line of credit lol
    “Sticks and stones may break my bones, but hollow points expand on impact”

  19. #59
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    NW Alabama
    Posts
    244
    I got my barrel crowned and now waiting for good weather to test shoot before doing anything else to the rifle. Maybe this will fix the issue. I'll keep ya'll posted.
    James

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check