Unless you’re in an area that has extremely rocky soil do you self a big favor and rent an auger! If your soil is extremely rocky don’t bother all you’ll do is break the auger.
Long, Wide, Deep, and Without Hesitation!
sorta on topic- anyone ever use the foam that's advertised for setting posts?
Loren
Ok, kids & dogs.
Dogs are diggers,, while kids are the climbers.
To stop diggers.
From the inside. Dig a shallow trench 2 ft wide, along the edge of the chain link (which should be at least 2"-3" underground.) The trench can be 3-4 inches deep but MUST be wide.
Get some good wire fencing,,3 ft wide, (doesn't have to be chain link,) and lay it in the shallow trench, then fold it 90 degrees up the chain link. Attach it to the chain link. Bury the wire in the shallow trench with gravel.
An dog will go to the fence, look through, and if they try to dig in the gravel, they will only get 3"-4" down & hit a solid wire barrier. They do not know the back up 2 ft away from the fence to try & dig under.
It's best to do this with the initial install, instead of after the fact.
A Tip-of-the-Hat to the MANY excellent ideas penned. I am in sandy Florida soil and never once thought about clay plugging the bottom of posts, or letting the concrete set up a while, or embedment of posts sufficiently deep for the soil AND weather conditions (we get like 3 "sweater weather" days here annually), or drilling a drainage hole above the concrete, or letting the fence stretch overnight, or the host of other REALLY GREAT ideas. Goes to show that one size does not fit all.
Good luck.
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
I had a big dog, (Akita) who would dig under my 6" chain link fence. The soil was quite soft so, I got a lot of single cut broken saw blades from a sawmill and pounded it tooth-side down along the fence bottom. He tried to dig under in 3 or 4 places and then he just gave up. As far as posts go, I used metal pipe in cement no rotting posts ---ever!
R.D.M.
I have run plenty by my self. As said in post 6 there is most all of what you need to know. Just make sure you understand plumb, level and square.
[The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze
You want to be real careful what you let such people see relative to your belongings, children, and security. Sometimes not so much the contractor but the 'helpers'. Also be wary of the laborers working for neighbors. They see something they like, they may come back for it on some night.
They make a walk behind auger/skid steer/many other attachments that is my go to for making holes. It is tracked, will go anywhere, doesn't beat the heck out of your body while using it... Called a Dingo and well worth the money in time saved and less body abuse.
I did a trench and buried 3" of the fence to keep the dog from digging out. Used a flat bar for a stretcher, 30 yrs ago, fence still there.
Whatever!
Does sloped ground need special consideration? For example the first half of my backyard is level, but then there’s a grade and the ground might be a foot lower in the very back.
Only if, for aesthetics, you desire to see a constant top-of-fence line. Then you will have to deal with the "foot lower" in the back through longer posts and additional fence fabric, or another means of closure. If aesthetics are not paramount, just follow the contour of the ground.
Anchor and secure the fence fabric to an up-slope braced frame first. Pull the fabric taut. Consider a braced frame at the point of transition from level to sloped grade. If it's a radical slope change, then include a braced frame. Radical is a "V" transition where it may be necessary to stop-start the fence fabric.
Adjust tension on a gentle grade change and allow the fabric to transition to the lower slope posts, securing it as you go down grade. Chain link fence fabric is "somewhat forgiving" in transition down a gentle slope, but there is a limit. The top of the fabric will be taut. The bottom will try to creep into the ground or will "bunch" and be less taut.
Last edited by Land Owner; 12-08-2022 at 05:49 AM.
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
1. All of my customers wanted the fence to follow the terrain.
2. But you may have to do a little digging and or add extra posts to level out the site so that you have a suitable site to follow the terrain.
3. You have to consider if you have pets and wild animals that dig to get in or get out. I have run a fence charger to keep digging by dogs at the bottom of the fence...or bury the fence 3 or 4" into the ground....but with the quality of the fabric available it will soon rust!
4. I like to run the bottom of the fence several inches off the terrain so that you can weed eat the site. On the ground will eat up line on the weed eater or you can use Eraser or ground sterilizer to keep weeds and grass in check.
When guns are outlawed only criminals and the government will have them and at that time I will see very little difference in either!
"Within the covers of the Bible are the answers for all the problems man faces." President Ronald Reagan
"We must reject the idea that every time a law's broken, society is guilty rather than the law breaker. It is time to restore the American precept that each individual is acoutable for his actions." Presdent Ronald Reagan
Thanks to all! I’ve got four terminal post set in concrete. Let’s see what I learn the hard way
What precautions are needed when drilling post holes within 25 feet of my septic tank field lines? I am drilling below the water line.
1.) Knowing how the field is constructed is a start. Some are:
1.a.) lengths of shallow French drain (parallel pipes, each surrounded by gravel)
1.b.) shallow vaults surrounded by gravel
1.c.) mounds above the water table
1.d.) gravelless pipe
1.e.) pressurized dosing
2.) Know the field's limits and STAY OFF. The operation of equipment OVER or ON TOP of an existing leach field is a recipe for disaster as that will consolidate the soil, crush pipe, decrease the percolation rate, and shorten the life of the field. Flag the limits with orange tape, then don't drive over the tape.
3.) regarding post holes drilled below the groundwater line - no problemo. It is the way we roll in Florida, where the groundwater table in many places is often within 12 inches of the surface. The constant temperature and soil moisture will slowly strengthen the concrete in which the posts are set, sometime well above the concrete's design strength.
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
Well, at 76, with a bad back and no skills, my favorite tools are a checkbook and a pen.
"Experience is a series of non-fatal mistakes"
Disarming is a mistake free people only get to make once...
Thanks Land Owner! The heaviest equipment is me carrying a Harbor Freight auger, so the septic system is safe. I was just wondering if there’s sewage in the underground water that could get me sick. Looks like there’s nothing to worry about.
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