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Thread: Sharps Rifle suggestions

  1. #81
    Boolit Master Lead pot's Avatar
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    Sorry my error on the caliber. I missed that post.
    I don't know how familiar you are with the M swage dies (I think Dave is calling them the Pro Swage now) but for a large rifle caliber your going to be at a limit on the alloy hardness, even then you will have to use that loading press at the bottom of the lever stroke to get enough force forming the bullet properly unless you put a cheater on the press handle
    I started swaging using the Hemp dies and a Pacific loading press basically the same as a Rock Chucker and I had to make several short strokes on the bottom and screw the die down after every stroke till the bullet was formed. I ended switching to the Herters press.
    I still have some dies C&H but they are pistol dies.
    I pretty much quit swaging because now days you can get good moulds that will cast a bullet of good quality once you learn how to get a good bullet drop from the mould.

    Enjoy your coming trip with the Shiloh. It's a good rifle to start with, just don't get discouraged on that trip.

  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thundermaker View Post
    Corbin tells me that their die for rockchuckers will be perfectly sufficient for what I'm trying to do. They're about $280. They offer a design with a 1.5e ogive. They also said that a dual-diameter wouldn't be a problem.

    I planned to go with swaging because it would give me better uniformity and ensure that there are no voids in the bullet. It would also give me a perfect nose and a perfect base, as opposed to a mold that would force me to choose between the two.

    I was going to try the cup base because it is supposed to mitigate feathering.
    I know very little about swaging. I was not aware that I could get into it for that low of cost. I am going to have to look into it more. I have a bunch of molds but nothing sized for paper patching. I am planning to switch to PP so the timing for a swaging die is good.

    Will a standard swaging setup handle 16-1 alloy?

    I have my own machine shop so I can build whatever I want but for the first one I most likely purchase and copy.
    2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

    "Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
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    "The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
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  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-Tecs View Post
    I know very little about swaging. I was not aware that I could get into it for that low of cost. I am going to have to look into it more. I have a bunch of molds but nothing sized for paper patching. I am planning to switch to PP so the timing for a swaging die is good.

    Will a standard swaging setup handle 16-1 alloy?

    I have my own machine shop so I can build whatever I want but for the first one I most likely purchase and copy.
    I don't know about the alloy. That's a question I'm going to ask corbin.

  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lead pot View Post
    I don't know how familiar you are with the M swage dies (I think Dave is calling them the Pro Swage now) but for a large rifle caliber your going to be at a limit on the alloy hardness, even then you will have to use that loading press at the bottom of the lever stroke to get enough force forming the bullet properly unless you put a cheater on the press handle
    I started swaging using the Hemp dies and a Pacific loading press basically the same as a Rock Chucker and I had to make several short strokes on the bottom and screw the die down after every stroke till the bullet was formed. I ended switching to the Herters press.
    I still have some dies C&H but they are pistol dies.
    I pretty much quit swaging because now days you can get good moulds that will cast a bullet of good quality once you learn how to get a good bullet drop from the mould.
    I was typing and missed your reply. Sounds like for most of the alloys that I would want to use hydraulics would be required. If that's the case that's a deeper rabbit hole than I want to go down at this point.
    2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

    "Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
    – Amber Veal

    "The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
    - Wayne Dyer

  5. #85
    Boolit Master Lead pot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-Tecs View Post
    I was typing and missed your reply. Sounds like for most of the alloys that I would want to use hydraulics would be required. If that's the case that's a deeper rabbit hole than I want to go down at this point.
    No you don't need the Hydraulic equipment but I would not go with less than the S equipment. Better yet look for the press and dies that Richard Corbin made. The Walnut Hill press and his 7/8X14 dies are very good. I swage 1/16 and alloys with antimony in the mix using Richards equipment.
    I blew a die with 1/14 alloy using the CSP-! S dies from Dave Corbin.
    I understand that he made some changes but I know nothing about this. I used the CSP-1-S equipment before changing to the Walnut Hill.

  6. #86
    Boolit Buddy

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    I have a pile of new 45-90 brass. Could spare 50 rounds to get you started!
    Charlie 724 321-2031

  7. #87
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    OH NO I just bought a used but in good shape Armi rifle in .54 percussion I see your comment on Quality did I goof!

    I have a Sharps Shiloh I ordered in 1985 I do not know how it stacks against todays rifles . I ordered it in 50-140 (50-3 1/4" ) 34" #1 taper it is a lot more accurate then I am.
    Get the best sights if you want to shoot a mile do you plan on scoping it?
    I have heard all the comments and whining between 50 & 45 Caliber I went with the 50 because I read to much Elmer Keith ....
    When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.

  8. #88
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    Not planning on scoping it just yet. I don't know of a mount that would allow enough elevation. Depending on how I like my first shiloh, it may not be the last. We'll see.

  9. #89
    Boolit Master

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    Sometimes I wish I would have got mine in 45-70 but the 50 is a neat round .
    When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.

  10. #90
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    I went with a .45-100.

  11. #91
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    Mould is here

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Dual diameter PP mould from BACO. 545gr .453 diameter at the base.

    I didn't know they cast you an example bullet and put it in the box.

    545gr is just a gnat hair from 1.25oz ! I can't wait to cast a few and get them loaded. I'm genuinely excited about this project, like a kid at Christmas. If I do manage to hit that steel, this bullet is going to womp it good.

    I was a little worried that my fat fingers wouldn't be able to wrap them, but, now that I see how massive they actually are, I don't think it'll be an issue.

  12. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thundermaker View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Dual diameter PP mould from BACO. 545gr .453 diameter at the base.

    I didn't know they cast you an example bullet and put it in the box.

    545gr is just a gnat hair from 1.25oz ! I can't wait to cast a few and get them loaded. I'm genuinely excited about this project, like a kid at Christmas. If I do manage to hit that steel, this bullet is going to womp it good.

    I was a little worried that my fat fingers wouldn't be able to wrap them, but, now that I see how massive they actually are, I don't think it'll be an issue.
    You may find that bullet at .453 on the base difficult to fit in a case without expanding it, after wrapping it. There is only one paper that will work with that size of bullet the Seth Cole 55Y. .452 is a bit snug in my fire formed brass with Seth Cole 55W paper wet wrapped. That bullet was designed specifically for a Shiloh Chamber btw.

    Kenny Wasserburger Click image for larger version. 

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  13. #93
    Boolit Bub dirtball's Avatar
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    Just curious, is the rifle Mr. Goodman has coming a standard 18 twist? That DDPP bullet is 1.46 long I believe, that is going to be right on the edge with an 18 twist even in a 45-100? Or am I wrong?

    Dave
    "How a politician stands on the Second Amendment tells you how he or she views you as an individual... as a trustworthy and productive citizen, or as part of an unruly crowd that needs to be lorded, controlled, supervised, and taken care of."
    --Rep. Suzanna Gratia Hupp (TX)

  14. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtball View Post
    Just curious, is the rifle Mr. Goodman has coming a standard 18 twist? That DDPP bullet is 1.46 long I believe, that is going to be right on the edge with an 18 twist even in a 45-100? Or am I wrong?

    Dave
    Well, I called up Steve Brooks to see about a custom mold, since BACO offers every diameter except the one I need. That was a question I asked him. He said I could actually go even heavier if I wanted.

  15. #95
    Boolit Master
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    BACO will customize any of their molds diameters. From what I remember, I paid an extra $10 for that service.

    Chris.

  16. #96
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtball View Post
    Just curious, is the rifle Mr. Goodman has coming a standard 18 twist? That DDPP bullet is 1.46 long I believe, that is going to be right on the edge with an 18 twist even in a 45-100? Or am I wrong?

    Dave
    Dave you are correct, the bullet was designed for a Shiloh Chamber with a 16-1 twist in 45-110. I know as Myself with help from Jim Kluskins and Arnie designed that bullet for My 25# Shiloh.

    It has shot very well in my rifle to date winning top Scope At Alliance Neb the past 2 years in a row and 1000 yards at my match past 2 years in a row 2nd overall in Creedmoor and 1 mile past couple years.

    Kenny W.

  17. #97
    Boolit Master
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    Kenny now that you've been using that one a while I'm curious. Do you like it more than a straight bore diameter bullet?

    Chris.

  18. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenny Wasserburger View Post
    Dave you are correct, the bullet was designed for a Shiloh Chamber with a 16-1 twist in 45-110. I know as Myself with help from Jim Kluskins and Arnie designed that bullet for My 25# Shiloh.

    It has shot very well in my rifle to date winning top Scope At Alliance Neb the past 2 years in a row and 1000 yards at my match past 2 years in a row 2nd overall in Creedmoor and 1 mile past couple years.

    Kenny W.
    Well, being that the specified paper is readily available and not awfully expensive, I guess I'll just proceed with the mold.

    Any particular reason why you chose to design it for that paper? I suppose the thinner the paper, the more likely it will dissentigrate off at the muzzle.

  19. #99
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thundermaker View Post
    Well, being that the specified paper is readily available and not awfully expensive, I guess I'll just proceed with the mold.

    Any particular reason why you chose to design it for that paper? I suppose the thinner the paper, the more likely it will dissentigrate off at the muzzle.
    Thin paper that’s not thicker than Groove diameter depth results in perfect confetti at the muzzle. Fat bullets and thin paper, equal best accuracy in my opinion.

    Chris it’s a great bullet in my 110 with the 16-1 twist. It’s probably too long for a 18-1 twist to realize best accuracy at long range. I don’t know if it’s any better than a standard Bore rider PP though. I need to recover some of them at my mile target and see what they look like.

    Kenny W.

  20. #100
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks Kenny.

    Chris.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check