Modifing a mold

[technojock]

I'd like to load cast bullets for my K-Hornet but the 2 .225" molds I have (both Lyman) are for 55g bullets. I've been thinking about getting a Lee C225-55-RF mold and redneck milling it down to produce something in the 45g range.

Is this a crazy idea? I'm not sure if I'll just be trashing a good mold or if I'm likely to make it work...

Tony

[stubshaft]

I had the gas-check portion milled off on a Bator mold for my K-Hornet. It weighed 45 grains and shot great (better than the original), considering that the only problem I had with Bator molds in general was the GC fit.

[Winger Ed.]

I'd try it. Lee molds are Alum. instead of Iron so it should be pretty easy to file down.
And cheap enough it wouldn't be a tragedy if you trashed it.
You might want to watch a youtube video or learn how to keep your file cutting right and not clogging up.

I'd put the blocks in a vice where only the amount you wanted to take off stuck out.
I'd work like those dies you run a case in and file the neck off until you hit the top of the die.
I'd do it with a long file to help keep the top of the blocks true, and be real careful doing it.
You might need to tap the sprue plate hole deeper, but it sounds doable.

Something that might help is to cast up a few boolits with the mold,
and file the base down on a couple until you get the weight you want.
Paint the bases with a sharpie & put them back in the mold.
That should help tell you how far to file down the top of the mold.

Another option is find someone or a shop with a milling machine and make your best deal.

[Dusty Bannister]

Slick idea Ed to use the marked bullets as a depth indicator.

[HWooldridge]

My only caution is to make very sure the datum for the new base is perpendicular with the centerline of the bullet, whether it's milled or filed. Otherwise, even a slight angle will cause erratic grouping.

[IMADMAN]

Check MP molds I believe they have a 46 gr. Mold

[Winger Ed.]

Slick idea Ed to use the marked bullets as a depth indicator.

A sharpie is one of the best and most often used tools on my bench.

[technojock]

Check MP molds I believe they have a 46 gr. Mold

They have a .35g mold but I'm not thrilled with the design. I'll give it some more thought but I'm also not sure I want an 8 pot mold...

Tony

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I had great results in my 22 Hornet, a Savage 219 with the Lyman 225415. Have you tried the heavier bullets?

[technojock]

I've not tried any cast boolits from my K-Hornet yet. I have 2 Lyman .225 molds, one is an old single cavity mold that Lee copied to make the bator mold and the other one is a semi-pointed design that I bought new sometime in the past 10 years...

If I get my Martini working, it has a 1 in 16 twist barrel and likely won't stabilize a bullet much over 40g. My Ruger 77 .22 Hornet has a Benchmark stainless barrel and I don't know the twist rate. I'm still PO'ed at the guy that installed the barrel so I'm not going to ask him and he's not likely to answer me anyway.

Tony

[IMADMAN]

They have a .35g mold but I'm not thrilled with the design. I'll give it some more thought but I'm also not sure I want an 8 pot mold...

Tony

Pretty sure it's a 3 cavity, H.P. or Solid. .227

[technojock]

I didn't look at the .227, I figured it was something special for the .22 Savage High Power...

Anyway I have a lot to think about with all the good answers here. I'll post more if I decide to try this later on. Right now it's still in the planning stage...

Tony

[MostlyLeverGuns]

My Savage 219 had a 1-16, bullet length is more important than weight for stability/instability due to twist, a longer 45 grain won't stabilize as well as a shorter 55 grain. Many theories fall about on the firing range. Before shortening a mold 'just because', try casting/loading some bullets before the change, might save you some delicate work. The 225415 I mentioned is a 55 grain gas check bullet that works in both 22 Hornet and 218 Bee with 1-16 twist. The 1-16 twist does make cast bullet accuracy in the .22's much easier.

[technojock]

I'd need to check but I think I have that Lyman mold. I have about 20 Lyman molds and at least that many Lee molds... I'm not good a remembering numbers and as I already have too many I need to remember. I'll take inventory some day but I'm not in a hurry to do so...

Tony

[technojock]

The 225415 I mentioned is a 55 grain gas check bullet that works in both 22 Hornet and 218 Bee with 1-16 twist. The 1-16 twist does make cast bullet accuracy in the .22's much easier.

I think the Lyman mold I have is a newer number that the one you mention but it does end in 415. I didn't cast very many and I'm not thrilled with how these came out. I was having trouble getting the mold hot enough and since I should have been doing other things, I quit after I had a few example of what the mold makes...

Tony

[farmbif]

I would try some first just like they are. slow twist barrels and cast bullets very often go together like biscuits and gravy or tea and honey.
if you need a lighter shorter bullet NOE has several mold designs to choose from.
rather than modify a perfectly good mold if its one your not going to use sell it to offset the cost of a new one. I do believe it is much more difficult to sell a modified mold than one that is in original condition.

[ndnchf]

I milled down a Lee 515450 mold to drop the weight from 450 to 350 gr. It worked out well. I see no reason you can't do the same thing.

[technojock]

That's exactly what I was thinking about doing. When I get around to it, I'll also modify a Lee mold so I'm not risking very much money... BTW, your work on that looks great.

Tony

[ndnchf]

Give it a shot - There is no time like the present!

[country gent]

Dont over look a lathe and 4 jaw chuck set the blocks in the chuck and face down. his can be an easier set up