Garand intermittent Light Strikes, FTF

[Bmi48219]

While sighting in my buddy’s recently acquired Garand we experienced frequent FTFs. The primers on all the failed rounds evidenced light firing pin strikes. Some of the pin indentations were barely perceptible and others appeared weak but noticeable. Using factory loaded ammo the FTF rate was 70%. The action seemed to properly function for the rounds that did fire.
A local ‘smith had recently replaced the barrel, prompting this range trip, but I believe my buddy had not fired this rifle prior to the barrel change.
I also noted the safety would not engage with the breech closed.

I confess to knowing nothing about Garands. At first I thought the firing pin movement was restricted by gunk or corrosion but the round that did fire showed solid pin impact.
In light of the barrel replacement, could this be a headspace issue? Or is there something else to look at first?
Thanks

[garandsrus]

Are you letting the op-rod close the bolt all the way? You want it to close with some force, which rotates the bolt into its final position. The rifle is not supposed to fire if the bolt is not fully in position.

[steveu]

Worn firing pin??? You can look up how to measure the correct amount of protrusion from the face of bolt.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I'll go with steveu-- the firing pin could be worn. Other possibilities would be that the hammer spring in the trigger group needs replaced (less likely), or the chamber needs a good cleaning.

DG

[country gent]

Check that the bolt is fully rotating fully closed every time. ( push down in the bolt lug and feel for any movement} there is a bridge in the action with a cut out for the firing pins tang. This is what keeps the rifle from firing before its fully in battery.

With the new barrel install make sure its not tight on the loaded round. Size some fired cases moving the shoulder back only .002 with a lull length die and see how they do. If available use a small based die.

There was a sled clip made for the garands for easy single loading ( single loading enhancement device) ir locks in the action and allows one round to be snapped in and chamber the same as from a full clip.

If the hammer isnt cocked the safety wont engage.

[Calamity Jake]

The action could be dry, dry means more friction. Try some lube, Balastol comes to mind!

[ShooterAZ]

Disassemble the bolt and give it a very thorough cleaning. Lightly oil the channel for the firing pin before reassembling. If that doesn't solve the problem, you may have a worn firing pin. You can get replacement parts from Fulton Armory if needed.

https://www.fulton-armory.com/M1-Garand-Parts.aspx

[georgerkahn]

If it were me, I'd ring Michael Pucci (or, if there -- Anthony Pucci -- Michael's dad) at Orion7 in Middle Island, Long Island, New York. They proclaim themselves a "Garand Specialists" and, quite frankly, in my opinion this is very much an understatement!!! Their web-site, which has telephone numbers and open hours is: https://www.m1garand.com/
My M1 Garand experience is they can be "funny ducks". Someone who know, I mean really knows -- is more than worth the 'phone call. PLUS, they generally have needed parts at more than competitive ('cept for rare collector stuff ) pricing.
geo

[Fitz]

Something you might try also is measure a case that is fired verses a resized case , you might have a headspace issue.

[M-Tecs]

While sighting in my buddy’s recently acquired Garand we experienced frequent FTFs. The primers on all the failed rounds evidenced light firing pin strikes. Some of the pin indentations were barely perceptible and others appeared weak but noticeable. Using factory loaded ammo the FTF rate was 70%. The action seemed to properly function for the rounds that did fire.
A local ‘smith had recently replaced the barrel, prompting this range trip, but I believe my buddy had not fired this rifle prior to the barrel change.
I also noted the safety would not engage with the breech closed.

I confess to knowing nothing about Garands. At first I thought the firing pin movement was restricted by gunk or corrosion but the round that did fire showed solid pin impact.
In light of the barrel replacement, could this be a headspace issue? Or is there something else to look at first?
Thanks

If the FTF started with the barrel replacement it's likely a headspace issue or a bolt rotation issue. It should go back to the smith to correct. Most average smiths have a limited knowledge of M1 Garands and or M-14's.

Garand firing pins do not wear per say but they do break.

Also pull the trigger group out and ensure trigger pin is fully seated. The larger pin heads should be flush. Check the hammer spring at the same time.

[john.k]

Light strike is likely caused by the bolt not closing fully........the hammer hits the ramp on the back of the bolt ,and has to close the bolt as well as driving the firing pin.

[1Hawkeye]

It sound like the smith may have cut the chamber too deep as for the safety check it like M-tech said because if the hammer is cocked the safety should engage reguardless whether the action is closed or open it should even work when the trigger group is out of the rifle. The other thing to check is to make sure the tracks the bolt lugs ride in are clean and very lightly greased its a chance that the smith got a couple of chips in the front of the track thats keeping the bolt from closing in battery 100%.

[Ford SD]

Garand Issues

Start with the basic stuff

You said you tried factory ??? what factory rounds .... try pushing a round in to the chamber with your finger ???? will it come out using a fingernail

take the recoil spring out and do/ try the tilt test
then try the tilt test with the stock on .................. if it does not pass could be a wood problem

check head space ?? good / short / or long

if it has a new barrel check that it is indexed right , can be done in a gun vice using the flats on the front sight & Flat behind rear sight

is it extracting 100% .... it it is extracting if it is Head space is good or too short
if it was too long it would not get the rim of the case under the extractor
if it gets the rim under the extractor it should fire ...... unless bolt is not rotating far enough to unblock hammer = short head space or other problem

[Hick]

Nobody seems to have noticed that you said the safety does not engage. The safety in the Garand is completely contained in the trigger/hammer group. if the safety won't engage there may be a problem with the trigger group-- perhaps something rubbing that prevents the hammer from properly striking.

[M-Tecs]

Nobody seems to have noticed that you said the safety does not engage. The safety in the Garand is completely contained in the trigger/hammer group. if the safety won't engage there may be a problem with the trigger group-- perhaps something rubbing that prevents the hammer from properly striking.

I guess in need remedial reading classes since I did not notice that. That strongly indicates that the trigger pin is backed out or damaged. As I stated above the large head of the pin needs to be flush.

http://civilianmarksmanship.com/stri...%20disassemble.

At 34 seconds in the video this is what you don't want to see.

[Bmi48219]

Thanks for all the pointers. As I said, I have no idea of this rifle's history but was told it was acquired less than a year ago, not fired by the new owner, barrel was replaced for unknown reason. I gather the new barrel was of an upgraded variety but can’t say what exactly, other than it was new.
Am told the ammo was not reloaded, as it was in clips but I failed to look at HS. I did compare several of the loaded rounds but couldn’t see any variation in length, but didn’t have a tool to get exact lengths. Ditto for being able to see any variation in base-to-shoulder length.
Being unfamiliar with Garands I can’t say if the bolt slams forward with sufficient force or not, but pulling the trigger did result in a click indicating the release the firing pin on every attempt to shoot.
The rifle did eject both the spent brass and FTF cartridges every time. Some of the FTF cartridges had just the slightest firing pin mark, some had more significant pin impressions, but none as deep as the cases of the rounds that actually fired.
With a round chambered I couldn’t get the safety lever to move rearward. Couldn’t get it to move back on a empty chamber either, not sure if that is normal but I am guessing it should.
I’ll forward the videos to my buddy. Thanks again.
If the responded suggestions don’t pan out I may be asking for a reference of a Garand gunsmith in East Floriida.

[Gtek]

Oh Boy, where to start on this end. First thing I would recommend is strip weapon and strip bolt. Place factory round in chamber and close bolt with fingers, confirm no rattle and bolt drops all the way down into battery. Second would be to confirm OP spring, length, kinks, kind of hard to weight check without cool tool. Safety not engaging is a for sure something is not correct in there. Where in Florida is this, room full of parts, tools and decades of full builds here, GCA member and all that stuff. If I can help, PM.