Coated bullet leading issue

[sigep1764]

I just checked my manual and 120 grain lead at 1.065, 4.1 grains is a max load. Your load is longer but 5 grains heavier in boolit weight. Minimum load is 3.0 grains. I’d drop the load to 3.2 grains and increase the powder charge until you get functioning slide lock back. Don’t change the powder yet. Try .357 within the 3.2 to 3.9 grains. Then .358 with the same loads.

[dogdoc]

Had a lot of leading problems with bevel base hard cast coated bullets in several calibers. Easy solution that works. Light coat of Lee liquid Alox or 45/45/10. I also do this with with crayon lube hard cast non coated commercial cast.

[dogdoc]

Better yet just skip the coating and lube with liquid Alox or tradition lube

[ChristopherO]

Did you use the same brass? The suggestions prior about tight brass swagging down the projectile is what I learned concerning cast boollits quite a few decades ago. It may have something to do with your issue.

[Dusty Bannister]

Is the bore condition clean and dry or are you giving the barrel a very light coating of lube, just enough to make the bore shine?

[Sefuller]

Haven't been on for a few days, but I did load 15 rounds using the .357 130 gr bullets over 3 grains of VV N320 which others reported as being a faster but cooler powder. Same issue, barrel is leaded along the entire length. Regarding the brass, I am using mixed brass, although I have begun setting aside any CBC brass as it seems to be a little thicker and had created some issues with shaving coating previously. I continue to randomly pull bullets through the process and I am never finding any with compromised coating when I pull them. I should mention I am not producing my own bullets, but buying them from a source recommended by some Bullseye shooter friends. The vendor has been extremely pro-active in trying to help resolve the issue.

[Sefuller]

Furthering my experiments, I loaded thirty rounds of 130 grain Hi-Tek coated bullets sized to 358, over 3.6 grains of VV N320. The results were better - still some leading in the barrel but primarily near the muzzle instead of the entire length of the barrel. These deposits were fairly easily removed using more conventional methods than the struggles I have been dealing with. I plan to order a UniqueTek expander sized to 358 and continue with these bullets trying some different powders.

[45DUDE]

I have a 9mm 1911 that gives me trouble with lead. I shoots really great with 124 plated and doesn't cost much more. It's not the boolits because the lead boolits shoot perfect in another gun

[Elpatoloco]

I load everything on single stage presses. I have had issues as the original poster states. What I have found is that sometimes the cast slug or any slug will cant some on the seating stroke. I remedied this by "bumping" the slug on the upstroke into the seater plug. Slightly rotate the brass with the fingers.....say 1/8 of a turn and then send it back up. My lead slivers stopped. I even had them with powder coat, and do the same thing. I load for an HK and a springfield 9mm and size .357 with zero issues. Standard expanders in every caliber that I load for. All on 1 of the 3 rcbs presses that I use.

[Sefuller]

...What I have found is that sometimes the cast slug or any slug will cant some on the seating stroke...

This can definitely be an issue, and one I have experienced. My remedies have been to get a larger expander die so that the bullet drops deeper into the case, and I use a Redding pro competition seating die which does a better job of aligning the bullet. I still pay particular attention to insure the bullet is not canted. I have pulled enough bullets during the loading process to be pretty confident the coating is not being damaged in the loading process. That being said I have read that the these particular Redding dies are not good for coated bullets, but I can't find anything occurring in my process using them that is causing a problem. The problem I am chasing was occurring before switching to the Redding die.

[Sefuller]

I have a 9mm 1911 that gives me trouble with lead. I shoots really great with 124 plated and doesn't cost much more. It's not the boolits because the lead boolits shoot perfect in another gun

I am pretty close to giving up and just using plated, but I hate leaving problems unsolved

[jsizemore]

A pound cast will tell you what all the chamber/leade/barrel dimensions are. Sounds like your throat is large and bullet is too hard to obturate enough to seal and prevent gas cutting. I had your problem and switched to 50/50 + 1% tin (same as I shoot in my 45acp) and then coated. Bullets are sized to .3575 after coating. A pulled bullet measures .3572-3. Some throats come in at .358. If the bullet hasn't engaged the origin of the rifling before the bullet base leaves the case all kinds of bad things happen. The fast burning powder slaps the rear end of the bullet at just the right time so it bumps up and creates a gas seal. Good Luck with 9mm.

[Sefuller]

A pound cast will tell you what all the chamber/leade/barrel dimensions are.

I am not familiar with that - could you elaborate?

[skeet1]

A person should not forget the dia. of the barrel. You may have a bullet of proper dia. but your barrel is oversized and will still lead with .357-.358 bullets. A person should check the barrel size to be sure, especially with older military guns.

[Sefuller]

A person should not forget the dia. of the barrel. You may have a bullet of proper dia. but your barrel is oversized and will still lead with .357-.358 bullets. A person should check the barrel size to be sure, especially with older military guns.

The barrel slugs at 355

[Elpatoloco]

This can definitely be an issue, and one I have experienced. My remedies have been to get a larger expander die so that the bullet drops deeper into the case, and I use a Redding pro competition seating die which does a better job of aligning the bullet. I still pay particular attention to insure the bullet is not canted. I have pulled enough bullets during the loading process to be pretty confident the coating is not being damaged in the loading process. That being said I have read that the these particular Redding dies are not good for coated bullets, but I can't find anything occurring in my process using them that is causing a problem. The problem I am chasing was occurring before switching to the Redding die.

Well rats, I have never used larger expanding plugs because like you, Ive pulled enough bullets to know what was going on. I shoot some sometimes hard to get brass and like to work it the least amount possible. My habits carried over to regular rounds such as 45,9,10, 357. Neck tension is never a bad thing. On rounds that are tapercrimped, I only remove the bell so it drops in the chamber. I hope you get this ironed out.

Ive read of folks playing Holy Hell with the 9mm. Its just not something I ever ran into.

Ive also gone to shooting straight range scrap in everything but 44 mag and 475. I keep reading how it needs to be harder in my 10mms.....but I powder coat em and have zero leading issues and run the FAST.

[jsizemore]

I am not familiar with that - could you elaborate?

This explains the procedure. I do this with pistol barrels just take the barrel out and take your prepped case and hold the case head and barrel hood against the bench while doing the pounding. Painters, electrical, duct tape will work. I use a 1/4" soft steel rod.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...rifle-chamber)

[45DUDE]

I am pretty close to giving up and just using plated, but I hate leaving problems unsolved

Not having a leading problem at all. My lead boolits are tumbling sized at .357 & .358 and two different powers and two different boolits.<121-.158> I have a Colt 1911 38 super barrel for the same gun and it tumbles the lead also but both group plenty good with plated. All of my reloads do fine in my shooting buddy's gun. I'm leaning on a gun problem but the plating shooting so good I'm not worried at the time. Maybe I need to speed them up--They are doing about 1100fps with the 121's and 1000 with the 158's.

[Sefuller]

Today I had an interesting conversation with a long time Hi-Tek coated bullet user. He postulates that the deposits I am struggling with are in fact carbon deposits, not lead. This would make infinite sense given the difficulties I have had trying to remove them. Unfortunately, if true it puts me back to square one in the quest to determine why I am getting these deposits. Also would need to find a method for cleaning carbon deposits from barrels since I have accumulated an extensive list already of what does not work!