Some of the earlier leupold scopes have a purpleish hue to them.... might be same thing.
Some of the earlier leupold scopes have a purpleish hue to them.... might be same thing.
Thanks for that info, very interesting. A lot of these replies tho are a bit to the extremesIffen your that anal about a color match, buy a new gun.
I simply want the forend cap to loosely match the gun. Perhaps call it a "3 out of 10" on the importance level. It doesnt warrant completely not buying it. It doesnt warrant going to the extreme of buying only a new gun (there are no new browning 1886). It doesn't worrent WORRYING about it 20 years into the future when its going to fade.
I just was wondering if there were a simple solution to reblue it (which I dont know much about), etc.
If the solution is paying someone $100 for a forend cap and they dont care, and I just spent several thousand on a gun, what difference does an extra $100 make? Lol. I'm not sure how this is such a controversial idea.
If no one wants to do that, and there isnt one, then oh well, perhaps Ill come across one in the future on one of the parts websites and buy it.
If looks TRULY dont matter, then why does anyone care about wood figure, or color case hardening? Why do people prefer the look of wood over hideous polymer even though polymer is realistically longer lasting and more durable and waterproof and lighter and ....
Because the idea that people dont care about looks and its not a "beauty pagent" is crazy. many people DO care.
If the idea is that it doesnt matter THAT much, then in that case we agree, it doesnt. But also nothing in my post I dont think really shows that its a big deal. I just asked if anyone has one to swap, or what the options were. Simple as that, it is not like it's a dealbreaker or something, that would be stupid.
At the end of the day, I just know when I go to the range, and the gun is leaning on the rack in super direct sunlight, that purple cap will stand out like an eyesore.
Last edited by Mint; 11-21-2022 at 01:08 AM.
Looks matter to me. As much the bullet as the gun. I like the way 30-30 looks as much as i like the gun. I dislike the way the savage 99 looks as well as the 300 savage cartridge.
Last edited by Bazoo; 11-21-2022 at 01:33 PM.
I wouldn’t care if it was pink! as long as the price was right and it was a rifle i wanted. Well maybe pink might be a little rough. I’d probably use a Magic marker on it. But that’s just me. LOL
Long, Wide, Deep, and Without Hesitation!
For what the seller is asking I would want it perfect also. The real concern I would have would be pic #18, 36 and 37. Is that an optical illusion or as it appears in the pics?
My SRC had some minor stock damage from shipping that was easily repaired. My rifle is like new. For both I spent 50% of the starting bid on the one you are looking at. It took me a year and half to find them for the price I wanted. $900 for the rifle and $600 for the SRC. I bid on a total of 25 to 30 rifles. That was about 10 years ago.
For the money I would try for this one. https://www.gunbroker.com/item/954484195 The shotgun butt is much more shooter friendly.
This one had zero bids at $1,600 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/947267062
On the relist it sold for $2,650 https://www.gunbroker.com/Item/953193924 Luck and timing is everything.
Last edited by M-Tecs; 11-21-2022 at 05:28 AM.
2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
"Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
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"The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
- Wayne Dyer
That part on a Browning 1886 is very likely a casting. It probably didn't leave the factory that color. Many times it takes some time for the plum color to appear on castings, nickel steel, and case hardened parts. Various cold blues will work, but aren't very durable. Far better, and almost as easy, are express rust blues. Strip the "blueing" with muriatic acid, polish lightly with 600 paper, and follow the rust blue instructions. I've had good results with Mark Lee express rust blue solution. Rust blues are not as shiny as hot dip blues, but polishing with 600 grit will make it reasonably shiny.
I am no expert but a friend (gunsmith) who does a lot of weapons restorations told me the purple color can be caused by the temperature (too hot) used during the bluing process. But who knows with certainty. Another weapon I often see with the odd purplish bluing are some of the older Dan Wesson pistol frames.
I may be missing something, but having that end cap reblued by a professional couldn't be that big of a deal.
“Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan
I guess the end cap color would be like everything else about the gun. I either want the entire package for the price offered or something or things make it a no deal. Anything can be fixed but is the price worth it. It sounds like you cannot live with the purple haze so you need to decide how much it will cost to fix it and is it worth it before buying the gun.
If it's a stamped piece of steel, you can strip it and reblue using brown blueing first and then perma blue or oxpho blue. I usually heat to 140F and apply the blueing. I also go down to 1200 grit for a shiny appearance.
Last edited by BRatigan; 11-21-2022 at 03:26 PM.
If the purple nose cap bothers you that much, I would look to get a new one for a Chiappa 1886 Rifle. Taylors & Co has them in stock (nose cap 790.219 + $27.50) The two I have are beautiful case colored.
Send it to Turnbull and have everything color case hardened.
That wouldn’t stop me from buying the gun. If the color bothered me, I would try to redo it with cold blue, maybe trying different brands, because the colors do vary.
I would rather have a hot blued part of a slightly different color than a cold blued part that matched. But I reckon that’s just me.
I have a similar situation with the fore end cap on my 1894 Marlin. I took it off and welded a sling swivel stud into it from the inside. This burnt the bluing. I touched it up by buffing it with a Scotch Bright wheel and then bluing it with some Cold Blue. Everything was cool for a while then over the years it turned brown.
The problem is after welding on it the part has varying hardness thru out. So bluing takes effect at different rates.
I would send it out and have someone Re-Blue it with whatever process they use, Might not be exact but I doubt it was that exact in the first place. Winchester didn't blue individual gun parts from each given gun together. They did batches of the same parts like anyone else would do. Since the metal in the cap is going to be different than the metal in the rest of the gun parts. it would never be "EXACTLY THE SAME!"
Sometimes nit picking only gets you a bloody nose.
Mine is brown now and I don't really care, It adds character to the gun?
Randy
Or Maybe find a "new cap," which considering the model shouldn't be that hard. I just found dozens of them on Ebay !!!
"It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com
I've got a revolver conversion by a well known and thought of smith(now retired) that the bluing has partially gone to plum. I think it adds character.
John
W.TN
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |