Broke the head off my ladle!

[metricmonkeywrench]

Glad to hear it worked out. For us there was always a tap and die set at the house for general DIY repairs and thread chasing. Up at the farm the #10 string bean can held the “set” that complemented the ubiquitous can if screws and bolts. If a hole stripped out it just meant that it was time to go bigger or break out the braising rod. Nowadays that’s updated to include both a simple SAE and Metric set.

The shaft was likely shouldered to bottom out when it hit the ladle portion to act as a stop to tighten against.

[1hole]

..... Certainly not the RCBS legendary customer service. But ya can't fix everyone's stuff for free or you'll go out of business I reckon.

RCBS doesn't/can't fix stuff for "free". Everything has to be paid for by someone and RCBS simply adds the costs of their "free" stuff to the original purchase price. That's a good deal for people who tend to break their tools but it's not such a good deal for those who don't break things so much.

[hpbear101]

I use an old large spoon for skimming my dross off the top, nothing will stick to it so pretty easy to keep it cleared off.

[DougGuy]

I did finally get my ladle repaired. I drilled it out and tapped the hole 12x24 and threaded the shaft to match. It was a bit small for that size of rod, so I ended up making the shaft end smaller and tapered to get the die started. But I used what I had and made it work.

Good on you for getting the old piece out! I just decided to R&R the rear seal in my Miller Big50 diesel welder, oil was freely pouring out. Pulled the pan off and it came down with a loud CLUNK! One of the rear main cap bolts had broken off in the block and the majority of the bolt came down when the pan came down.

I was all prepared for left handed drill bit and ez out, but the old bolt had a chunk of thread sticking up on one side and I was able to align this with the missing spot in the thread and turn the broken part out by hand. Got LUCKY I say!!

In hindsight, I think the oil was leaking from the seam between the main cap and the block, but it's fixed now. Worst part? Finding the 14mm x 95mm bolt to replace it with! There was a grand total of ONE on fleabay but hey one was all I needed..

[beemer]

I would have welded the handle back on. Might not be pretty (I am not a very good welder) but it would stay on.

Robert

Our neighbor had a welder, he did a small job for Dad. After we brought it home Dad looked it over and said, "Looks likes a bulls rear end sewed up with a cow chain, looks sort of ragged but it's good and stout". Had to clean the Dad's language up a bit but you get the drift.

[Bazoo]

RCBS doesn't/can't fix stuff for "free". Everything has to be paid for by someone and RCBS simply adds the costs of their "free" stuff to the original purchase price. That's a good deal for people who tend to break their tools but it's not such a good deal for those who don't break things so much.

I don't disagree. I rarely break things. I also buy most of my gear used. With RCBS' warranty, I've always had free parts and service even when stating that I acquired the item second hand. With something that rarely needs repair like a press it probably is moot. But for the calipers I have, I bought a new set from RCBS. They are made in china, probably from the same factory that makes the harbor freight variety of calipers. But I am paying for the warranty because calipers are more likely to get damaged and need replacement than for example, a loading tray.

[Bazoo]

Good on you for getting the old piece out! I just decided to R&R the rear seal in my Miller Big50 diesel welder, oil was freely pouring out. Pulled the pan off and it came down with a loud CLUNK! One of the rear main cap bolts had broken off in the block and the majority of the bolt came down when the pan came down.

I was all prepared for left handed drill bit and ez out, but the old bolt had a chunk of thread sticking up on one side and I was able to align this with the missing spot in the thread and turn the broken part out by hand. Got LUCKY I say!!

In hindsight, I think the oil was leaking from the seam between the main cap and the block, but it's fixed now. Worst part? Finding the 14mm x 95mm bolt to replace it with! There was a grand total of ONE on fleabay but hey one was all I needed..

That sounds like a lot of "fun". I've had similar things happen and I know it pretty much sucks. I've often thought that in a circumstance like that, for a bolt that isn't very tight, that JBwelding the parts together might allow them to be turned out. But of course you'd have to be careful not to epoxy the bolt to the hole its in.

[Bazoo]

Glad to hear it worked out. For us there was always a tap and die set at the house for general DIY repairs and thread chasing. Up at the farm the #10 string bean can held the “set” that complemented the ubiquitous can if screws and bolts. If a hole stripped out it just meant that it was time to go bigger or break out the braising rod. Nowadays that’s updated to include both a simple SAE and Metric set.

The shaft was likely shouldered to bottom out when it hit the ladle portion to act as a stop to tighten against.

Yes, the shaft was shouldered. I don't know how my repair will hold up being not shouldered but more like pipe threads. Time will tell. I am on the lookout for a spare now, since this one put me out of commission for so long. It wouldn't have, if i'd had a full tap and die set at my disposal, but currently I do not. That too is on my list of must acquire items.

[1hole]

[QUOTE=Bazoo;5543188]

But for the calipers I have, I bought a new set from RCBS. They are made in china, probably from the same factory that makes the harbor freight variety of calipers.

My personal experience with several sets/brands of calipers confirms your suspicion.

... I am paying for the warranty because calipers are more likely to get damaged and need replacement than for example, a loading tray.

When I bought my Harbor Freight digital and dial 6" calpers I compared prices. Fifteen years ago the (identical) RCBS calipers were 3 or 5 times more costly; that makes for an expensive warrantee.

Like I said, no seller can afford to market anything at a rational price and be expected to "fix it for free, forever" no matter what I do to it. (And, if anyone cares) my three old Chinese/low cost HF calipers are still as accurate and work as well as my precious Starrett.

Bottom line, we all choose everything we buy and pays the price as we see fit; I think that's good. I buy very few new RCBS tools because I don't believe they're worth what they cost.

[Bazoo]

Last I checked the Harbor freight calipers were about $20, and I gave $40 for the RCBS variety. I did have a HF caliper go bad on me some years back. The little indicator came loose and was flopping. I dropped them a time or two, but on a wood floor. So not so bad, but not good either. I've never dropped my RCBS calipers but I am very careful with them.

[GregLaROCHE]

You might be surprised at what Lyman will do for you. Let us know what they say.

[Bazoo]

You might be surprised at what Lyman will do for you. Let us know what they say.

They said the ladle had a 1 year warranty, and I was out of the warranty. I've had different experiences with there CS in the past, so it was worth a shot.

[beemer]

I bought a set of Harbor Freight dial calipers to replace a set of Lyman's that bit the concrete. I checked them against my Starrett calipers that I use for formal occasions. They agree completely and I will not be nearly as upset when I drop them. I bought mine for a little over $20 and now they are closer to $30, course everything else it too.

[1hole]

I bought a set of Harbor Freight ... for a little over $20 and now they are closer to $30, course everything else it too.

No precision machinist caliper at any price is concrete resistant!

I bought my four HF 6" calipers, digital and dial, on "sale" at some $10 and they all read the same, or very close to the same (less than a half thou), as my $200 professional grade Brown & Sharp dial caliper. The same concrete that would damage the B & S is likely to destroy the HF tools too but losing them wouldn't put tears in my eyes! The much higher priced Chinese RCBS/Lyman/Hornady/Midway 6" calipers I have seen over the last 15 years were mechanically identical to my HF tools. IMHO, none of the other brands are likely to replace any user dropped/damaged 2+ year old calipers for "free".

Bottom line, I believe our reloader grade calipers all work fine so we make our choice and pay our price!

[Bazoo]

I have confidence that RBCS would replace my calipers if they get damaged...thats why I paid more for them than the HF variety. The HF ones I had previously were not quite as good as the RCBS calipers I have currently, though of course those aren't as good as a name brand.

[Rapier]

I use to go to old farm sales, bought a long handle cast iron pour ladle for $2-3 back in the late 60s, been a great help in running the alloy pot and pouring muffin tins for the pour pot ingots. Some stuff is just made to last, cast iron is one thing that just lasts and lasts.

[1hole]

... The HF ones I had previously were not quite as good as the RCBS calipers I have currently, though of course those aren't as good as a name brand.

Just out of curiosity, I'll ask what better difference you found in your RCBS labeled Chinese caliper vs. the H.F. ?

[Bazoo]

They seem a little better finished, but it's been so long now that I can't remember the HF calipers in detail. Its possible that the only difference is in my mind as I don't have the HF calipers any longer to compare with the RCBS.

I remember that the little bumper on the back of the HF calipers bar, the opposite of the keeper that keeps the depth gauge part in its track was garbage on the HF. The screws stripped and fell out. No such problems yet with the RCBS. Also, the hand on the HF, it eventually started moving a little on the shaft, but I assume it was due to being dropped, albeit, on a linoleum covered wood floor. I've never dropped my RCBS calipers, thankfully.

[Recycled bullet]

I prefer the harbor freight mechanical dial indicator calipers more than the neiko digital calipers.

I chose the best feeling of the six harbor freight calipers. Two were broken, of the six I inspected.

[gwpercle]

Good on you for getting the old piece out! I just decided to R&R the rear seal in my Miller Big50 diesel welder, oil was freely pouring out. Pulled the pan off and it came down with a loud CLUNK! One of the rear main cap bolts had broken off in the block and the majority of the bolt came down when the pan came down.

I was all prepared for left handed drill bit and ez out, but the old bolt had a chunk of thread sticking up on one side and I was able to align this with the missing spot in the thread and turn the broken part out by hand. Got LUCKY I say!!

In hindsight, I think the oil was leaking from the seam between the main cap and the block, but it's fixed now. Worst part? Finding the 14mm x 95mm bolt to replace it with! There was a grand total of ONE on fleabay but hey one was all I needed..

Just ain't nothing better than ... Getting Lucky !
Gary