Cleaning bullets with phosphoric acid

[jsizemore]

I go straight from casting to coating to sizing in the same day. As soon as the bullets are cool to handle after casting, I break it into batches with no powder nitrile gloves. Less chance of moisture or oxide on the bullets if done as soon as cast. I handle the unbaked coated bullets with the nitrile gloves. Since the bullets are fresh cast and powder baked they are real easy to run through the sizer after they have cooled and the coating has hardened. They have aged hardened enough after 2 weeks to load and shoot. It takes me about 5 hours for the whole process to produce 900 120gr 9mm PC bullets. Hi-Tek adds about 2 hours since I do 2 coats.

[ioon44]

Does the 5 hours include casting?

[farmerjim]

I use cotton gloves ( like when handling artwork, coins, and old books ) when sorting out the good and bad boolits, and when I am casting two different boolits at the same time. I got mine from amazon.

[ioon44]

Thanks for responses guys. I just want to reiterate that I am using HiTek coating that was not bonding 100 percent. It would completely encapsulate the bullet but would scratch off a little. I ran a few through the barrel by hand and had some that the coat didn't work very well. I am handling the bullets by hand so I will just degrease them with iso or acetone to see if that makes a difference

If your coating is not bonding, then look at your drying process if the first coat is not completely dry then the coating will not bond.

My rule is to get the first coated bullets up to 120 deg F for 20 to 30 minutes with ever heat source you use.

[jsizemore]

Does the 5 hours include casting?

Yes. It takes up most of the 5 hours.

[Thomas918]

If your coating is not bonding, then look at your drying process if the first coat is not completely dry then the coating will not bond.

My rule is to get the first coated bullets up to 120 deg F for 20 to 30 minutes with ever heat source you use.

My first coat is dried in front of a space heater and fan combo for an hour in between coats

[Petander]

Hello everyone.

My big pre-mixed WW/Lino batch from decades ago has Niobium as a contaminant. Hi Tek won't bond as good as it should. It took me a while to find out, maybe Niobium came from the lino/mono. I got it analyzed and this was the only odd thing - there are traces of copper,too. Pretty high in tin and antimony.

When I soak my bullets in 30% muriatic acid overnight they become black. I rinse them clean in water and dry. Then Hi Tek bonds and shoots great. 2000 fps with 45-70 and 470 NE, for example.

PC does not need this process. But PC is paint, Hi Tek bonds with the alloy and contaminants can interfere. I use both.

Make sure your coating / drying process is right. Maybe drop a bullet in muriatic acid and see if anything happens? If it starts to bubble,there is something reacting with the acid.

Good luck!

[Thomas918]

Hello everyone.

My big pre-mixed WW/Lino batch from decades ago has Niobium as a contaminant. Hi Tek won't bond as good as it should. It took me a while to find out, maybe Niobium came from the lino/mono. I got it analyzed and this was the only odd thing - there are traces of copper,too. Pretty high in tin and antimony.

When I soak my bullets in 30% muriatic acid overnight they become black. I rinse them clean in water and dry. Then Hi Tek bonds and shoots great. 2000 fps with 45-70 and 470 NE, for example.

PC does not need this process. But PC is paint, Hi Tek bonds with the alloy and contaminants can interfere. I use both.

Make sure your coating / drying process is right. Maybe drop a bullet in muriatic acid and see if anything happens? If it starts to bubble,there is something reacting with the acid.

Good luck!

Thank you petander. I will drop some acid on it to find out if it's contaminated badly. Otherwise it could be from me handling them with my hands. I was diligent to let the first coat dry. I also coated a very thin coat to make sure it dried completely