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Thread: Grease

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    I bought the TroyBilt snowblower in 2009. Other than the worm gear, it never failed me, and it got some serious use. New ones cost around $800 for that basic model. So far, I got about $50 in it (gear and grease). I'm getting rid of the exterior rust on various parts, and priming and painting the metal. It better friggin' snow.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master


    Soundguy's Avatar
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    JD cornhead grease should work.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master



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    Soundguy is close with recommend of the JD cornhead grease. Cornhead grease is 0 grease, not 00.

    If the Truth destroys something, then It needed destroying,

    Ken
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
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  4. #24
    Boolit Master


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    It will likely be available if others aren't.

    I've rebuilt many a recirculating ball-nut steering gearbox with that stuff on antique tractors.

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy
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    Whatever grease you go with, stay with that. Otherwise check grease compatibility charts for what you use and what it will mix with. Modern greases have multiple components. Trying to mix two different greases can cause the lubricating component to drop out of the carrying component, and then you basically have no lubrication.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by Soundguy View Post
    It will likely be available if others aren't.

    I've rebuilt many a recirculating ball-nut steering gearbox with that stuff on antique tractors.
    Your application should be perfect for Cornhead grease. Here in the Northeast where OP and I live our winters are, lets just say, somewhat slightly cooler than N. Central Florida winter weather. I believe the OP has found his needed 00 grease but if nothing else was available then the flowable, 0 rated CH grease would defiantly be better than nothing. I do know that it works well in the snapper roll gear boxes it is spec for.
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
    Je suis Charlie
    Remember Lavoy!
    I'll cling to my God and my guns, and you can keep the "Change".

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Winger Ed. View Post
    Unless there is some magical property in the specified grease,
    I'd think any quality grease that has the same specs. and that can take the cold without getting hard would be fine.
    I neglected to put that in my post about synthetic grease. You are exactly right. Grease is just like oil. The colder it gets, the "harder" it gets. For things that run in cold climates like snowblowers and automobiles, it can be critical to have the right grease for the temp and avoid mixing grease types up, some are not compatible with others.
    I Am Descended From Men Who Would Not Be Ruled

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  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    I figured out, roughly, how much I've used this machine. In 13 years, probably an average of 5 times a year. So, 50 times total (approx). I paid $500 for it, which averages out to $10 each time I used it. That's why the engine is still peppy and strong. The rust on the metal is just surface rust. Heavy snow, ice, rocks, sticks, cats, etc bog it down, which is why the shear pins snap, and the worm gear strips.
    If I buy a new, beautiful, shiny machine I'll pay at least $800 plus (damn, they are nice). Even if the new machine lasts 13 years, I doubt I'll be using it. The "home" that my family will stick me in probably has young studs to do that kind of work.
    So, the fuzzy math that I'll present to Da Momma goes like this: I saved $1000 on a new machine, plus $400 or more on the repairs I'm doing now, which means that the M1 Garand I'm looking at is basically free.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check