Inline FabricationLoad DataRepackboxWideners
Titan ReloadingRotoMetals2MidSouth Shooters SupplyReloading Everything
Snyders Jerky Lee Precision
Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Help with butt stock removal

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    227

    Help with butt stock removal

    I am restoring a 16 Gauge Ithaca Side by side boxlock and cannot fully remove the butt stock from the action. I removed all the screws that fasten it and was able to slide the butt stock off about 3/8" and then it gets hung up on the safety. Any help much appreciated.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master


    stubshaft's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Southernmost State of the Union
    Posts
    5,892
    Did you remove the trigger plate? there is a screw under the top lever that holds it to the receiver.
    Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway!

    Men who don't understand women fall into two categories: bachelors and husbands!

  3. #3
    Moderator


    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Way up in the Cascades
    Posts
    8,211
    It doesn't have a long screw through the buttstock from under the buttplate, does it?

    DG

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master


    stubshaft's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Southernmost State of the Union
    Posts
    5,892
    I've never run across one that did.
    Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway!

    Men who don't understand women fall into two categories: bachelors and husbands!

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    5,274
    .

    Expanding on the above noted advice:

    * Move the lever to the right and you'll see a screw, normally hidden by the lever - Remove it.

    * Remove the two screws from the rear of the trigger guard.

    * Rotate the trigger guard 90 degrees counter clockwise. (like unscrewing it)

    * You will see a screw head near the triggers, which secures the trigger plate to the top tang - Remove it.

    * The butt stock should now slide off to the rear.

    When attempting removal, beware of whatever gunk may be sticking the wood to the metal, lest you break off a splinter from the inletting.

    .
    Last edited by pietro; 10-29-2022 at 11:37 AM.
    Now I lay me down to sleep
    A gun beside me is what I keep
    If I awake, and you're inside
    The coroner's van is your next ride

  6. #6
    Moderator
    Texas by God's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    14,467
    Pictures, please.
    I miss the 20 gauge Field Model Ithaca side by side that I had as a young bird hunting man. Dove, ducks and pheasant fell to that gun. Perfect balance and weight for me.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    353
    You have to remove the trigger plate from the bottom of the frame before the stock can come off of the frame.
    It doesn't matter if it's an NID or a Flues, a Lewis or whatever model original Ithaca.

    This is pretty much standard on any SxS,, AH Fox, Parker, Win21, German and English SxS's.

    Some you have to additionaly remove the sears before the stock and frame can be separated.
    The sears are under spring tension. So you 'dry fire' both barrels to relieve most of the sear spring tension. Then on some you can remove the sear spring(s) individually (Win21,,AH Fox).
    Some the sear springs will come out with the trigger plate (Ithaca models). Some the sear spring will stay in the frame and you just have to drive the sear pivot pin out while depressing the sear slightly to remove the sears.

    Bbl trip mechanisms vary, Most will drop out of the frame after the trigger plate is removed. Some freely. some with a little help. Some can get lost easily if you don't realize they are even there and they drop out,,or sometimes just their small coil spring drops away onto the Jesus floor never to be seen again.

    Thru Bolt guns with the stock bolt accessable under the butt plate like the Ithaca Lefever Nitro Special are easier as long as you have a screwdriver long enough and strong enough to do the job.
    Everything stays in the frame pretty much as you pull the stock off.
    The one thing to watch for is when using a screwdriver blade is that you get the blade in the slot before turning it and not along side the bolt head thinking it's in the slot. If the latter and you give the screwdriver a real good twist, you can break the side of the stock right out as the blade twists in the wood instead of the slot of the bolt head.
    It's happened to a lot of gunsmiths.

    Some modern thru-bolt guns use a hex bolt or allen socket instead of a slotted screw drive. Some are metric sizes out there too with all the imports..
    Last edited by 2152hq; 10-29-2022 at 10:51 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check