Lyman Alinement Pins Help

[tacofrank]

Hope to salavage an old Postell Mold. Can see light at thru the nose of the mold. With blocks removed from handle I can squeeze the blocks together and no light. One pin is slightly taller than the other. Any tips on pin adjustments would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in Advance.
TacoFrank

[HWooldridge]

You might be able to lay it down and tap the pin down slightly. They are generally pressed in place at the factory.

[BLAHUT]

You could take a Dremel and carefully grind down the high pin ? IF you can't get it tapped down low enough ? They are usually only pressed in ?

[country gent]

If you have a bench vise put the block in the vise with a piece of lead over the pin and slowly tighten it up checking often. this will press the pin in with more control than tapping. What ever you do use a soft punch or cushion to protect the pin from damage.
Before adjusting the pins check the mating holes for burrs or build up. Also check the mounting screws and handles for proper clearance

[georgerkahn]

I would first blacken the pins with a Sharpie and close-open-close-open (etc.) a few times. Then, using a bright light and a magnifier glass I'd note where the Sharpie colour is now worn off. I have had moulds where the problem was a pin being bent a smidgeon (technical term ), Seriously -- it only takes a few minutes to use the Sharpie first...
BEST!
geo

[BLAHUT]

I would first blacken the pins with a Sharpie and close-open-close-open (etc.) a few times. Then, using a bright light and a magnifier glass I'd note where the Sharpie colour is now worn off. I have had moulds where the problem was a pin being bent a smidgeon (technical term ), Seriously -- it only takes a few minutes to use the Sharpie first...
BEST!
geo

Imo, what A great idea. Thank You for some insight.

[georgerkahn]

Imo, what A great idea. Thank You for some insight.

Thanks for the good words ! It was late (for me) when I made the post, and perhaps should have added that *I* used ONLY brass to straighten the pins. I used a drill guide to find the #'d drill bit which was tight, and then drilled this sized hole in the end of a 1/4" round brass welding/brazing rod supported in a drill press vice -- plumb! Then simply tapping it on the pin showed the pin's cant, and but a few taps with a brass-punch hit by a hammer did the trick. (I, too, initially thought the problem was crud on the pins or them out too much...)
Best wishes!
geo

[Bazoo]

Your first post indicates the handles aren’t correct for the block size. I’d look their first. Having one pin protrude more than the other isn’t an issue as long as they both are engaging correctly. I adjust them by using a brass drift punch on the inside face, and a steel punch in the hole from the outside.

If the holes are worn, taking the pins out of the block halve they are in, and installing them in the other halve is an easy fix. If all else fails, you could send it to Erik Ohlen and have him drill the holes and install oversized pins. I had him do this to a mould and his work is excellent.

[JSnover]

I can't speak for all Lyman molds but the ones I have, the back end of the pin is flush with the back side of the block. If you're not sure which pin is out or how far it's out, check the backside with a magnifier or a depth mic.

[Bazoo]

If one hole is wallowed, that pin may need to be a bit more proud.

[uscra112]

What the OP describes sounds like a problem with the handles, not the pins.

[tacofrank]

I apologize for asking advise and not replying to any of the replies. I am getting over the Covid virus. Feeling better and on the mend. I should have said I could close the blocks with no light leeks in a vise. Unfortuntly I tapped the longer pin down with a hard punch and spread the head of the pin. I've masked the block with the pins in it and using a needle file have got it almost fixed. Not quite right. I'll work on it a little and see what happens.
I talked to Lyman and they will fix it for $35. I am cheap and will try a little more and hope I don't have to send it in. They described the problem as "Walking pins.
Thank you all for your replies and again apologize for my late reply to your replies.
TacoFrank

[Bazoo]

No worries.

The damaged pin, drive it out, from the outside towards the inside, and then chuck it in a drill and profile the end with sandpaper. Much easier than needle filing I’d think.

[Thin Man]

Several years ago I bought a Lyman mold 313226 (93 gr. RN for 32S&W Long). I mounted the blocks in a Lyman single cavity handle set and found the halves would not close up well until I had my friend Thor squeeze them closed. At the recommendation of another poster on this site I tried those blocks in several other Lyman single cavity handles and learned that all handles from the same source are not necessarily the same. When I found the handles that made the blocks align well I left this set alone as I have several other single cavity handles available to use.

[tacofrank]

Thank you all for your help it was the handles. I feel kind of silly for not figuring this out on my own.
I now casts a beautiful bullet again.
Thanks you all for your help.
TacoFrank

[Bazoo]

We all been there. Glad you got it sorted out. Congratulations!