Reloading Buy Checklist... how did I do

[Mint]

Hey there, this is my first post.

After much deliberation, I have decided to start reloading. I'm sure posts like these are made all the time so I'll get right to the point.

I shoot lever guns pretty much exclusively (1873, 1886, 1892, 1894).

NOTE: Just because they're lever guns doesn't mean I'm actually doing SASS or have to follow all those rules. There is only 1 cowboy shooting meetup by me every 2 months, so really I'm just range shooting at the 25-100 yards.

I plan to use mostly lead/cast boolits (not cast by myself). I presume the benefits would be cost, and less wear on barrels. Any other benefits are new to me. I don't ever have any desire to slug a bore, so hopefully that doesn't affect anything... I know very little about this topic.

I want to reload all the following calibers:

rifle: 45-70, 30-30
pistol: .357 mag, .44 mag, 45 LC

To start with though, and to learn, I will start with .357

As far as my goals:

1) it's mostly to shoot more (especially for the larger calibers like 45-70). Paying $3.50 per round is insane, and I'd love to shoot 45-70 for less than a dollar (when considering case can be reloaded 10+ times).

2) my second goal is so I can load down... either for the purpose of not wearing out my 1873's, or simply for comfort in shooting 100+ rounds. .357 must be loaded down for the 1873, and 30-30, 45-70, and .44 mag would all be loaded down for comfort.

3) Quantity over quality. Supreme accuracy is not really a concern, as I can only shoot on weekends, and don't shoot matches. Really I just want to churn out loads for cheap, ideally at factory ammo performance or better.

I shoot 200 rounds per week, but that's mostly trying to preserve ammo. I'd love to shoot 400 rounds per week.

Here is my buy list. I'm sure there are stupid mistakes in here, PLEASE let me know!

NOTE: I haven't fully read reloading manuals yet, I'm only buying the stuff first based on basic skimming/research. I will do a deep dive as it arrives and I work through it.

I tried to be comprehensive but I'm sure I missed something

* Dillon 550 + .357 caliber conversion kit https://www.dillonprecision.com/s000224
* RCBS dies .357 Cowboy - https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011720846?pid=428643
* RCBS die locking ring wrench - https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011504274?pid=221930
* UFO 550 LED Kit - https://kmssquared.com/products/ufo-...on-rl450-rl550
* 2x RCBS Universal Reloading Tray - https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1009923891?pid=857330
* RCBS M500 powder scale- https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1016279058?pid=232621
* Dillon digital caliper - https://www.dillonprecision.com/17171
* Dillon Primer flip tray - https://www.dillonprecision.com/13606
* Dillon small primer tubes - https://www.dillonprecision.com/20049
* Dillon case lube - https://www.dillonprecision.com/s000256
* Lyman case prep multi-tool https://www.midwayusa.com/product/101286290?pid=135615
* FA Pile Driver bullet puller - https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1022385082?pid=621674
* FA Wet tumbler - https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012721373?pid=713881
* FA Medium magnet - https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012716058?pid=375973
* Lyman dual sifter - https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1016993467?pid=949347
* Brass Juice - https://www.thereloadingstation.com/...uice-case-wash
* Case guage... would I need this? https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012784517

--- Misc other notes:

I would love to get some enhancements that I see talked about very often from here: https://uniquetek.com/dillon-enhance...by-press/rl550

But there are so many, that I quite literally have no idea where to begin. If there are 3-5 "must haves" I'd love to hear them!

Thanks!

[JimB..]

Mint, welcome from near Charlotte NC.

Before we get into details, do you have primers and powder? Without them, you’ll have a bunch of equipment gathering dust.

[Mint]

Mint, welcome from near Charlotte NC.

Before we get into details, do you have primers and powder? Without them, you’ll have a bunch of equipment gathering dust.

Ha ha... really great question. No, I don't. I was hoping on buying primers in the short term price gouged amounts (ie gunbroker), just while learning. I also wasn't aware powder was hard to get, but that's also good to know.

Then I planned to just keep checking sites daily longer term, unless you have a better idea.

[Winger Ed.]

Welcome.

I didn't see any on your list, but if you don't already have the Lyman cast reloading book-
I'd encourage you to get one. There's a lot more in it than just loading data.
We wouldn't want you to shoot your eye out kid.

[redriverhunter]

I second getting a reloading manual first and reading the reloading process a couple of times. I do not have a dillon or progressive press at this time, nor have I used one. It is my understanding that you might want to start with a cheap single stage untill you have an understanding of what going on. What I would do is pick a cartridge you want to load for and start on that one on a single stage. Some of the items you list can be done on the cheap like the brass juice. I have never used brass juice and may be better than what I use. https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...a-Test-Results There is alot of info on castboolits
this hobby is somewhat addicting and some times I have been known to spend more than save.

[15meter]

And I would start with a basic single stage press first. Learn the basic steps first then automate.

Perhaps look at the single stage conversion that is available for the Dillon 550.

I know a guy that jumped in and bought two 550's and a whole bunch of stuff after seeing my Dillon Square Deal B.
To the tune of several thousand dollars worth. His learning "curve" was stunningly ugly. Bad ammo, screwed up pistol and people afraid to shoot near him.

I helped him as much as I could, but when he was trying to learn all steps simultaneously, it just took way longer than if he had started with a single stage.

If you're shooting at a private club, see if there's an active reloader who's a member. If you could see his setup and how he does it, it will make things a whole lot easier. At my club(s), reloading is a weekly topic of discussion. Rifle, pistol and shotgun reloading depending on which club and which group I'm with.

Good luck.

[Mint]

I know a guy that jumped in and bought two 550's and a whole bunch of stuff after seeing my Dillon Square Deal B.
To the tune of several thousand dollars worth. His learning "curve" was stunningly ugly. Bad ammo, screwed up pistol and people afraid to shoot near him.

Hmm interesting. I suspected it would be more difficult than a single stage, but I didn't think it would be that much more difficult.

How long do you suspect I would load on a single stage press before I get a hang of this learning curve? I work with very technical subjects all day long (algorithms, etc), so I figured I would probably be OK with learning something complicated. I'm not intimidated by it. With that said, I'm also more of a digital person than hands on, so that will be new.

The main dilemma I currently had (and was meaning to ask) is the reloading manuals seem to be geared towards single stage. So unless the dillon instruction manual will teach me how to load then there is no real step by step instructions for the progressive in the same (very thorough) format as a reloading manual like the Lyman. I'd be "merging" info from single-stage Lyman instructions with Progressive operation instructions... seems kind of like a bad idea, unless there is another reloading manual.

That was really my only current source of some hesitation.

I also know someone at the range who uses a Dillon Square Deal B who said he could help me, but he currently doesn't have a 550 (He uses a Hornady LnL as well)

Also I forgot to mention but I bought the Lyman 51st edition already, that's why I forgot to put it on my list I haven't read it yet, only skimmed just to get some basic concepts down.

I also got the cast bullet book.

[Winger Ed.]

I'd encourage getting a basic single stage press also.

A progressive isn't more difficult as it is you're doing and watching 4-5 things pretty much at a time and it's
real easy to drop the ball so to speak when you're just starting out.

I've been hacking away at this since the early 80s and here's what works well for me:
I do all my handgun ammo on a LNL, but all rifle ammo still goes across a single stage.

For rifle ammo- I wash it, dry it, lube them, put it through a sizer and de-prime die.
Then wash them again, dry 'em, then tumble and start the loading process.
The way I do it, a progressive doesn't really lend itself to that.

Handgun ammo gets washed, dried, tumbled, and then it goes straight to the progressive.

[NC_JEFF]

Single stage press for sure, I've been at this for 30 years and keep 2 single presses mounted on my table. I also recommend an RCBS (or other) hand priming tool, I still prime off press and probably always will. I have 3 syles of brass cleaners, an ultrasonic, a wet tumbler and dry tumblers the dry tumblers are by far the simplest to work with and do a great job. Welcome to the addiction Mind, you'll certainly get plenty of help here.
Jeff

[redriverhunter]

How long do you suspect I would load on a single stage press before I get a hang of this learning curve? What you are doing on the single stage is learning the steps of operation. I deprime brass, clean brass (stainless steel pins) then prime with and hand primer, then charge each case (powder) depending on the cartridge bell the mouth, then seat the bullet then crimp.

the reloading manuals seem to be geared towards single stage. I can only assume in the beginning single stage is all that was available. The reason why I suggest a single stage is to learn what is going on at each stage of reloading. In my opinion it is not difficult to reload, but a mistake at best can cost you your firearm.

I don't ever have any desire to slug a bore, so hopefully that doesn't affect anything... I know very little about this topic. If you dont want to scrub lead out of your barrel I would only shoot powder coated bullets. I think the lyman manual does touch on bullet size.

[pworley1]

Read this before you go any further. Have fun https://marvinstuart.com/firearm/Man...-%20Reduce.pdf

[Kosh75287]

MAJOR agreement with getting a single-stage press & learning on it, first! It will, pretty quickly, become monotonous, laborious, and even "mind" numbing. But by the time you've reloaded what would be a week's worth of ammo for you, you'll have the basics of reloading pretty well in hand. If you have the space, consider setting up one of the progressives a little at a time, while you're doing most of your learning on the single stage press. Don't do both at the same time, but you can assemble the progressive at times during which you are NOT pulling the handle on the single-stage press (like on alternate days). As the purpose behind the various steps in single-stage reloading becomes all but unforgettable, this part of the learning curve will help "demystify" many aspects of the operation/assembly of the progressive press(es).

I think your decision to start with .357 Magnum & learning on it first is ALSO a good move. It is one of the more "forgiving" rounds to learn on, but will still enable you to see potential hazards and other "bad juju" coming your direction, in a way that you can detect and avoid them. Certain rifle & pistol rounds can throw the new reloader some serious curves with things that would never have occurred to them to take into account. One example cited in a Speer reloading manual is a change in cartridge overall length (c.o.a.l.) for 9mm and smaller cases with loads nearing maximum. I do not recall how much the round was shortened (by seating the projectile deeper), but it did not appear to be enough to worry about. Unfortunately, making the round just a bit shorter elevated chamber pressures from ~29,000 p.s.i. to just under or just over 60,000 p.s.i. There are other examples, but this one routinely haunts me.

If I could magically make any propellant appear in your reloading room, I'D probably send you a couple pounds of Alliant 2400. This propellant will give you very good/excellent top-end performance in all 3 revolver calibers, but can also be "loaded down" slightly, without getting erratic or terribly smokey. There is also considerable data available for its use with cast bullets in .45-70 and (somewhat less so) in .30-30.
The "medium-burning rate" pistol/shotgun propellants, like Alliant Unique, Herco, BE-86, or AA#5 will also prove very useful, as they tend to give you up to ~85% of maximum performance in magnum revolver rounds (and .45 Colt) with 25% to 40% better economy than 2400. I especially like Unique and Herco for large-capacity pistol/revolver rounds because it is very difficult to "double charge" a case with them, without being instantly aware of it. Unique and Herco are also extensively used for cast bullet loads in both your rifle cartridges, though in these MUCH larger cases, the concern about "double charges" must be kept in mind at all times.
Eventually, you will want a "true" rifle propellant for your rifle-caliber lever guns. Consult your reloading manual(s), and find 3 or 4 that are widely used in both calibers. When you go shopping, you won't find all of them available, but there's a fair chance you'll find 1 or 2 of them.
Based on the little reloading I'VE done for both calibers, I would expect that almost any rifle propellant with a burning rate slower than Reloder 7 or IMR/H4198, but faster than Reloder 15 or H4895 would work very well. If you could be assured that you will never need to exceed 1400 f/s in either of your rifle calibers, you would probably never have need of "true" rifle propellants. Unfortunately, shooting and reloading are two of those activities that are REALLY good at putting you in situations that you might never have imagined or even actively tried to avoid. Versatility of firearms, and components, is often a very good counter-measure for such events. One more thing...
For now, DO actively avoid buying/using the propellant sold as H110/Winchester 296 (same product, different names). While I'M not a fan of it, I will stipulate that it is an excellent propellant for maximum performance from magnum revolver rounds as well as the .30 U.S. Carbine round (for which it was formulated) and others. But it is best used by persons beyond the "beginner" stage of reloading skills and is absolutely the wrong propellant for building reduced-performance loads in ANY caliber.
I will likely fade a fair amount of "heat" for the above pronunciation (and have on other forums), but so be it. I don't want a beginning reloader to get stuck with a propellant that is ill suited to his goals and could give rise to trouble if pressed into service in the wrong role.
Okay, end of sermon...

[45_Colt]

Hmm interesting. I suspected it would be more difficult than a single stage, but I didn't think it would be that much more difficult.

It isn't. I never reloaded before, never watched the process, and started on the RL550B. Was making ammo in no time. And I mean making it, not needing to change dies and measuring each powder load on a scale.

How long do you suspect I would load on a single stage press before I get a hang of this learning curve?

In some ways it will be a waste of time. A lot of things are done differently on a SS versus a progressive. And you will be taking a lot more time to make a few rounds over the RL550.

I work with very technical subjects all day long (algorithms, etc), so I figured I would probably be OK with learning something complicated. I'm not intimidated by it. With that said, I'm also more of a digital person than hands on, so that will be new.

The main dilemma I currently had (and was meaning to ask) is the reloading manuals seem to be geared towards single stage. So unless the dillon instruction manual will teach me how to load then there is no real step by step instructions for the progressive in the same (very thorough) format as a reloading manual like the Lyman. I'd be "merging" info from single-stage

The latest Dillon manuals for their presses are good. Grab the RL550C manual (pdf file) from their site and go through it. They explain the entire loading process. Along with setting up the press.

You can start by setting up each station and running brass through. No primers and no powder. Can also put boolits on them and see if they cycle through the bang-bang devices.

Then set up the powder bar, and add primers. Make say 100 rounds and see how they shoot.

Do note that a SS press has its uses. Later I was gifted an RCBS JR3 and use it to load small volumes of .223 target/match/hunting ammo for the Contender. When I say small batches, I'm talking 5 - 10 cartridges at a time. Or more of various seating depths, powder volumes and so on.

In closing, some extra parts that are good to have, due to the multiple cartridges you intend to load. A tool head for each so once the dies are set up, no need to re-do it each time. Along with more of the small powder bars. Can adjust each for a different powder and load (and label them).

Then it is a quick swap, double check the powder volume drop, and crank out the ammo.

45_Colt

[45_Colt]

A quick note, regarding this in the list:

Dillon small primer tubes - https://www.dillonprecision.com/20049

Of the cartridges you listed only the .357 mag uses a small primer. The others all use a large primer.

45_Colt

[dverna]

I will "pile on" so to speak.

Start with a SS press. I doubt you will reload enough .45/70 and .30/30 to make it worthwhile to use a progressive and the SS press will not be wasted. FWIW, I used to have five metallic progressives on the benches and still loaded all my rifle calibers on a SS press.

I like the 550 and it is a great press, but it is not a good press to start with IMO. It lacks the auto advance feature, and for an inexperienced reloader, it is easy to forget to advance the machine and get a double charge. All the pistol rounds you are reloading will take a double charge of most powders. If you want to start with the 550, I suggest using Trail Boss powder as it fills the case more.

As to "stuff". Some powders are hard to get so do not get "married" to a powder. There are a lot of powders that will work...do your homework. Primers are no longer difficult to source if you are willing to pay for them. Lots of complaining about primers from all of us who used to pay $30/k but figure on about $100/k with a bit of shopping and patience. Still way cheaper than shooting factory.

Do a lot of reading and good luck!

[stubshaft]

I bought my RCBS Rockchucker in 1970 and still use it to this day. Before you ask, I also use a Dillon SDB and 550 too. For precision loading a single stage is the way to go, especially when working up ladder loads.

[Mint]

Read this before you go any further. Have fun https://marvinstuart.com/firearm/Man...-%20Reduce.pdf

Awesome I already got that book, it hasn't come yet.

[Mint]

MAJOR agreement with getting a single-stage press & learning on it...

Wow, this is beyond incredible information, seriously thank you! I have written a lot of notes down regarding what you said.

I don't want to go off on a tangent but I do have one minor question... when you list powders and loads like that, what is the normal mode of operation a typical reloader would go through to repeat that process as far as finding the load data?

For example, if I open Lyman book, I don't see Alliant 2400 in any of these, so how would I go about doing that?

Edit: A good example is the Trail Boss powder someone mentioned. I went to Trail Boss on site and don't see any reloading data for it, its just all blank https://hodgdon.com/trail-boss/

Also as a follow up question, that 9mm story is very eye opening. Of the calibers I listed are there any that would be problematic that I should save until last? I did briefly read that 30-30 doesn't have enough pressure to expand the case and all sorts of things with the primer depth was listed, I just stopped and decided to stay on track with basics.

[MrWolf]

I disagree with getting a single stage vs Dillon to start. I started with the Dillon 550b. You can go nice and slow and learn what is going on just fine. Agree with getting the Lymans and one or two other reloading manuals to check yourself and of course for the proper loads. Plenty of load information here and on MarlinOwners.com. I also love my Marlin levers but due to circumstances my reloading has been limited to mostly my semi's. Good luck.
Ron

[Mint]

I keep reading about a Go/No-Go gauge, but also a Case depth gauge like here: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012784517

Are one of those something a beginner should have?