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Thread: Remington model 700 receiver truing questions

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Hannibal's Avatar
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    Remington model 700 receiver truing questions

    So I gather from things I've read that the receiver bolt bore on model 700s isn't always straight nor are they necessary the same diameter all the way through. There is as much debate as to which is best but whatever method doesn't figure into my question I don't believe.
    Then the bolt is trued by whatever means the gunsmith deems best. Again, I don't think this figures into my question.
    So. After truing the action face, lugs and threads are all concentric and parallel/perpendicular to one another. And the bolt lugs and bolt face are parallel and perpendicular to the bolt body. Or at least that's the idea. Let's assume those conditions exist after truing.

    My question is, when the bolt is inserted in the receiver and closed what is the method to verify that the bolt face is parallel to the receiver face and thereby parallel/perpendicular to all the other trued surfaces? I've searched quite a bit and I'm not able to find any explanation so that's why I'm asking here. If anyone can enlighten me or point me to a reference of some kind I'd really appreciate it.

    Thanks for looking.

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    If both are properly set up in the lathe they will be as close to the same as you'll likely get.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Hannibal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RichardB View Post
    If both are properly set up in the lathe they will be as close to the same as you'll likely get.
    I know that's the theory behind the process but it bugs me a bit if it can't be verified. I presume there's a way to do so but I'm not certain how it's done with precision.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master



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    For a complete blueprinting the start point is determining the true centerline of the action. Using a mandrel is one of the more common methods.

    Some of the basics here.

    https://rifleshooter.com/2014/12/blu...nce%20accuracy.

    https://rifleshooter.com/2013/11/rem...0-bolt-truing/

    Some people are not comfortable with single pointing the threads so they use a chasing tool.

    https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com...s-the-process/

    Others leave the threads as they are turn a light interference mandrel to screw the receive onto to face the action.

    Some good discussions here https://www.snipershide.com/shooting...em-700.176081/

    This is currently the state-of-the-art process https://www.longriflesinc.com/produc...r-blueprinting
    Last edited by M-Tecs; 10-17-2022 at 09:39 PM.
    2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

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  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Some had a lapping fixture made up that they threaded into the receiver and lapped the bolt face lightly, the lapping pattern told the tale on the bolt face.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Hannibal's Avatar
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    I have at least a rudimentary idea of how the action and bolt are set up and trued. What I am thinking about is what measurement technique can be used to verify that the bolt face is in fact perpendicular to the action once all the truing has been completed. I just like to verify things whenever possible.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master Hannibal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    Some had a lapping fixture made up that they threaded into the receiver and lapped the bolt face lightly, the lapping pattern told the tale on the bolt face.
    Ah! Now there's a thought. Thank you.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by Hannibal View Post
    I have at least a rudimentary idea of how the action and bolt are set up and trued. What I am thinking about is what measurement technique can be used to verify that the bolt face is in fact perpendicular to the action once all the truing has been completed. I just like to verify things whenever possible.
    The real question is what is perpendicular on a standard 700? The back of the bolt down, centered or up? Trigger sear holds it up until its fired.
    2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

    "Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
    – Amber Veal

    "The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
    - Wayne Dyer

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I had a tool that was set up to lap the bolt face on Mauser 98s.
    It threaded into the receiver and then you lapped the bolt face by hand by just turning the spindle.
    I gave that tool away because ,
    Everything that was threaded on a lathe was So Close it just didn't seem like it was worth the time unless you are trying to build a 1,000 yard rifle.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Hannibal's Avatar
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    That's all true. I have a 98 Mauser. Bolt flops around all over the place but it shoots better than most factory rifles I've had.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    You could use some layout die and see if the contacts are even. Good way to check locking lugs and maybe bolt face.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by M-Tecs View Post
    The real question is what is perpendicular on a standard 700? The back of the bolt down, centered or up? Trigger sear holds it up until its fired.
    That IMHO is why many use some method to make the bolt fit the receiver more precisely.

    Adding bushings to the existing bolt was one way, using a new bolt that is larger in diameter is another way. Adding the bushings is not beyond the ability of the home shop machinist, making the split bushings was the most interesting part for me .

    Or you could explore the Savage bolt head idea where the bolt head is held on with a pin so that the bolt body cannot twist the bolt head around.

    Bill
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  13. #13
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    As long as the front face of the receiver is true, I would think a depth micrometer would be the easiest way. Just measure three or more points around the bolt face.

    I would not go out and buy a brand new Starrett for checking one rifle though. I'd probably check with my old set of dial calipers, if the distance doesn't read the same, then start spending more money.

    Robert

  14. #14
    Boolit Master Hannibal's Avatar
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    Lots of good ideas and suggestions. I think I like the lapping tool suggestion best. I'll make my own with a trued stub that way I can use it to check the action face and lugs for squareness to the threads when I dial it in on my lathe.

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
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    You can spend a lot of time and money truing a Remington, and when you're done, you still have a Remington. I'm not knocking them, unless you're doing it for yourself, it's not worth the money to pay to have it done.

    I look to fix 3 things if need be. First is true the action front face. A simple mandrel through the action, then check the face, and take as minimal amount off to have clean face. Second check and lap lugs. Third if you want to do a bit more, bush the rear of the bolt for a better fit. A step that has nothing to do with machining, I buy an aftermarket recoil lug that has been surface ground.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mk42gunner View Post
    As long as the front face of the receiver is true, I would think a depth micrometer would be the easiest way. Just measure three or more points around the bolt face.

    I would not go out and buy a brand new Starrett for checking one rifle though. I'd probably check with my old set of dial calipers, if the distance doesn't read the same, then start spending more money.

    Robert
    Both locking lugs need to bear too. I have a rem 700 Varmint special that was my dads, he bought it new when Remington first introduced the 22-250 cartridge. It shot factory ammo a lot better than brass that had been fired and reloaded. Lo and behold only one lug was bearing. I fixed that when I put a new barrel on it and then it shot reloads as good as federal premium .

    Bill
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  17. #17
    Boolit Bub Steelpounder's Avatar
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    you can have a bushing installed on the rear of the bolt just in front of the handle. it is dimensioned to the rear of the action for a snug but not tight slip fit. this wil position the bolt face very close to the same position every time.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master


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    Once the bolt raceway is opened up and squared to the locking lugs, an oversized aftermarket bolt is used with minimal clearance or the existing g bolt is machined and shims are installed on the front and rear of the bolt body to keep the lugs/bolt square with the re ever face.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master Rapier's Avatar
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    When all points are squared and trued, barrel out, you check by measuring the squared bolt face depth at the four points, top, bottom, left and right from the squared, receiver face, without the recoil lug. All four measurements should be the same, if you did your job correctly..
    “There is a remedy for all things, save death.“
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  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    probably absolutely irrelevant here
    I have a post 64 Winchester 70 (22-250)
    It has three action screws, tighten the middle screw any more than one finger and thumb on a screwdriver and that thing will not shoot worth a darn.
    Maybe if the action was bedded that would change - but I figure thats a complicated solution to a non existent problem, we free floated the barrel early days and if I dont forget what I am doing with that middle screw - I can put first cold barrel and the next two inside an inch at 100yards shooting out my Subaru ute window - cant hold any better than that even if the gun could do it.
    Anything (like that third screw) that induces tension can wreck accuracy even if its all true and squared up to begin with.

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check