H&G Mould Handle Screws - Need to be flush with the mould blocks

[FISH4BUGS]

I hope i can describe the issue well enough to get my point across....
My H&G Moulds seem to have the handle screws (the fasteners that hold the handles to the mould blocks) that when mounted, are not flush with the mould.
If it were a two cavity moulds it wouldn't be a problem.
However, since i cast in multiple manic sessions with 4-6-8 or 10 cavity H&G's, it DOES pose a problem. When you are casting 1000-1500 a session, one little bump in the production does hurt.
Here is why: I use a new RBCS Pro Melt with the mould guide and the handle screws stick up forcing me to lift the mould over the mould guide because the protruding screws prevent a smooth motion as I am pouring into the mould front to back (or vice versa).
If these screws were flush to the mould, the movement would be nice and smooth all the way down the mould - even the 8 & 10 cavity moulds.
I don't know what to look for for replacements or where I might even get them.
Can anyone give me the thread pitch and the proper nomenclature for these kinds of screws? I would even be happy with Allen head screws as long as they were flush with the mould.
Your advice is most welcomed

[Ford SD]

I think the original Screw was a Flat blade Screw with a reduced head

I have never owed a brand new H&G Mould

I have several Used H&G Mould

the last time i bought a used mould, I went to the hardware store and bought, allen head set screws 3/8 to 1/2 long and 1/8 roll pins 3/4 inch long

if the set screw stick out the bottom of the mould you can cut the roll pins shorter

the added advantage of the roll pins is that when changing handles you can put the roll pins in and wiggle the mould around and the pins drop down then install the set screws, also the threads on the bottom do not get messed up and make it difficult to remove

[metricmonkeywrench]

I just recently picked up a Pro Melt myself and have been looking at that mould guide myself, though i don't have many big moulds I've had somewhat the same thoughts.

My plan is to add a piece of loose fit straight copper or brass tube between the vertical guides to act as a roller rather than dragging across the solid bar.

Worst case you could pull the screws and grind/file off the tops to get the desired screw head height adjustment to be flush with the mould

[Texasflyboy]

Stand by. Answer forthcoming.

The short answer is to cut the screw heads off. Then using a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel carefully cut a flat head screwdriver slot in the bolt shank. Now the screw slot will be inside the blocks. Best for mold guide use. I’ll post a more detailed answer soon.

[super6]

You can go to Mccmaster and find set screws with allen head drivers. Take one of the existing screws to a good hardware store and they can measure the thread and pitch. If you go with mccmaster be aware they sell by the hundred! Oh and they sell low head cap screws also.

[Texasflyboy]

Can anyone give me the thread pitch and the proper nomenclature for these kinds of screws? I would even be happy with Allen head screws as long as they were flush with the mould. Your advice is most welcomed

The best way to do what you want is to lop off the screw heads and cut slots for a flat head screwdriver in top of the remaining bolt shank. I used to advocate replacing the OEM bolt with a two piece replacement. A short section of smooth nail followed by an Allen screw to hold the nail in. I no longer advise this because if the nail gets bent it’s nearly impossible to remove it and almost always requires a machinist to remove it. Modifying the OEM screw is the best overall solution.

[Mk42gunner]

Back when I had a H&G mold with protruding screws and was using it with a Promelt, I came up with a different solution.

Adjust the spacer collars on the mold guide bar so they are inside the protruding screwheads. It will work, just a bit of attention when sliding the mold in or out to fill.

Robert

[G W Wade]

I used a piece of 1 1/2 angle cut back to 1/2 in on one side to act as a guide. Attached a pipe on under side that pivots on existing round guide rod held in place by lock collers. Supported the rear of new guide to a bar between the 2 pot supports. A few years ago I saw someone who makes an aluminum guide plate with adjustable guides and a cover for the top to hold heat in. Plus had a hole to drop thermometer into lead. Do not remember who made it but if I could find on goggle search I am sure anyone can, GW

[FISH4BUGS]

The best way to do what you want is to lop off the screw heads and cut slots for a flat head screwdriver in top of the remaining bolt shank.

Thanks again for your knowledge and suggestion.
That may be a good trick because I can hardly boil water much less do this kind of mechanical stuff....but it seems simple enough.
I'll set it up for the next manic casting session.
Up next in the run is the 6 cavity #51 plain base.

[Texasflyboy]

Pm me your address. I’ll send you two screws modified. If they work send me your originals in Trade.

[dale2242]

Allen head screws of the proper threads and length are the answer.
Simple as that........