Lead haul #2 from favorite seller

[Rickf1985]

Some of you may remember I hit the jackpot back in January or February of this year with a haul of 1500 lbs. of all lead wheel weights and another 500 lbs. of assorted large ingots of lino and tin. Well, That same seller had a lot of stuff left over in the form of ingots and "Scrap" in trash cans and a bunch of lead pipe. I finally found time to go up there today and bout all the rest of the "Scrap" and all the lead pipe. Someone else had already snagged the ingots. I hope if they read this they already know those ingots were mostly wheel weights! So I came home today with 1250 lbs. of lead hoping most of it was dead soft since I already have a bit over a ton of wheel weights. Weeeellllll, No, I have probably 200 lbs. of linotype and another 100 lbs. of what I suspect is tin! I have a bunch of pictures I am going to have to resize to put on here but I am going to need some help with some of this stuff. I had mentioned before that this young man bought all this lead from the estate of an old reloader so it was all good stuff. But the young man did not know what he had so he didn't keep it in order when he picked it up. Some of it is marked obviously and other stuff seems to be coded. I am going to buy a Cabine tree tester and see what I have with that and then decide what to send to BNE. So give me a bit to get the pics ready to go and you will see what I got but meanwhile, what is Gardiner Hexbar? I have 30-40 lbs. of that in short sections.

[rancher1913]

i generally stay away from ingots at the scrap yard, lots of times the makers mixed to much foreign stuff in it. if you can get it checked its not a problem.

[Rickf1985]

This was NOT a scrap yard. This all came from the estate of a deceased reloader so I know it was all good stuff and I have not been proven wrong.
Here are the links to the first loads.
This is the first haul and the pics start at post #40, I added the second wheel weight run onto that thread.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...Linotype/page2
This was the second wheel weight run.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...63-Todays-haul

So no, this is not scrap lead from the yard. It is all quality lead.

[Soundguy]

Congrats ��

[Rickf1985]

As promised, here are some pics.
I suspect that these ingots could be pure tin. Note the S stamped in the end and the shine to them even sitting in a bucket full of dirty water, lead and crap.

Everything from where that little piece of solder is sitting sideways towards the right I suspect is pure tin.

Some of the markings I have found on the next three.





The foundry shaped bars all ring like a church bell when hit with a small hammer

All suspected tin

Another form of marking, 13oz. 50/50

These ring very clearly, can anyone tell me anything from the brand names?

Unfortunately this pic does not show all the sparkling crystals in the break. The next pic is the same type of ingot but a whole one with brand. Again, any ideas?





This is very soft, I am assuming since it was with the pipe that it is a joint seal of some type?

And a shot of the total take with the last two being the Gardinar Hexbar I am trying to figure out. I Googled it and came up with a bunch of weightlifting bars!

[Rickf1985]

And can anyone make any sense of these numbers? Seems to me the PB should be higher and what is the first one?

[BIGOX]

Cu copper. It's some kind of hard copper alloy. Maybe Babbitt Bearing alloy of some type

[Dusty Bannister]

I could not find that exact mix but it appears to be a tin based Babbitt alloy. By the time you dilute it the copper will be a very small factor in actual use. I was looking at the Belmont site.

[Rickf1985]

I did not take the last can of linotype he had since I am fully loaded with hard lead. If anyone is in the NE Pa. region and is interested in this stuff it is a really good price. You will need to go there to get it. And yes, there are spacers in with the lino but from what I could tell these were hard lead spacers. I believe this was all sorted lead by hardness at one time.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...9-2df2e06ff779

[Rickf1985]

This may be wishful thinking but I "think" these ingots may be tin and I would like to find a simple way of checking them short of XRF testing. I am thinking that since they were cast in Lyman ingot molds and I have that exact same mold, can't I drop a few in my mold until I find one that is a perfect fit for a filled mold and then fill that same cavity with pure lead and compare weights? The tin would be substantially lighter but is there a formula that tells me how much lighter? The ingot molds are one pound molds so if I find the spot in the mold that makes a one pound lead ingot and then either find one of the ingots that fits that profile or recast one to the same line then I should be able to find the difference mathematically.
Note the "S" stamped on the ends of the ingots. This guy used a lot of short codes for his stuff and this is very shiny and one ingot is like 13 oz.

[Soundguy]

tin should be harder than soft pure lead..but slightly softer than wheel weights... that help any?

[Rickf1985]

Yes and no, Pure lead is a BHN of 5 and tin is 7 so seeing the difference with my pick hammer test is not going to happen. . But I am going to be ordering a Cabine tree tester so I can go over a lot of this stuff before deciding what to send out for testing. I have separated most of the dead soft lead from another batch that is soft but not as soft, as the dead soft nor as hard as the wheel weights. The dead soft is getting melted down shortly to make space but the other stuff will wait for the tester. All those suspected tin strips that were poured into some sort of home made mold will be cast into Cast Boolits molds and marked as suspect tin and tested, again in the name of conserving space. All of the bigger ingots and chunks I am going to wait for the tester plus comments from members on here since that stuff all takes up little space when stacked up. I am getting way too old for this addiction!!!!!

[imashooter2]

I did not take the last can of linotype he had since I am fully loaded with hard lead. If anyone is in the NE Pa. region and is interested in this stuff it is a really good price. You will need to go there to get it. And yes, there are spacers in with the lino but from what I could tell these were hard lead spacers. I believe this was all sorted lead by hardness at one time.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...9-2df2e06ff779

That’s a shame. I drove right by there yesterday with money in my pocket and a buddy to help carry.

[Rickf1985]

If you drove by at around 10:00 I was there. 1 1/2 drive for me.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

This may be wishful thinking but I "think" these ingots may be tin and I would like to find a simple way of checking them short of XRF testing. I am thinking that since they were cast in Lyman ingot molds and I have that exact same mold, can't I drop a few in my mold until I find one that is a perfect fit for a filled mold and then fill that same cavity with pure lead and compare weights? The tin would be substantially lighter but is there a formula that tells me how much lighter? The ingot molds are one pound molds so if I find the spot in the mold that makes a one pound lead ingot and then either find one of the ingots that fits that profile or recast one to the same line then I should be able to find the difference mathematically.
Note the "S" stamped on the ends of the ingots. This guy used a lot of short codes for his stuff and this is very shiny and one ingot is like 13 oz.

Here's my simple checkout.
Do you have a good thermometer?
Melt temp for pure Tin is 449.5°F
after you melt it, pour it on a concrete floor, so it's about 1/4" thick or so.
Pure tin will "Cry" when bent.

[Springfield]

If it is marked "S" it is probably solder. Send an ingot and a sample to BNE and then you will know. Just got back 7 tests myself, I hate guessing.

[imashooter2]

If you drove by at around 10:00 I was there. 1 1/2 drive for me.

I shot a steel match over Harrisburg way. I drove by about 11:00 on the way in and 6:00 on the way out.

[Keyman]

Well I use S on all my soft lead bars.

[Rickf1985]

I had someone mention "Solder" which makes a lot of sense considering the huge amount of solder I also got with all of this.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

like my other advice, if you have a good thermometer, you can figure out closely enough the percentages of your solder.

https://www.kester.com/knowledge-bas...perature-chart