25-35 brass from 30-30

[Buckbrush]

I just purchased an old win94 in 25-35. Looking to form 30-30
Into 25-35. I have some Lee dies on the way. If I just run the 30-30
Brass thru the 25-35 die will I need a reamer for neck thickness?
Also would it be better to find a cheaper 7mm or 270 sizing die to run them through first? And what caliber should I get I tried a 270wsm die but the neck was to short before it forms the shoulder.
Any information would be welcomed

[Bad Ass Wallace]

That is the exact process that I use to feed my 25/25. FLS the case body in a 30/30 die, intermediate step down of the neck using a 270 Savage FLS (available from CH4D), anneal the shoulder and neck, then FLS in the 25/35 die.

I rarely loose a case in this process.

[Buckbrush]

Okay thanks. I'll give it a go.

[a danl]

I just purchased an old win94 in 25-35. Looking to form 30-30
Into 25-35. I have some Lee dies on the way. If I just run the 30-30
Brass thru the 25-35 die will I need a reamer for neck thickness?
Also would it be better to find a cheaper 7mm or 270 sizing die to run them through first? And what caliber should I get I tried a 270wsm die but the neck was to short before it forms the shoulder.
Any information would be welcomed

i have an old octagon savage 1895
in 25/35 and have made many rounds from 30/30. works well just don't overlube the cases or you'll get lube dents

[Mk42gunner]

If the .270 WSM die doesn't work for you, I would try to find an orphan .270 Winchester die (first choice) or just about any 7mm die.

You may have to cut off about ½" of the bottom of the die. Also keep in mind for your use a seater die will probably work as well as a sizer die.

Robert

[MarkP]

I make 219 Zippers from 30-30. I Use a 7 -30 Waters die first, then 25-35, then 219 Zipper die. May not need to ream your 25-35 necks. Just make sure they can expand and release the bullets when fired. Allow 0.002 to 0.003"for release.

[huntj3]

7-30 waters might be the best intermediate die for the application. 7mm-08 could also be found easy.

[wwmartin]

Midway lists a lee 7-30 waters sizing die for $18 That would be the quick way.

Bill

[screwcutter]

I start with a 7-30 trim die shortened to put the shoulder to the 25-35 length then into a 25-35 trim die.
7-30 dies only size a short portion of the neck and was of no use util I shortened it to place the shoulder.
I didn’t have much luck with Imperial wax.
Hope this helps.

[Buckbrush]

Thanks guys. Best place I know to get information .
I have a old 7mm mag seater die. I think I'll cut that down
And try that. If that doesn't work then I'll look at the 7-30
Die. Buffalo arms is selling 25-35 brass formed from 30-30
I picked up 50 of them.

[pworley1]

I form mine by running the 30 30 through a 25 53 form die before annealing. I seldom need to thin the necks.

[Outpost75]

I had the best luck reforming cases from either new or once-fired Winchester .30-30 brass. I used Imperial Sizing Die Wax, backing off a Lee .25-35 FL sizer using the die spacer which comes with RCBS .38/.357 dies for the first pass. This decaps and partially forms the neck and shoulder, without finishing the case taper.

After pre-forming, case necks are gas annealed. Then you can full-length resize to .25-35 in a second die pass without buckling the shoulder. Cases then must be trimmed to length. Lee can provide a custom case length trim gage to use with their .30-30 cutter and lock stud. You don't need to ream case neck. As long as brass is formed in two stages with an inter-draw anneal between you don't lose any.

If you try this with Remington or Federal brass doing so produces wrinkled shoulders on about half of the cases. While wrinkled shoulders will "work" once for field loads which you intend to “Pop and Toss,” they will develop pin holes at the wrinkle if you reload them repeatedly.

[Buckbrush]

Once again much appreciated every one's experience. Theirs always more
Than one way to skin a cat. Just like in machining no wrong
Way. But some ways are faster and some ways are better.
Thanks guys. I have a 7mm rem mag seater and the 25-35 dies should
Be here tomorrow so I'm gonna run with what I've
Have may not be the best but if it gets the job done is
It a really a stupid idea?

[Three44s]

An experienced forum member suggested in a PM that the FL die from this set to form the body of the case (the long taper) first and that it would stop the shoulder wrinkles that are prone to form using a 25-35 FL Die to create the long taper.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1021345083?pid=990422

I was forming 25-35 at that time and having trouble. I never bought a 32-40 die nor made any more converted cases, just bought bonafide brass after that. I have little doubt that the advice given is quite sound though.

Three44s

[Jedman]

I form 219 zipper cases from 30-30 brass but first I size it thru both seater and sizer dies of 25-35.
My 25-35 die set is RCBS and I know some brands the seating die doesn’t have the inside form of the case so it may not work with some brands of dies. I have been using only Federal FC 30-30 cases to form because I have many brands of 30-30 cases I just wanted to stick to one brand and they seem to form great no case losses and these are all at least once fired.
I start with the 25-35 seating die first and also use Imperial sizing wax on the case. After running it through the seater die I run it through the sizing die and they are formed well.
I have a Winchester M 94 in 25-35 and it has been probably 20 years since I last made cases from 30-30 for it so I don’t remember if I had to trim or neck turn the cases for that rifle but with my zipper I relube the 25-35’s and then run them through the 219 sizing die then trim to length. I don’t have to do anything else with the zipper cases to fit my rifle.
I haven’t had the zipper long enough to get a scope mounted on it yet so I haven’t fired it yet except a primed unloaded case. I may end up annealing the casings I have formed as that is a lot of moving brass around and they were all fired cases to begin with.

Jedman