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Thread: Where to start

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by longcruise View Post
    One thing about their manual is they used to say use hot �� VERY HOT �� water to clean. DON'T! It does clean ok but as it quickly air drys it causes flash rusting in the bore. Use tap warm. Use cold if the only thing handy is a creek or beaver pond.
    I have been following those instructions since I got mine in 1984. The bore looks pristine, but I also push an oiled patch thru it after it dries. Living in a state with low humidity and having the gun in a climate controlled safe may help too. Thanks for the heads up, maybe better reconsider my technique.
    Steve,

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  2. #42
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Minerat View Post
    I have been following those instructions since I got mine in 1984. The bore looks pristine, but I also push an oiled patch thru it after it dries. Living in a state with low humidity and having the gun in a climate controlled safe may help too. Thanks for the heads up, maybe better reconsider my technique.

    Next time you clean let the barrel sit until cooled and then run a dry patch. You have undoubtedly taken good care of it and have no problems but I always felt funny about seeing that red on a clean patch. ��

    Understand the dry climate, we live in the same county.

  3. #43
    Boolit Buddy
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    Isn't that why we oil the bore afterwards, to combat rust?

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jackrabbit1957 View Post
    Isn't that why we oil the bore afterwards, to combat rust?
    Yes, of course, my discussion of flash rust was more questioning why we would want to use a procedure that results in a coating of rust in the bore before the cleaning process is complete. Especially when tap warm or even cold water will clean just as effectively.

    I discovered that sealing off the nipple (or vent), filling the barrel with water and letting it sit for approximately a cup of coffee or a beer dissolves fouling very thoroughly and makes cleaning much easier.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatch-1 View Post
    If anyone says they have never dry balled a gun they are either very new to muzzle loading or a world class fibber.
    dry balling em is boring - double charge the powder much more exciting - done it twice long time ago - blokes accuse me now of bein ignorant around the loading bench - wont talk to em!

  6. #46
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    I watched a barrel double loaded to proof test it...that was interesting...

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by armoredman View Post
    I watched a barrel double loaded to proof test it...that was interesting...
    only double powder!!!!
    45 CVA with a range load ----45 grains x 2 = no sweat
    50 cal little skinny Belgian barrel - 13/16 tube - neat .50 ball - 50 grains FFFg x 2 = lets not do that again !

    Proof testing with overloads has never made sense to me (yeah we all got different ideas) why would shooting one for the rest of your life, thats been strained to the point of not quite breaking be a good idea ? Take a fair sample from the production and see what it takes to break then scrap it would be more sense to me.

  8. #48
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    I use a lee mold for there 50 cal bullets, hollo base, cast in pure lead, I only use blackhorn209 ( start with 30 grs by weight and work up, your gun will tell you what it likes ) in all my front loaders or cartage guns, mag primers, I make my own lube and it prevents leading and keeps everything soft so loading if not a problem for many shots, cleanup is easy with Hoppys #9, I put a Daesy air gun front and rear sight on, it makes it very accurate. 10 shots one ragged hole at 100 yds. It's a new learning experience, enjoy as you learn.

  9. #49
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by armoredman View Post
    I watched a barrel double loaded to proof test it...that was interesting...
    If you haven't already watched it, check out "Iraqveteran8888". He purposely overloads a couple old CVA's. One he actually loads with 80 Grn. of Titegroup.

    Here is the link if you are interested:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=en384qVqrug
    A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.

  10. #50
    Boolit Master brewer12345's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by indian joe View Post
    dry balling em is boring - double charge the powder much more exciting - done it twice long time ago - blokes accuse me now of bein ignorant around the loading bench - wont talk to em!
    Managed to dry ball once and had to resort to a grease gun. What a mess. Managed to double ball a 54 this summer. Rather tart recoil, but both balls hit the target a little high and 2 or 3 inches apart at 50 yards.
    When you care enough to send the very best, send an ounce of lead.

  11. #51
    Boolit Man
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    Well after mentioning earlier in this thread about dry Balling I was at the range a couple of days ago and thinking about other things when I had a cap go off and no follow up BOOM!!, set off another cap and same again. Then thought did I dry ball that? Yes I had. about 4 grains of powder in the nipple hole after removing the nipple and it shot out with a nice Pop!!. Easy fix.
    As for cleaning I have always cleaned with boiling water, never had flash rust and always finish cleaning while the rifle is still hot, including CRC sprayed swab down the barrel.

  12. #52
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    This isn't really hard and there are many opinions about how to do it and what products to use. I started out with the Lyman book.

    About the only thing I still do the same is cleaning the fouling with tap water. Works and is cheap. Remember that the 'approved' solvent for corrosive primers is water for basically the same reason, dissolve the salts remaining after firing.

    Oiling is just to prevent rust so just about anything made for that will work. I like ATF (actually ATF/Kerosene) since I also use it on my smokeless firearms (and it is cheap ).

    I am also one who weighs every charge. Yes, BP measures are marked by volume and that marking refers to the weight of the charge in grains. Substitutes are made such that they perform at that same VOLUME, not weight. When you weigh substitutes use the conversion table the mfg provides. I do this all the time. Not rocket science.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatch-1 View Post
    If anyone says they have never dry balled a gun they are either very new to muzzle loading or a world class fibber.
    I have never dry balled a rifle. I have however determined that breech loading the powder charge through the touch hole is too tedious to make regular use of.

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brimstone View Post
    I have never dry balled a rifle. I have however determined that breech loading the powder charge through the touch hole is too tedious to make regular use of.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  15. #55
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    I like lee molds with pure lead. Blackhorne209 powder with a mag primer or cap. In my rifles all very accurate when you find what the gun likes, bullet or powder ? Then when you find what gun likes you can measure powder by volume or weight, they will be different. 50 gr by weight will be a lot different than by volume. That for me is where the fun is, to see what the gun likes? Just clean very well after firing and oil. ATF works very good. ( auto transmission oil, I use ford type, has a cleaner built right in, in and outside of gun, don't need much ) A dry patch or two before the next first shot. A cap or primer to clear nipple, then load. Make sure bullet or ball is down tight on powder. Only pure lead.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check