I now have a Remington 510

[oldhenry]

I like the 500 series bolt guns. I have two 511s, 1 512P (gave my son-in-law a 512 3 months ago), a 521T that I sporterized & finally was able to find this 510 @ a decent price. It is no "cream puff", but it's all there. According to the bbl. stamp production date was 3/48. The stock is split on the left side, but no missing pieces. The metal is slightly past patina & headed toward rust: but the bore is good.

The stock can be repaired well enough for use, but appearance wise will not be perfect. I plan to restore it for a 1 yr. old great grandson. I'll shorten the damaged stock & I've ordered another stock from Gunville (www.gunville.com) that will be full size that he'll be able to use long after I'm gone. I may get up enough nerve to D&T for a receiver sight: I have one from Havlin Sales. The Mossberg bolt guns have the same receiver diameter as the Remington 500 series.

Here are some photos.

[Bigslug]

Another relic of my youth saved! You're a good man! Acraglas to the rescue!

Considering the grandson will probably have the functional eyeballs many of us no longer do, you might as well let him have the open sight experience. By the time he's able to properly appreciate peeps, he'll probably be moving beyond an auto-engage safety single shot.

[Texas by God]

I have one and I gave one to my grandson( when he comes of age).
No better .22 single shot- ever.

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk

[gc45]

I have a 512 my uncle gave me years ago. The 500 series are very good shooters. Rem used turned down match quality barrels to make them as they had many, many barrels left from poor sales before WWII. Mine will hold inside a dime at 40 yds with my grandson behind the trigger.

[schutzen-jager]

I have a 512 my uncle gave me years ago. The 500 series are very good shooters. Rem used turned down match quality barrels to make them as they had many, many barrels left from poor sales before WWII. Mine will hold inside a dime at 40 yds with my grandson behind the trigger.

been collecting + researching 510. 511, 512, 513, +521's for over 6 decades [ currently have 30 + rifles + factory repair manuals , catalogs , advertisements + etc. going back to 1939 ] + i never heard or read about them using left over match barrels - do you have any creditable factory published evidence of this ? - the only .22 match rifle pre WWII was the model 37 + it was manufactured from 1937 till 1954 so any pre war barrels would be utilized in post war production - also turning a model 37 battel to 500 contours would leave it 3" longer + with exposed tapped holes in surface from sight + scope mounting provisions

[Rich/WIS]

Many years ago picked up a somewhat Bubba'd 513T. One good thing he did right was drill and tap it for Weaver bases. Once I had it shortened the barrel, reshaped and shortened the wide forend to sporter shape and removed the odd angle on the butt and instlled a 1/2 in rifle pad to make up for lost wood. At the time the CMP was selling 513T barreled action minus the bolts and stocks. Got one to get the correct adjustable trigger group and installed it as well and added a Simmons rimfire scope. Will keep shots into about 1/2 in CTC at 25 yards. At normal ranges if I missed a squirel it was not the fault of the rifle.

Bonus was able to source a bolt and stock for the barreled receiver and build a another rifle I gifted to my best friends grandson.

[schutzen-jager]

modified a few also - DCM sold bolts for $10.00 , barreled receivers for $35.00 , stocks $5.00 , mags. $2.00 - still have extra spares left with the exception of a receiver -

[Murphy]

oldhenry,

Congrat's on finding a 510. I was unaware of them until a few years back. I'd bought a 514 but just didn't care for the odd safety on the back. Anyway, I bid it farewell in a trade and a few bucks for a 510. Best deal I've made when it comes to .22 RF's.

One of my friends shot it and was slightly shocked by the accuracy. He lucked into one a couple of months later, 1st year production, all original. He's got scopes on everything and it's the only .22 RF he owns that doesn't have one. That extra barrel length was just enough to help clear up the front sight so he can see it, we ain't pups no more. A friend of ours got the wants real bad for a 510 soon as he shot our friends. I sold it to him for what I had in it, watched GoingBroker for a month or so and scored a dandy. 1948 production if I recall. The photos were a bit rough on the auction, but when it got here some 0000 steel wool and a little elbow grease, followed up with a good stock cleaning and man o' man! Clean as a whistle and most of the case color hardening still on the bolt. The firing pin sticking out of the beehive on the back still had the red paint in great shape. I won't say how much I have it in, other than I stole that sucker!!!

Shot it for the 1st time this evening, it's all I expected it would be. It ain't going no where, and when it does, my 541-T and my Nylon 66 will be following it. In short, I won't needing no guns.


Murphy

[Gtek]

Hauled one home yesterday from a little shop across the state, AK4- MAR 63'. A little light dinging here and there, very small fixable crack behind bolt handle in mild figured walnut, and NO BOLT but mint bore! Blueing great below wood line but white and brown up top and only one tiny spot of light pitting with wrong butt plate and screws. But for three Jackson's out the door it left with me.

[schutzen-jager]

Hauled one home yesterday from a little shop across the state, AK4- MAR 63'. A little light dinging here and there, very small fixable crack behind bolt handle in mild figured walnut, and NO BOLT but mint bore! Blueing great below wood line but white and brown up top and only one tiny spot of light pitting with wrong butt plate and screws. But for three Jackson's out the door it left with me.

good find , probably have more than double your investment in parts , but the downside is that a bolt will cost more than original purchase price -511 , 512 , 513 , 521 , + nylon model bolts will work - if head space is off set back barrel + do not use bolt shims , they are real problems if you plan on using your 510 often -

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threa...n-bolt.586814/

[15meter]

Another relic of my youth saved! You're a good man! Acraglas to the rescue!

Before Acraglas you may want to try and lookup Titebond wood glues, specifically this:

http://www.titebond.com/product/glue...e-69ada5b855b0

This will help hide the glue line on walnut, and it's more than strong enough. I only wish they made a Titebond I in the dark, I think the original will accept finish a little more readily the II.

Put it on thin and when clamped wash off ALL squeeze out with a damp paper towel. Wash it repeated to make sure there isn't any glue left of the surface to interfere with the new finish.

Check on Dick Williams Gun Shop in Saginaw Michigan, I've had them re-blue several 22 rifles and have been more than pleased with their work. A Winchester finger groove Model 67 and a Model 74, plus a Remington 513.

Nice people to work with.

If you do try them make sure it is Dick Williams, not William's Gunsite. Different company, they do good work but I think Dick Williams does better.

[Gtek]

A little confused on the washer thing, the washer thing appears to me (I may be wrong) to remove rear body play with the added bonus of reduced firing pin travel to a constant.

[schutzen-jager]

A little confused on the washer thing, the washer thing appears to me (I may be wrong) to remove rear body play with the added bonus of reduced firing pin travel to a constant.

the shim moves the bolt body closer to chamber face + in turn decreases headspace - but like i said it is a jury rigged solution - i have spent agonizing hours removing stuck bolts locked in place due to cracked + split shims - setting back barrel is easier , faster , + more permanent cure for excess headspace - lots of info on this on RFC forum - on dozens of builds + bolt replacements i recall only 3 that required headspace correction -

[Gtek]

We will see when bolt gets here!

[oldhenry]

We will see when bolt gets here!

If you haven't located a bolt yet, try Out Back Gun Parts @ 812-945-0480.

I ended up repairing my stock with Gorilla Glue. It wicks down into the crack when the surrounding area is moistened (best if one side moistened). I like my 510 so much that I'm looking for another.

Good luck.
Henry

[oldhenry]

good find , probably have more than double your investment in parts , but the downside is that a bolt will cost more than original purchase price -511 , 512 , 513 , 521 , + nylon model bolts will work - if head space is off set back barrel + do not use bolt shims , they are real problems if you plan on using your 510 often -

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threa...n-bolt.586814/

For my own edification:
Since the barrels in this series is secured by 2 cross pins through bbl. end receiver, I assume that 1/2 of the setback is done to the bbl. & the other 1/2 is done to the receiver face. I would assume also that the amount of correction is arrived at by shims.

Please educate me on this point.

Thanks,
Henry

[schutzen-jager]

full total procedures can be found on RFC web site - basic procedure is to remove barreled action + drive out both retaining pins + remove barrel , insert go gauge in chamber + close bolt [ i have also used empty cases fired in rifle with no known head spacing problems if gauge not available ] - coat barrel shank with epoxy or loctite , insert barrel till it contacts bolt face , tap with rubber mallet + let adhesive cure - you now can redrill barrel shank lugs + reinstall lock pin after coating with adhesive - [ adhesive bond can be released with use of heat gun if barrel removal becomes necessary in future ] many people leave out pins + just use the adhesive which i have done once with no problems after years of use - this method can be done in less time than it takes to describe or disassemble bolt for shim installation + you will never have to spend hours + much frustrating aggravation to remove a bolt locked in place due to a broke or split shim -like i said there are many older threads some with pictures on the RFC site - never had to remove any material for too loose condition . but if i did i would remove it carefully from the receiver where it contacts barrel shoulder - the x models + nylons have no shoulder on barrel at all -

[schutzen-jager]

see posts in this link + see post #3 - numerous other info on older Remingtons on that site -

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threa.../#post-2016484

[Rapier]

The 510, 511, 512 and 513 have the barrels held in the action by a tight fit plus two pins that go through the action and half round notches in the barrel under rib . Makes for a very accurate 22 rifle with a barrel in good condition. They are capable of holding their own in competition against very high dollar custom guns.

[schutzen-jager]

currently have 30 plus in gun room + have examined + worked on over 100 others + very few had a tight fit in barrel stock channel which is why the designing engineer of the series [ Ray Crittendon ] put a pressure point at fore end tip to increase stability + ridgety when assembled -the two receiver pins only control forward + back movement + not up + down or side by side when very tightly fitted , which not all were -when i got my brand new 521 in 1956 [ 10th birthday present ] i noticed the up down play between barrel + receiver when it was removed from stock , shop returned it to Remington + was told condition was normal + did not affect anything when installed - i still have it + it is more accurate than any of my 513 matchmasters - some of mine have a tight connection between receiver but not all - this is why it is important to keep upward pressure on barrel at fore end tip + consistant tightening of action screw - the two pins made for lesser production costs then the more ridged threading of barrel to action -