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Thread: Is there a source of cap and ball revolver that work right out of the box perfectly?

  1. #61
    Boolit Master omgb's Avatar
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    To avoid the dreaded "cap in the action" lock up, I shoot my pistols as seen in some turn of the century films. For the first shot, I aim at my target, cock the gun and fire. Then I point the pistol straight up and thumb the hammer back. If a cap falls off, it always falls free of the gun. I then aim and shoot. This is not a new Italian problem but from what I have read, it was common during the cap and ball period. My "technique" is not new, just copied from William S Hart, Tom Mix and Yakama Canuk. That's my take on it. I'm not saying mine is the final word, just a solution I believe was period correct.
    R J Talley
    Teacher/James Madison Fellow

  2. #62
    Boolit Buddy
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    While it may not be period correct a cap post and action shield will cure that problem. Another issue is the short arbor on the Uberti replicas. The original design did not have a short arbor. If you want to stay period correct, don't do the cap post or action shield but at least fix the arbor.

  3. #63
    Boolit Master omgb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by garbear View Post
    Ruger Old Army
    If you are interested, Rugers will shoot conical just fine. They are not rated for smokeless regardless of their frames. Yes, they are stout and you would be hard pressed to break one but Ruger insists they are BP only. In fact, it’s stamped on the barrel. I have one in blue and one in stainless. Both have adjustable sights. Both have excellent triggers. Both are bigger than a Remington but smaller than a Walker. Both are .45 caliber, not 44. A used one will set you back about $700-$800. None will need any tuning to work perfectly. That’s my experience. Others may differ, but I’ll bet most will agree. Now, the down side is they are not replicas. They are Rugers. So, if authenticity is your bag, Ruger is not for you.
    R J Talley
    Teacher/James Madison Fellow

  4. #64
    Boolit Mold
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    Things must have changed a lot since the 70's. Now unless it is a Uberti or Pietta it is worthless and they need timed, arbors fixed, etc, etc.
    If you are trying to shoot bullseye, maybe so. The .36 1851 brass frame from probably Dixie has never jammed a cap . I don't have a timing problem and the only trouble was that it shot best at around 27 grains. With the brass frame I eventually had to tighten it up. And it shot even better. The third time I tightened it was not so good, about like originally. I don't sit out there on weekends hammering away, it's a tool for hunting, squirrel, rabbit,woodchuck, and finishing off a deer.
    If some body had a steel frame that would eliminate the puny problem I had. The squirrel was at the top of a big maple and it did take 5 shots. I took a black bird about the same , the second shot I remembered to hold a foot low.
    My wife's was a steel frame 1851 from Spesco. She shot better than me and never had a cap blockage. This was before the internet. I get the impression a lot of people with slim or no experience believe everything they read and overthink it. Just get something you can afford and enjoy it.
    As an aside, I don't use drop tubes on my 45 -70 or 43 span and have killed a couple deer. And I doubt the buffalo hunters carried apothecary scales as some have suggested is critical.
    John








    the second shot after I remembered to hold a foot low


    .
    .

  5. #65
    Boolit Buddy


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    Don't buy the brass frame guns, they develop problems when used.

    It is also a good idea to have a smith do an action job. The Cowboy Shooters over at "The Wire" can recommend gunsmiths that work on single action revolvers.

  6. #66
    Boolit Master omgb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by garbear View Post
    Ruger Old Army
    I’m a pretty close reader so I won’t waste your time recommending smiths😁 Ruger is always good and you will pay for it too. Barring that, my go to is Pedersoli. They make excellent guns. Next would be Pieta. Their QC is not equal to either of the afore mentioned but, if you can see and handle the pistol before buying it, you should be able to find a good one.
    R J Talley
    Teacher/James Madison Fellow

  7. #67
    Boolit Buddy
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    Or you could just contact a tuner/ revolver smith and have it tuned and properly set up. It's not that all that expensive and you get a pistol that will last a lifetime and shoot accurately.

  8. #68
    Boolit Mold
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    Out of curiosity, what are "cowboy action" shooters all about? Did Hickok have some.body fine tune his 36's ? I doubt it and have not read otherwise. This whole business reminds of when I hitched
    for a pony puller. Top place was 7 dollars. It got to be that winning was more important than the 7 dollars. That led to the end of pony pulling. Now it is all horse pulling with the same abuse.












    Z

  9. #69
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by 577450 View Post
    Things must have changed a lot since the 70's. Now unless it is a Uberti or Pietta it is worthless and they need timed, arbors fixed, etc, etc.
    If you are trying to shoot bullseye, maybe so. The .36 1851 brass frame from probably Dixie has never jammed a cap . I don't have a timing problem and the only trouble was that it shot best at around 27 grains. With the brass frame I eventually had to tighten it up. And it shot even better. The third time I tightened it was not so good, about like originally. I don't sit out there on weekends hammering away, it's a tool for hunting, squirrel, rabbit,woodchuck, and finishing off a deer.
    If some body had a steel frame that would eliminate the puny problem I had. The squirrel was at the top of a big maple and it did take 5 shots. I took a black bird about the same , the second shot I remembered to hold a foot low.
    My wife's was a steel frame 1851 from Spesco. She shot better than me and never had a cap blockage. This was before the internet. I get the impression a lot of people with slim or no experience believe everything they read and overthink it. Just get something you can afford and enjoy it.
    As an aside, I don't use drop tubes on my 45 -70 or 43 span and have killed a couple deer. And I doubt the buffalo hunters carried apothecary scales as some have suggested is critical.
    John

    Scales/drop tubes are found used by most folks found in the winners circle or humongous gut piles , yup you can kill deer your way and a blind squirrel finds nuts too!/Ed






    the second shot after I remembered to hold a foot low


    .
    .
    Buffalos are big even @800 yds ,scales and drop tubes users are usually found in the winners circle

  10. #70
    Boolit Buddy

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    Don't buy an 1860 Colt Army. They are good lookin and shoot quite well. But I have poured many rounds through an 1860 Army. Actually shot one so much the cylinder pin loosened and eventually pulled out of the frame. Went and TIG welded the threads up and tapped the frame threads out to a slightly larger SAE fine thread. Was able to chase a new thread on the cylinder pin and case carburize it. Threaded it in with red Locktite. That was quite a few years ago! Gave it to a friend that still shoots it. However if you plan to do some serious shooting and don't need the grief of replacing cylinder wedges as they get beat up; buy a Remington!!!!! The 44 cal Remingtons are low maintenance! No beating the cylinder wedge in and out to remove the cylinder. Just pull the pin on the Remington. Buy a Remington!!!

  11. #71
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edward View Post
    Buffalos are big even @800 yds ,scales and drop tubes users are usually found in the winners circle
    yeh its what you do to screw the last bit out of a good gun
    loading rough I can shoot 2.5 to 3" group at 100yards - plenty good enough for buffalo at 200 - I am capable of a little better than that
    same gun and combo loaded properly on a good day I might sneak it under 2" @ 100 - the gun and load might be capable of better - me? not so much

  12. #72
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rockindaddy View Post
    Don't buy an 1860 Colt Army. They are good lookin and shoot quite well. But I have poured many rounds through an 1860 Army. Actually shot one so much the cylinder pin loosened and eventually pulled out of the frame. Went and TIG welded the threads up and tapped the frame threads out to a slightly larger SAE fine thread. Was able to chase a new thread on the cylinder pin and case carburize it. Threaded it in with red Locktite. That was quite a few years ago! Gave it to a friend that still shoots it. However if you plan to do some serious shooting and don't need the grief of replacing cylinder wedges as they get beat up; buy a Remington!!!!! The 44 cal Remingtons are low maintenance! No beating the cylinder wedge in and out to remove the cylinder. Just pull the pin on the Remington. Buy a Remington!!!
    some parts of a remington are a better design - if they were a better gun to handle and shoot - how come colt outsold them ?

  13. #73
    Boolit Master
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    Colt had government contracts. He was a better businessman. I have plenty of both and I agree the Remington's work better and are stronger. The repros both have weak hand springs and trigger bolt springs. Whatever you get replace the nipples and buy a wolf T/B spring.

  14. #74
    Boolit Master
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    If only the Remy grip was as comfortable as the Colt. It is flared 'wrong' and narrow in the wrong place.

    I liked mine even with the bad grip. Liked it even better after I shortened the barrel (5" IIRC) and turned the grip into a bird's head shape. A gunsmith friend made me a good trade for it. He used it in SASS. His full size in a hip holster and the short one in a crossdraw holster. They made a nice looking pair.

  15. #75
    Boolit Master
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    Ah, once again, the old Colt vs Remington argument. Colts shoot loose, Remington arbors don't have a grease groove...bla bla bla.
    I never had to beat the wedge in any Colts.
    I'll take a Colt any day of the week, except Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, when I'll take a Remington.
    I have Colts and Remingtons made in the 1860s that are still going strong, still right and tight.
    Never say never...
    Last edited by Battis; 03-02-2023 at 12:50 AM.

  16. #76
    Boolit Master
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    then lets put a colt grip and trigger guard on a remington action - cure both sets of "problems" at the one time

  17. #77
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Super Sneaky Steve View Post
    Colt had government contracts. He was a better businessman. I have plenty of both and I agree the Remington's work better and are stronger. The repros both have weak hand springs and trigger bolt springs. Whatever you get replace the nipples and buy a wolf T/B spring.
    more to it I reckon --the colt just feels better when you pick it up, points easier, looks nicer, and the trigger guard dont bust yer knuckle when ya fire it. The cap jam problem I bet was much less in olden days - the vintage caps I have seen were much stouter build than we get today .

  18. #78
    Boolit Master
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    Here's the revolver I want - MERSHON AND HOLLINGSWORTH SELF-COCKING REVOLVER.
    https://www.guns.com/news/2013/04/25...cking-revolver
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Merchon revolver.jpg  

  19. #79
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Battis View Post
    Here's the revolver I want - MERSHON AND HOLLINGSWORTH SELF-COCKING REVOLVER.
    https://www.guns.com/news/2013/04/25...cking-revolver
    brilliant solution to an imaginary problem!!

  20. #80
    Boolit Buddy Swineherd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by indian joe View Post
    brilliant solution to an imaginary problem!!
    ???
    Are double action pistols a brilliant solution to an imaginary problem too?

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BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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