Not busting on ASM/CVA, I have a few and were found to be on both ends of spectrum. I will admit I am really, really picky and every one I own (all makers) needed something, that's part of the fun for me. Figure out what's WRONG with them and figure out fix it up then have to go shoot them, being good or bad for some reason this makes me happy!
Well, after Bill showed us how it can be done, the Open-tops and Remington's can be made about as "bullet proof" as the ROA (it's not 100% either)!!Originally Posted by indian joe
So, it's still "wide open"!!!
Mike
I dont know the full history of these factories - all our repro guns are old (1970's to early 1990) but for sure the two ASM's we've had are big heaps different (barrels) than the CVA / Euroarms in addition that CVA Walker has way different rifling (shape/form/depth) than the 10 or so CVA rifles I have had .
Do I understand right that CVA (and Euroarms) was/were marketing distribution companies based in the US and that Dikar was the factory (Spanish) making them (CVA anyways) - about half the CVA's I refer to were actually branded Dikar .......(Dikar / CVA = Spain) .....(Euroarms = Italian ?)
Big fish eat the little fish along the way ---who got gobbled up by Aldo who then saved his backside by doing a deal with Beretta? - how many mom and Pop shops survived as parts suppliers to the bigger ones?
never owned a ROA - they were a heckof a price when I started - liked the look (and feel) of colts better - dont mind tinkering on em (half the fun as I got older)
OK. This thread is very educational and perfect timing! I would really like some advice on how to deal with the following situation.
Just bought my first Uberti. It is a Colt 1862 Police. Beautiful fit & finish, but with some big mechanical issues. So I have not attempted to shoot it yet for the following reasons:
At first glance the cylinder and barrel are vertically at a shallow angle to one another. The cylinder gap is narrower at the bottom of the barrel throat face than at the top. Because of this, the barrel looks like it is drooping slightly. Any ball leaving cylinder would have to alter direction slightly entering the throat.
Upon disassembly, the arbor looks bent in the middle. The bend is vertically upwards. I expect the top of the bend will prematurely start to wear, and/or so will the center of the cylinder making the problems below even worse.
Uncocked, the cylinder has a crazy amount of endshake, as well as rotary play. This endshake and play is somewhat diminished when cocked. The hand and stop engagement diminishes the play somewhat.
Timing and lockup is sketchy. Fast full cocking works, but slow or short cocking and something jams.
I own 7 other repros, bought new and used, but none have remotely the amount of issues as this pistola. I do not want to shoot it until someone who knows what they are doing has gone thru it. I don't want to risk making a bad situation worse.
The mail order dealer does not accept returns. So should I contact Uberti first, or do I contact one of the fine gentlemen who have posted in this thread?
Thanks, Andy
If the pistol is Brand New , then I would contact Uberti.
There has to be some kind of warranty.
If not , there are several members on this forum that you can contact for info or repair on that pistol like Jackrabbit
Uberti first, if the dealer is being a pain, (who is it so we don't waste our money there?), then Jackrabbit.
Thanks for the mention guys! I just got finished on an 1862 pocket just as described. This one was new with only one cylinder full fired. It had multiple issues such as no carry up on 3 of the 5 chambers, and lots of endshake. I won't bore you with the details but it was a challenge to get this one to function. It sounds like a lot of the problem is the arbor isn't bedding into the barrel lug and that is the root of a lot of issues. Uberti has never acknowledged the short arbor problem, they think the wdege is how you adjust the barrel to cylinder gap which is 100% wrong. The wedge needs to be firmly seated to securely lock both parts together with a short arbor driving the wedge in like it's supposed to be, locks the cylinder. Once the arbor is corrected you have the same gun each time it's reassembled. Feel free to private message me for details on tuning and fixing the issues on your pistol. I have a feeling that Uberti might not want to do it the way it needs to be done.
60 years of experience, Second Gen Colts the worst and Uberti the best with Pietta next and ASM dead last. All will need a little tuning and sight work and good nipples will help immensely, either slix or treso. There were hand made Remingtons and the Rogers and Spenser that worked out of the box but the cost was double the others.
I keep reading horror stories about ASM - the two I've had have been the equal of anything out there - old history though - all the repros we own were made last century - some over 40 years old - I think all these companies (maybe excepting Uberti) took their turn making junk along the way and also suggest the survival of Uberti and Pietta proly had more to do with business and financial acumen than superior gunmaking ability.
Havent we had some fun though? if you took the European repros out of my safe it would leave a pretty darn boring lot -- what would I do? I have zero interest in military stuff and dont have enough money to shoot collectible cowboy guns. ..............
ASM did go through a period where quality wasn't as good as it should have been. I have about half a dozen with only one being questionable quality. The worst ones to come across my bench were Armi San Paolo. At least I think they were ASPs. They had no manufacturing marks. Internal parts were rough and thick, klunky things that needed a lot of work. Arbors were way short, just did one that required a 3/8 ths spacer to properly bed it in the barrel recess. I'll take an ASM on its worst day over the ASPs hands down. ASMs are much closer to the original Colts as well with internal parts being interchangeable.
I'm a little late to the party.
But, I have owned more than 6 Pietta's and all have functioned 100% out of the box.
Only one needed the front sight regulated and it was just a tad off.
I have never needed to replace or repair a single part.
All would shoot under 2.5" at 25yds. with RB or 45 Colt Conversions.
Also have used Conversion Cylinders in them and all were a straight drop in.
Failure is not an Option
I've had 2 Piettas come across the bench lately that the wedge slot in the arbor was too narrow, the wedge was not pulling the 2 parts together and accuracy was dismal. I pass this along so folks can check and be sure things are working as advertised. Both the barrel and wedge slots need about an eighth inch clearance free around the wedge, the idea being to have the wedge not binding in either slot. If it does the pistol is not being held together as a solid piece.
I will recommend without hesitation the following "cap & ball" revolvers:
-Feinwerkbau History #2. A match grade version of the Rogers & Spencer
-Hege Army Match Maximum. A match grade version of the Remington .44
-Pedersoli Remington 1858. Very much like the Hege.
These are all superbly accurate and reliable. Metallurgy is top notch. ie: the springs are reliable and lockwork parts are properly hardened.
All three of these are approved for MLAIC and NS-SA competition.
Unfortunately, only one, the Pedersoli, is currently being made.
Here's a professional review:
https://youtu.be/M3cHmmjct8U
had a couple remys over the years - knuckle busters - I'd rather shoot a colt - will shoot it better simply because I like the feel of it better
Depends on how your mitt fits the grip I guess.
Never handled a rogers and spencer - like the looks of em tho.
Longhunter will give you what you’re looking for. Jackrabbit does fine work too…
Hey Dave!
I've been pretty happy with Gtek's work, sometimes he does take them back apart for another tweak or two. But I will say he uses the correct screwdrivers and no shipping charges!
I have four cap and ball revolvers. Two are Remington models. One came from Navy Arms in the mid 1970s, the other was from Dixie and carried their markings. It's unpolished as was a less expensive version. These two always work and have worked each and every time. No issues. The two Rugers are also well made, accurate and work perfectly. I did bend the loading ram on the stainless model while trying to force a conical over a heavy charge. Other than that, they are great. Oh, IIRC, they came with nipples that took #10 caps. I swapped them almost immediately for nipples using #11 caps.
R J Talley
Teacher/James Madison Fellow
Ruger's did alas no more
^^^^so true^^^^
Cognitive Dissident
Posting Permissions
| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
Reply With Quote