Perhaps another thing to consider...... An inexpensive flintlock may not perform consistently. Nothing in the world is a bigger turn off than an appliance will not do the job for which it was purchased.
Perhaps another thing to consider...... An inexpensive flintlock may not perform consistently. Nothing in the world is a bigger turn off than an appliance will not do the job for which it was purchased.
“Let us endeavor so to live that when we come to die even the undertaker will be sorry.”
― Mark Twain
W8SOB
Amen brother!, buy what you can afford but don't go cheap.... as in Traditions. I had 2 Traditions flinters come across my bench a while back, both with locks that wouldn't spark, they would shatter flints beautifully. I tried a number of things to get them working, did get one to work but the other was a loss. The lock issue was just part of the cheesy feeling from these guns.
You need a quality hand fitted flintlock to get reliable, fast ignition.
Factory locks are never going to be close in performance to a hand fitted, hand polished lock. You will likely be discouraged from flintlock ignition system with a factory lock.
Look up L&R locks, they make some that will drop into the T/C Arms Company Hawken rifle stocks. Also consider getting a suitable barrel from Rice Muzzle Loading Barrel Company that will drop into the T/C Hawken stock.
https://lr-rpl.com/
https://www.ricebarrels.com/
Check the pawnshops for used T/C Hawken rifles, they usually don't clean nor lubricate the rifle barrels and there can be alot of corrosion, show that ruined bore to the shop manager and give them a low bid for the stock.
Last edited by Sixgun Symphony; 09-27-2022 at 12:05 AM. Reason: added information
If you want to find out wether or not you'll enjoy it, I would recomend a Pedersoli. A really cheap flintlock is not going to be enjoyable for anyone.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
Prices on things have gone considerably but a good lock should only be around 200.00 to 250.00. Even the Rifle Shoppe parts sets are not all that expensive. Re Davis and L& R locks are averaging around 200.00. Check out Track of the Wolf on their selections. I personally would stay away from Traditions as they are very low end.
Piecing together a rifle will be more expensive that just buying a reasonable priced Kit.
And things like stocks will take more work to get working than most Kit stocks.
The barrels on TOW also will take a little gunsmithing.
I very rarely find used Flinters at pawn shops.
But If I do , they usually are not in the greatest shape.
But for me , that isn't an issue , since I do the rebuilding myself.
And for those , I do get parts that I can't fix from TOW like locks.
If the barrels are bad , they go to Hoyt.
When finished and in Great Condition , the build is usually cheaper than buying a brand new finished rifle and sometimes a similar kit.
Last edited by LAGS; 09-29-2022 at 09:56 PM.
My first flinter was a CVA Pennsylvania rifle bought as a percussion and I converted to flint - used a CVA (Dikar) lock - by that time I had learnt enough to pull the nipple drum out and fit a proper coned touch hole liner. I shot well with that gun and like a fool traded it off thinking I would get something better - yup gave away the best barrel I ever had my hands on. The lock was reliable and drew a lot of comments as how well it went off (fast ignition) - only problem was it ate flints - 15 shots without a miss most times but then tinkering with it might get 25 before a change. I built a flintlock for a friend using cheap parts and inherited it back when he passed so am still shooting a Dikar lock - still eating flints - I like this gun too as I built it for a mate and cut the stock to fit me - its a little cheap Belgian 48 twist barrel in 45 cal quite accurate inside 75 yards and I've managed to put a bit of bling on the mantelpiece with it . Need to get off my backside and harden the frizzen (flints are six bucks a piece now).
I reckon shooting a flintlock is something to kind of grow into - for sure they will kick your butt if there is any hint of a flinch or poor trigger control
The TOW parts sets are relatively easy to build, some more so than others. They can be a challenge in areas like the butt plate when they are curved. One needs to choose wisely and not dive off into something that's way over one's head, like a Hawken rifle for example. Going with a trade gun may be one option. If your gonna go the build it yourself route I highly recommend " The Gunsmith of Grenville County" for a lot of excellent information on building a rifle. It may be spendy but it's well worth the cost.
About the easiest kit to build is a Kibler https://kiblerslongrifles.com
Almost no work to get it fitted but finishing is a lot more work.
Try: https://www.americanlongrifles.org/forum/ https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com https://www.longrifle.com/artisans-works/ https://bs-bp.forumotion.com
If you want to build from a blank look at going bald! You will pull your hair out trying to learn what is needed. Swamped barrel is best IMO. I prefer a Colerain Swamped, a Green Mountain Swamped or a Kibler/Green Mountain swamped barrel. Barrel must have square bottom rifling unless it is a Colerain. I prefer an appropriate Jim Chambers lock. No Roman Nose if you want a .50 or bigger as it hurts more as you age. I prefer more of a shotgun butt stock with little drop.
Last edited by warren5421; 10-01-2022 at 08:32 PM.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |