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Thread: 1892 in 357- extractor tension?

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Sep 2021
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    Kern County, CA.
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    1892 in 357- extractor tension?

    How stiff should the extractor on an 1892 be? This is a Rossi R92 in .357, but the principle is the same.


    My instinct is that the hook should hold an empty shell with no ejector installed, but that I should be able to use a screwdriver and push it enough to feel it move up.

    My instinct is that, if it is so stiff that I can't get the extractor to push up, it is too stiff, and this could lead to damaged extractor claws down the road.


    Am I on the right track?


    As for adjusting the extractor, I am familiar with bending extractors to add/reduce tension, like the 1911 [and have a 1911 extractor tool for that purpose].

    However, in looking at this design, it seems I can also remove a bit of metal from the bottom of the rear end of the extractor, which will create less pressure and leverage to force the claw down at the other end of the extractor.

    [plus, it was a REAL pain to get the extractor reinstalled- I had to use clamps to press it down and line up the holes.]

    Can anyone give any insight into proper extractor tension, how to measure and how to adjust, in the 1892 action design?

    Thank you in advance!
    The website brought me here for load data on long guns, but I also will be loading for handguns. Lately, I've found the muzzleloading section insightful. What a GREAT Site this is!

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    https://stevesgunz.com/ The guy that knows Rossi 92s. If I remember right, all I used was thumb pressure on top of the extractor to line up the pin hole

  3. #3
    Boolit Mold
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    Sep 2021
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    Kern County, CA.
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    Cool. That helps a LOT.

    I had to use a c-clamp to press and hold it down far enough to reinsert the pin. This was the original extractor too- not me trying to 'fit' a new one.
    The website brought me here for load data on long guns, but I also will be loading for handguns. Lately, I've found the muzzleloading section insightful. What a GREAT Site this is!

  4. #4
    Boolit Mold
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    Kern County, CA.
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    Ok. I watched the video and saw tips on adjusting the hook and sides so it moves/grabs smoothly. However, I either didn't pay attention while the video talked of tension or it didn't mention adjusting this in the modifications section.

    Today, I also went to a local shop to compare, where they had a new Rossi R92 .357 on the shelf. I was able to press HARD on the extractor tip with my thumb and it would flex up just a tad. On mine, I couldn't budge it even with a screwdriver shoving VERY firmly.

    So, I spent around 90 minutes tweaking it with files and my 1911 extractor tension tool.

    I dressed down the angled end piece away from the hook, the part that pushes up on the bolt to pivot the hook on the other end down.

    I adjusted a little, test fitted, and tried again.

    When I finally got it to where I could squeeze the extractor into the slot, align it and insert the pin with only my hands, I called it 'good'.

    I no longer need a c-clamp to get it in place for me to put the pin in.

    The tip/hook area is still firmer than on the R92 at the LGS, but I can push it up with a tool with a moderate amount of force. My thumb was so sore by that point that I wasn't having any luck budging it then.

    I tried a spent shell in the chamber. It pushed in and the extractor popped over it easier than before.

    Upon jacking the lever, the shell kicked out nicely [with Palo Verde .357 ejector spring installed].

    I think it is good to do, so I re-blued the areas I filed, to reduce the risk of rust, and will give it a go on the next range trip.
    The website brought me here for load data on long guns, but I also will be loading for handguns. Lately, I've found the muzzleloading section insightful. What a GREAT Site this is!

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2017
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    3,702
    first importance the whole length of the extractor from hook nose to the tip of its tail needs to be able to move freely in the slot in the bolt - dont want it "froze" anywhere at all.
    John Taylor has the tension about right but some of the Rossis much stiffer - ok so long as the stiffness is not from being too tight fit in the bolt slot - you can relieve tension by filing on the rear part behind the anchor pin (as you have done) - can (sometimes) rejuvenate an old worn one by driving a metal shim under the rear end.
    By jove I think you got it!

  6. #6
    Boolit Mold
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    Kern County, CA.
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    Thanks Indian Joe!

    Now I am running into another issue. As I lever rounds into the chamber, about 1 out of 3-4 of them will pause/stop and I have to take pressure off [at which point it seems to 'spring' up into a straight line] and then lever forward.

    In some reading, it seems too light of an ejector spring might not push the rear of the sell forward in time with the guides, and lead to this type of jam.

    Does this seem like I am on the right track?
    The website brought me here for load data on long guns, but I also will be loading for handguns. Lately, I've found the muzzleloading section insightful. What a GREAT Site this is!

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    Most lever guns have a problem with strait cases. I have found that polishing the chamber will make a big difference. The feed rails should start the cartridge on the right path but the chamber does the final alinement. Usually the jam as mentioned happens after the feed rails have done their job. I do have a 92 in the shop that has a feed rail problem and I have new feed rails to install.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Taylor View Post
    Most lever guns have a problem with strait cases. I have found that polishing the chamber will make a big difference. The feed rails should start the cartridge on the right path but the chamber does the final alinement. Usually the jam as mentioned happens after the feed rails have done their job. I do have a 92 in the shop that has a feed rail problem and I have new feed rails to install.
    this ---exacerbated by operating it slow (most times) ..... but .... going faster use finger tips on the lever not fist - just in case !
    I have had about ten 92's over the years, a worn 32/20 was the slickest of em and the 357 Rossi the pickiest on ammo. The LEE 158 grain flatpoint worked ok in full length cases - did not polish the chamber but proly should have.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check